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[hanleyclifford]

Unless the 2 head nuts are visibly loose I would not try to tighten them. There is too much danger of torquing the stud (with coarse threads) into the casting which is never a good idea. Instead remove the bracket and post a picture of what you see. Do this before you start scraping and cleaning.

[hanleyclifford]

What kills coils is voltage, not dwell. Check your voltage at coil+ engine running. Actually, dwell is also important because as it increases it makes the coil work harder. so to speak. EI will typically deliver 55 degrees while point ignition is in the thirties. Putting a resistor in front of coil+...

[hanleyclifford]

I would do a clean up of the shaft and packing box. Feel under the shaft for moisture or the absence of it. I like to feel some moisture, even at rest. I would also clean the bronze and then replace all those clamps. I personally use only one clamp on mine but keep it renewed often. Also, use MMO or...

[hanleyclifford]

1 drop every 4 seconds is fairly standard. Your clamps look a little corroded.I have a pair of dedicated wrenches for adjusting. If you only use the engine to get in and out of a marina this is no big deal but if you make long runs under power the box needs more attention. When I'm running the ICW...

[hanleyclifford]

If you are at all handy with tools etc (and it appears that you are) you should have a go at doing the job yourself. 10K is a high bar and you can get under it. It will depend a lot on how easy it is to get the engine out of the boat. First you need to establish that the block is good, and that can...

[hanleyclifford]

That cylinder 4 exhaust valve guide will be a challenge even for a machine shop. Ensure the block is otherwise healthy before proceeding.

[hanleyclifford]

It is a good practice to start the engine before opening the thru hull valve for the sea water, and it is smart to close the valve before shutting down the engine. Let the engine run for 5 to 10 seconds before shutdown.

[hanleyclifford]

I would be interested to learn how to remove and replace a valve guide with the engine still in the boat.

[hanleyclifford]

100% that valve stem is now united with the valve guide forever. Just hope the guide can be successfully driven out of the block leaving the block able to receive and hold a new guide. Get that engine out and on a bench. Rebuild time (hopefully).

[hanleyclifford]

It is possible to replace a valve without removing the engine if you have good access to the engine from the side. But in your situation it is a high probability that you will need to replace the valve guide. Time to pull the engine.

[hanleyclifford]

If you are the kind of guy who would draw to an inside straight you might try pulling the head on the semi remote possibility there is a breach between 1 and 2 in which case a head gasket might cure the problem, but if you are like the rest of us mortals pay attention to what Dave said.