How to paint the engine

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • newenglander
    Frequent Contributor
    • Apr 2016
    • 7
    #1

    How to paint the engine

    There's some corrosion from a previous owner, and I want to paint the engine after I tune her up. Are there areas I SHOULDN'T take a wire brush to? And what are the places I absolutely must be careful to cover or avoid when painting?

    I've never painted an engine before. I have no idea what I'm doing.

    Thanks, guys. I'm in your hands.
    Tags: None
  • sastanley
    Afourian MVP
    • Sep 2008
    • 7030
    #2
    NE-er,

    I didn't know anything about painting motors and very little about the A-4 in general at the time. I wire-brushed everything and primed it. I did remove major components and took them home..you'll notice there are some shiny SS bolts that obviously are not painted.

    I started with this..





    Primer


    And these are pretty recent pics..



    -Shawn
    "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
    "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
    sigpic

    Comment

    • Al Schober
      Afourian MVP
      • Jul 2009
      • 2024
      #3
      Before you turn on that wire brush, get good safety glasses with side shields. A lot cheaper than having a surgeon taking pieces out of your cornea then polishing out the damage - first hand info, btw.
      The normal wire wheel on a 3/8" drill won't do it - you really need an angle grinder and a wire wheel where the strands are twisted into ropes. For primer, I've lately been using the 2 part epoxy barrier coat. A pita to mix, but does a great job of adhering to the base metal and providing a good grip for the top coat. Oh yeah, acts as a barrier too. Top coat is just for color and gloss - lately I've been using a light gray alkyd enamel.
      Before cleaning up and painting, see if you can identify any areas of heavy corrosion. Typical areas are a) under the water pump - rebuild/replace water pump, and b) under the water jacket cover plate - remove the bolts and install studs and nuts.
      It's always nice to remove the engine cover and say "Ahh" rather than "Uggh".

      Comment

      • newenglander
        Frequent Contributor
        • Apr 2016
        • 7
        #4
        I guess I just think about the engine as this very delicate thing that, if I get a fleck of paint into the wrong hole or polish up a bolt too much, will start leaking all over the place right before it seizes.

        So far I know I should be keeping primer and paint out of the cylinders. I see someone kept old spark plugs in during painting. But where else am I going to ruin things? Please don't assume I already know the obvious places. Assume nothing is obvious to me.

        (Side note: I like those photos. Can you explain that water cooling setup?)

        Comment

        • sastanley
          Afourian MVP
          • Sep 2008
          • 7030
          #5
          Al..good advice..All of my wire brush work was by hand. I never thought to put a machine run wire brush on the motor!

          NE-er, I went to fresh water cooling a couple years ago. I use the original gear driven pump for saltwater and an electric pump (only draws 3 amps) for antifreeze circulation. The heat exchanger I found on E-bay...If you want the easy ready-made route, Moyer sells a nice FWC kit.
          Last edited by sastanley; 04-25-2016, 10:46 PM.
          -Shawn
          "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
          "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
          sigpic

          Comment

          • Marty Levenson
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2004
            • 689
            #6
            yellow zinc chromate

            On my ill fated rebuild a couple years ago (culminated in a cracked block) I did a fair bit of research on the best way to paint the engine. If it is out of the boat good results will be way easier.

            Use whatever you need to to remove all paint. Final clean with brake cleaner. Dry with compressed air (no contamination from rags). Immediately spray with two or three thin coats of yellow zinc chromate (aka "cold galvinizing") before any microscopic rust starts to bloom. Let dry 24 hours. Spray two or three coats of your favourite engine enamel. Done. Save some paint to re-coat any scratches. My A4 looked amazing, and parts I use now are still like new.

            Good mask, rubber gloves and eye protection are mandatory.

            Hope that helps!
            Marty
            1967 Tartan 27
            Bowen Island, BC

            sigpic

            Comment

            • JOHN COOKSON
              Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
              • Nov 2008
              • 3501
              #7
              If you have any areas of heavy corrosion or rust blisters you can chip them away by tapping with a small hammer. If you have access that is.

              TRUE GRIT

              Comment

              • hanleyclifford
                Afourian MVP
                • Mar 2010
                • 6994
                #8
                Originally posted by sastanley View Post
                Al..good advice..All of my wire brush work was by hand. I never thought to put a machine run wire brush on the motor!

                NE-er, I went to fresh water cooling a couple years ago. I use the original gear driven pump for saltwater and an electric pump (only draws 3 amps) for antifreeze circulation. The heat exchanger I found on E-bay...If you want the easy ready-made route, Moyer sells a nice FWC kit.
                Shawn, you have one beautiful engine - and I'm hanging out with that header tank.

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...
                X