Destiny gets new cutlass & ???

[hanleyclifford]

Coming north from Florida last spring I had to deal with vibration in the drive line especially at low rpms. While on the road in Georgia I bought the tools and parts thinking I might have to haul out somewhere and do the job but with careful throttling was able to nurse it back to Edgartown. Now the job must be done. Thought I might display the cool tool I cobbled using a 3/4" threaded galvanized rod and a coupling nut. The "slide hammer" also features an old shaft coupler. The split engine coupler makes the job easy. Next step will be to remove the shaft log to see if I can do the same trick with the bearing itself; sure would like to get it out in one piece for examination.

[Al Schober]

I must be missing something. I don't need a rig like that to pull my shaft. I just undo the coupling, back off the packing, and out she go!
Is the bearing worn? You don't have to pull the shaft to tell that! If it is worn, pulling the shaft is usually a first step in replacement.
Do you suspect a bent shaft? Check it in place with a couple of dial indicators. In particular, check both ends of the taper for the prop. If you get some 'funny' readings, try slacking off the bolts at the transmission coupling - there could be a 'kink' at the fwd end.

[hanleyclifford]

I must be missing something. I don't need a rig like that to pull my shaft. I just undo the coupling, back off the packing, and out she go!
Is the bearing worn? You don't have to pull the shaft to tell that! If it is worn, pulling the shaft is usually a first step in replacement.
Do you suspect a bent shaft? Check it in place with a couple of dial indicators. In particular, check both ends of the taper for the prop. If you get some 'funny' readings, try slacking off the bolts at the transmission coupling - there could be a 'kink' at the fwd end.

Hi Al - Yeah the bearing needs to be replaced and the shaft as well, I think. I couldn't pull the shaft from the coupler by hand (corrosion, I guess). But the tool worked well and I'm hoping to use it (as a threaded puller) to get the cutlass out neatly.

[ndutton]

Hanley,
Have you given any consideration to the active water flow system designed to enhance bearing life of deadwood mounted bearings? It was discussed in a previous thread, the pertinent paragraph repeated here:

Somewhat related was the setup I had on my full keel Westsail. I drilled and tapped a 1/2" pipe thread into the bronze shaft log behind the stuffing box and ahead of the bearing. I plumbed a Tee into the cooling water circuit and directed a portion of the water into the forward end of the shaft log forcing water through the bearing under pressure rather than simply immersing it. The system really worked great but when I tested it on the hard I had a bunch of "experts" running around waving their arms and yelling at me that I had a serious water breach in my driveline.

Imagine the puzzled looks and head scratching when I told them no, it's supposed to do that.

[hanleyclifford]

Hanley,
Have you given any consideration to the active water flow system designed to enhance bearing life of deadwood mounted bearings? It was discussed in a previous thread, the pertinent paragraph repeated here:

Interesting idea, Neil, especially for someone like me. My shaft log is actually schedule 80 PVC, 1 1/4" threaded into the stuffing box base at one end and the cutlass box at the other; made it myself. I would have to bore (and repair) a hole of sufficient size on top of the stern post, then tap and glue into the log. I did it (bore and plug) when I first got the boat for the purpose of treating the interior of the sternpost with raw linseed oil and cuprinol, but that was only a 1/2" hole. Gears thinking.

[romantic comedy]

Nice slide hammer Hanley.

I just make the threaded rod into a puller. It seems better to me. Less shock.

[ndutton]

I saw the idea on a Freya 39 and liked it so much I 'borrowed' the concept for my Westsail. I figured it would get your attention, one of those thinking outside the box things.

The Freya had some V berth upper cabinets that found their way aboard the Westy too. They're on the right side of this picture. Double berth to port, seat, writing desk and those upper cabinets to starboard. Later owners modified the seat into some sort of counter.

[hanleyclifford]

Nice slide hammer Hanley.

I just make the threaded rod into a puller. It seems better to me. Less shock.

I see your point. All it would take is a piece of well pipe and a few washers. Next time...thanks for the tip!

[hanleyclifford]

The Plans of Mice and Hanley

The new super duper puller failed to get the cutlass bearing out today due to the deteriorated condition of the cutlass. Just no edge for the washer to set up on so it dragged into the rubber and locked it up. So I was back to the old hacksaw and vicegrips drill (the indignity of it all). A lot of materal transferred from the bearing to the box at the forward end. Better not wait 20 years next time.

[Mo]

Nice work !!

Hanley,
Nice job. That looked like a bit of a Btch all right. I haven't done one. I have a very good friend that is a machinist and have seen him do a few at the club for people. Some can be real SOB's and others take no time ... depending on how rough conditions of everything is.

I was the oxy/acet torch "set up and pass it in guy" on one job...he had to heat everything under the cockpit to break the bolts and nuts etc for shaft removal. He wasn't overly impressed with that one...he spent an hour in there before I asked him if he wanted the iron axe.

If mine ever goes he'll get the call and the bottle of rum. This year I asked him to check mine. He walked past the back of my boat...gave prop a shake and said "no wear to speak of on that". He knows.

I needed one of my winches repaired after self tailing bolts broke off...then I twisted off easy out in there as well. I took both winches off and brought them to him...he calls me a day later...ready. He "made / machined" the new "SS shouldered" bolts for the self-tailers from looking at one of the good ones...the guy can do anything. He wouldn't even take a bottle of rum....he's always aboard for a nip anyway...good guy.

[hanleyclifford]

The odd thing about this job (so far) is that the cutlass bearing only showed about 1/16" to maybe 1/8" slop on the shaft. The cutlass actually looked good with uniform wear all around but the shaft showed significant wear. Also, the shaft showed the usual fine crud throughout the interior which suggests that maybe some kind of grit or pumice gets into the cutlass and wears the shaft. I think I'm going to go for that water injection system Neil suggested. Another possible source of grit is that muddy water I run in on the ICW.

[Mo]

The odd thing about this job (so far) is that the cutlass bearing only showed about 1/16" to maybe 1/8" slop on the shaft. The cutlass actually looked good with uniform wear all around but the shaft showed significant wear. Also, the shaft showed the usual fine crud throughout the interior which suggests that maybe some kind of grit or pumice gets into the cutlass and wears the shaft. I think I'm going to go for that water injection system Neil suggested. Another possible source of grit is that muddy water I run in on the ICW.

Probably no shame for it for the amount of time it has been in service.

[ndutton]

I think I'm going to go for that water injection system Neil suggested.

I figured you more than anyone would appreciate the charm of such a system. I remembered you are already diverting a portion of your raw water flow overboard so why not put it to good use?

We strut guys have good flow with the cutless exposed in the slipstream, not so much for full keelers.

[hanleyclifford]

Having cleaned the box of all the transferred metal the new cutlass was installed. The shaft (a piece of lightweight new shower pole) in the picture is actually used to test alignment or concentricity with the engine output coupling. As can be seen the engine is a little to port; however, this does not seem to have affected the wear pattern on the cutlass noticeably. I confirmed the slight lack of concentricity by rotating the shower pole by 1/4 turns and got similar results in each frame. The engine will be adjusted accordingly. It seems the shaft will be replaced.

[sastanley]

Hanley, is that 3rd picture the inside of the cutlass bearing laid open on a flat surface?