Just one thing to add. After the rewire it may be wise to check your voltage at coil positive. This is even more important if you have EI. I had to do some on the fly rewiring due to a failed 4-way switch and ended up eliminating several connections and several feet of wire. Within a week I had a coil failure. By eliminating the wire/connections I had lowered the resistance in the circuit and raised the voltage at coil + to a unhealthy level. This was before the story broke about EI/coil failure/voltage etc and has been rectified thanks to that thread.
Dan S/V Marian Claire
I just redid my wiring up until the DC panel. I have yet gotten to the mess in the engine compartment or the mess behind the engine instrument panel.
I agree the correct tools are important. A good wire stripper and I would suggest a ratcheting crimper. I got these two pieces a few years ago and it makes getting positive crimps a breeze.
Look at his photos of a dissected terminal and you can see the wire and terminal get fused together when crimped properly.
I would study the proper wiring diagram and know what is supposed to go where then leave the wires in place and trace them to see if they are correct before replacing the wires individually. At least that is my plan.
Here is an article with the Moyer Wiring Schematic for the engine and the instruments.
Looking good jerry...what's the rating on the "ignition" switch? I am ready to lose my key as I see no real reason for it to be there. It won't keep somebody from stealing the boat, and if they steal it, well, I might be better off.
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
sigpic
Looking good jerry...what's the rating on the "ignition" switch? I am ready to lose my key as I see no real reason for it to be there. It won't keep somebody from stealing the boat, and if they steal it, well, I might be better off.
Hi Shawn-
I'm not sure of the "rating" for the push button ignition switch.
BUT, I got it from Moyer.
Yeah..the bat handle!! I assume that has to carry all the engine running loads. The push button would only need to handle the starter loads to the solenoid, right?
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
sigpic
Yeah..the bat handle!! I assume that has to carry all the engine running loads. The push button would only need to handle the starter loads to the solenoid, right?
Right on the starter, but on ignition I have no other loads on that so that the voltage to coil + is easier to control.
Hi...i am a new user here. In my case i am going to simply redo the whole wiring harness at one time to make it neat and tidy. As a shameless plug I'll be getting Moyers harness kit to simplify the acquisition process.There is a wiring PDF around the forum that shows the wiring and the jumpers from gauge to gauge, etc - that might be of help to see as an overview for you.
Talking of books, I have a copy of The Marine Electrical and Electronics Bible
(Payne) first edition 1954, my edition 1994. Pretty comprehensive. You may find it on amazon secondhand - thats where I buy most of my books
"Halcyon" 36' custom sloop. 8 tons. Glass over strip plank mahoghany. Spruce mast and booms, launched 1969. Original A4.
Comment