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Originally posted by lat 64
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I have a couple of short pieces of rubber hose that I slide over the rod bolts during assembly. Reduces the chance of dinging the crank to zero.
Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DP -
Over the past few days I've spent a lot of time cleaning parts. I started by power washing the block, manifold, and head. I blasted lots and lots of crud out of the water passages and after much scrubbing, the black stuff is gone and water flows cleanly throughout.
There was a lot of very tenacious crud on the valves, which I attacked with a wire brush and some scotchbrite.
One question, how can I determine the condition of the valve guides? I'm about ready to fire off a parts order to MMI, but I'm not sure if I need to include valve guides.Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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You need to determine the ID of the guides. One way to do this is to try inserting drill bits from a 129 piece set. The box should indicate the sizes in thousandths. I believe the unreamed guide should be (new) .3125". Both Moyer and Hess call for .003"-.004" clearance. It really doesn't matter how you get to that spec, whether by increasing valve stem (new valve) or decreasing ID of guide (new guide). But be careful - if you order the pre-reamed guides from the catalogue you may find that old and otherwise sound valves will no longer work. I recommend you buy unreamed standard guides and then order the reamer of your choice from Goodson. First determine if you are going to re-use your valves and order your reamer accordingly.Comment
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Ok, my valve guides are 0.316" ( a letter "O" drill ) and the valve stems are 0.310". That's a bit outside of the 0.003"-0.004" tolerance, but not much.Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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IMO .006" is too much. I think you are going to need new valve guides but I suggest you get the unreamed guides and you may then be able to use most of your valves. The driver and reamer can both be ordered from Goodson. http://www.Goodson.comComment
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Nothing much to take photos of recently, as the big parts are off at the machine shop. After conferring with the machinist, we've decided that the crank does not need grinding, the cylinders do not need boring, and the pistons and valves are still fit for service. We are honing the cylinders, putting in new valve guides and re-cutting the valve seats. I'm going to continue with the current main bearings, but I will replace the rod bearings. I haven't called MMI about the rod bearings yet, but their web site tells me the standards are out of stock. Anyone have another source, just in they aren't available from MMI?Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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I'll have to dig through my e-mails from a couple months back. I did a bunch of research on the main bearings. Turns out Federal Mogul was moving its plant from the U.S. overseas, so production of those bearings was shut down for quite some time. Thus the shortage of availability.
But I did find a seller who had an eBay store, who said he had them in stock. Unfortunately, by the time he finally returned my e-mail, I already had bought them from an outfit up in Wisconsin, and had paid about $50 more than the eBay guy wanted for his.
In any case, although they used to be priced around $160-180 or so a while back, you'd be pretty lucky to find them that cheap anymore these days, it seems. I saw prices over $300 for a set. Trying to remember what I paid - I think I paid something around $230 for the set.- Bill T.
- Richmond, VA
Relentless pursuer of lost causesComment
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I picked my A4 parts up from West Amity Machine Shop today. This place was very cool, I wish I could show some photos from the inside, but the owner wasn't there to ask.
The head was resurfaced.
The block was resurfaced too, new valve seats were cut, and new valve guides pressed into place.
The crank just got polished, nothing else needed.
Now I need to paint the block and head, and then I can start the re-assembly.Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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If you had the shop hone the bores, then clean the cylinder bores until the towel comes up clean with NO gray residue. This will take a while. That gray residue is grit from honing. It must be CLEAN
Light oil will loosen the grit from the cylinder wall and protect the iron from rust.
Keep posting,
rsigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1
"Since when is napping doing nothing?"Comment
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Yes, the shop told me the same thing. They suggested using a toilet brush, which seems like just the tool for the job.Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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She's back together. It took longer than I expected, as the cleaning, de-greasing, and painting was a lot more work than it looked.
Assembly went smoothly and I added a few upgrades from MMI, including electronic ignition, remote greasing for the water pump, and an oil change kit. I'm also going to add a FWC kit, but haven't decided to go with a mechanical or electric pump.
I turned it over with the starter and had good oil pressure, ~20psi. Next, I hooked up a fuel tank, connected a wire from the battery + to the coil + and tried to start her up.
I was rewarded with just a few puffs of smoke from the exhaust and a few more from the carburetor. Hm, seems like the timing is off, but that can't be because I'm 100% that the timing marks were aligned correctly, and I was careful to set TDC and align the distributor correctly.
Crank her again......more of the same. Okay, I know the cam is right, so the distributor must be off. Not sure how I messed that up, but pull it out, rotate 180 degrees, tighten it down again, crank her over....
Vroom!
Pretty exciting! Video tomorrow.Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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Damn hanley, you sure can see! You can be a lookout on my boat anytime.Originally posted by hanleyclifford View PostComment
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The little copper fuel line from the pump to the carb...I took mine, and the L fittings off, and replaced the L's with stright fittings, fuel hose, and fuel filter in the center of the hose...I like it much better.Originally posted by Loki9 View PostShe's back together. It took longer than I expected, as the cleaning, de-greasing, and painting was a lot more work than it looked.
Assembly went smoothly and I added a few upgrades from MMI, including electronic ignition, remote greasing for the water pump, and an oil change kit. I'm also going to add a FWC kit, but haven't decided to go with a mechanical or electric pump.
I turned it over with the starter and had good oil pressure, ~20psi. Next, I hooked up a fuel tank, connected a wire from the battery + to the coil + and tried to start her up.
I was rewarded with just a few puffs of smoke from the exhaust and a few more from the carburetor. Hm, seems like the timing is off, but that can't be because I'm 100% that the timing marks were aligned correctly, and I was careful to set TDC and align the distributor correctly.
Crank her again......more of the same. Okay, I know the cam is right, so the distributor must be off. Not sure how I messed that up, but pull it out, rotate 180 degrees, tighten it down again, crank her over....
Vroom!
Pretty exciting! Video tomorrow.Comment
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[YOUTUBE]sBtUGpTOE2s[/YOUTUBE]
It starts right up and runs (what a sweet sound), but the idle circuit doesn't seem to be working. After the video, I took the carb off and blew all the passages out again. I didn't notice any obstructions, but it doesn't take much. I'll try running it again later today if I have the time.
One other minor issue, some of the bolts on the water jacket side plate are leaking water even though I permatexed the heck out of them.Jeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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Originally posted by Loki9 View Post
Loki - were you running the motor under water pressure from a household hose attached to the motor?
If so...it's likely the municipal water pressure was far higher than that generated by the engine water pump and is showing leaks that would not occur during normal engine running conditions.
Ford blue eh?
Cheers!
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