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I have never bought into the notion of "static timing". The Atomic 4 should be timed the same as an automobile - with a strobe timing light. Every A 4 owner should have one. If you are a first timer at this find the roll pin that is on the end of the crankshaft and visible through the center...Last edited by hanleyclifford; 04-20-2024, 03:49 PM.
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One of many blocks and stuff I've collected. This is rather a late one....
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Try looking at the base of the block near where it joins the oil pan on the manifold side of the engine close to the flywheel housing.
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Getting 6 kts at 1900 rpm is good since that is probably the hull speed. At 1900 you are at just about max prop. I think you're fine. Just do a compression test once a year. Sounds like you are in good shape.
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Just a suggestion: when you get your new copper exchanger try to incorporate a petcock drain on the salt water side that will allow you to drain the water into the bilge after you shut down for the night. Copper is a noble metal but not as noble as the lead component in the solder that holds the exchangers...
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Have you performed the Thatch Modification? That is, reversing the hoses on top of the manifold. Keeping fluid in that manifold was always a problem until we started moving coolant uphill in the manifold....
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As Neil would say, "never underestimate the ability of water to run uphill". My sequence - start engine - open thru hull - enjoy engine running - close thru hull - shut down engine. Play it safe. Regarding exchangers: do you change zincs? Are your exchangers electrochemically isolated - that...
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Both Moyer Marine and this Forum are essential to the continuation of the Atomic 4 as a resource into the future. The loss of either would be a disaster.
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I think Neil is right. First thing is to make sure no leaks in the manifold. Check torque on 3 studs. Make sure all plugs got back in. Make sure scavenge tube is secure at both ends. Run a vacuum check if you can. Next make sure carb gasket(s) are sound and properly torqued. Make sure throttle turns...
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You may also have timing advanced too far. There is also the possibility of a vacuum leak.
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It sounds like your idle system is not functioning at all. You are "idling" on your main jet. The fact that you need to choke the carb to get started suggests a lean condition. Your idle adjustment screw should be set initially at around 1 1/4 turns out from seat. Remember, turning the screw...
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If you have the old Motorola you will see two wires on the regulator. One goes to coil+. Another will be grounded on the alternator case. There might be another marked "aux". All of these will come away as you remove the regulator from the back of the alternator. Behind that will be a wire...
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