Well guys I have benn contimplating this change for quite a while and finally did it. I have stated that when running without a t'stat that the bypassed water influences the temp sendor because there is no baffle, like the t'stat itself to keep the warm block and the cold bypassed water from mixing in the housing area which is also where the temp sendor is. I have run with the bypass valve for over 27 years now and was never really happy with how the temps adjusted and I blaimed it on the housing and sendor location. I have also wanted to do the "Tom Hatch common sence" fill from the bottom switch, this was not for control at all just a better way to fill the manifold.
What I have done is to plug the housing where the "bypass" water enters and reroute it to the manifold for mixing there instead. This eliminates the mixing in the housing and I now have far more control of my operating temps. I can run warmer and I also have far less heat rise after shutting down and rechecking the temp. I have now run this configuration for 18 plus hour and three 5 1/2 hour motoring trips to the island. I have set it for ariund 135 at 2200 RPM cruise and it idles at around 120. I can now run over 160 if I wish but I do like to run cool to keep the cabin temp down. Also in this configuration I can see temp rise within minutes of start up which was not the case before.
I know this is not considered proper as far as temps are concerned but now I can run warmer with far more control and the responce in temp change when adjusting is far more responsive.
This gives me far more confidence in the actual operating temp of the block and better control as the reading is far more accurate without the "cold" water mixing with the blocs warm in the sendor caavity.
I'm now open for hits and further opins from the forum, have at it guys!
Dave Neptune
What I have done is to plug the housing where the "bypass" water enters and reroute it to the manifold for mixing there instead. This eliminates the mixing in the housing and I now have far more control of my operating temps. I can run warmer and I also have far less heat rise after shutting down and rechecking the temp. I have now run this configuration for 18 plus hour and three 5 1/2 hour motoring trips to the island. I have set it for ariund 135 at 2200 RPM cruise and it idles at around 120. I can now run over 160 if I wish but I do like to run cool to keep the cabin temp down. Also in this configuration I can see temp rise within minutes of start up which was not the case before.
I know this is not considered proper as far as temps are concerned but now I can run warmer with far more control and the responce in temp change when adjusting is far more responsive.
This gives me far more confidence in the actual operating temp of the block and better control as the reading is far more accurate without the "cold" water mixing with the blocs warm in the sendor caavity.
I'm now open for hits and further opins from the forum, have at it guys!
Dave Neptune
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