Started her up today!!

[Ironworker]

Well, I finally got around to hitting the GO button today and much to my surprise it started after about 3 seconds of cranking. Maybe I am able to do this after all.

Got up to 150 and torqued the heads, noticed the temps kept going up to about 190 and remembered to turn the water hose on to keep the bucket full and temp immediately went to 140 and stayed there. (WHEW!!!)

Shut it down and let it cool. Started again ad went through the process again and looked for leaks. No oil anywhere and water coming out of the front thermo stud and first and second head studs along the manifold.

One more cool down and torque and restart and the thermo stud and first stud still have water coming up through them.


Will this go away as the gaskets seat in or do I need to look at fixing something?

I have never overhauled an engine before and don't know what to expect.

Thanks

[Dave Neptune]

Leaks

Ironworker, are you sure it is the stud leaking or is it the Thermostat housing? If all is well and the surfaces were clean and flat they shouldn't leak.
That's why I like to use the Permatex Av. grade on the studs and around the stud holes on the headgasket. It can be very difficult to clean in those areas and they tend to rust out requireing a bit of sealer(not silicone or RTV).
You can still try some from the outside (the top of the head) to stop the leak however the stud will eventually rust and perhaps cause problems next time you have to take the head off.
I'd try to seal on the top and perhaps a re-do as a winter project.

Dave Neptune

[Ironworker]

Dave, it is coming up between the stud and the nut. The engine is on a stand in the garage and I can redo now while it is easy to get to. Do I use the sealer around the stud holes between each gasket and the corresponding metal surfaces or use it on the course threads like you would pipe dope? I am a bit confused as to how the water can come up through the stud and not be causing problems elsewhere.
Thanks

[hanleyclifford]

The gasket is preventing lateral migration of the coolant. It leaks from the threads and just follows the stud up to the nut and enters the threads at the nut. I like to goop the threads with heavy permatex. If you are still in the shop might be a good idea to back up and do while the doing is easy.

[rigspelt]

I am a bit confused as to how the water can come up through the stud and not be causing problems elsewhere.

I haven't rebuilt an A4 block, so my knowledge is theoretical. Others will check me if I get this wrong. What initially confused me about coolant circulation and the studs is that the bottom end of the studs, the threaded end, screws into a space that carries coolant, so the thread seal has to be secure enough to keep coolant from leaking up, past the threads and up along the hole the stud sits in. The coolant corrodes both the threads at the bottom of the stud, and the nut and threads at the top. Which is why MMI recommends checking the number of threads left on the ends of the studs during a rebuild.

Right?

[hanleyclifford]

Right. And checking that number of threads reveals information about the casting AND the stud.

[Ironworker]

Thanks guys. I was beginning to wonder how the water could come up the stud. I can't find any Permatex Aviation but the guy a Auto Zone gave me another Permatax product called Indian Head gasket shellac compound and said it would without a doubt stop any thing from migrating through threads. The bottle lists being resistant to water, steam, petroleum products, and antifreeze. I had never heard of it but there was a fairly large area on the shelf for it and it was 3/4 empty. The guy said they sell ALOT of it. Anyone here know anything about it? I also have some really good pipe dope that will withstand some pretty heavy industrial use.

[sastanley]

The Aviation Brand is Permatex #3..i found it at my local Napa. #2, is thick and in a tube.>I used it to seal my exhaust hot section threads (even though it is NPT tapered threads). #1 is also in a tube but runny...kinda like the #3.

They are all rated for 500 degrees + I think. The #3 comes in a can with a paint brush like old school contact cement. I like to paint my gaskets with the #3 since i have some, but it smells bad and it sticks to EVERYTHING!

[Mark S]

Iron,

Indian Head is good stuff for gaskets under thermostat heads, carburetors, and so forth. I've used it a lot for such applications. I have no idea how suitable it is for your situation. Give it a shot.

Mark

[roadnsky]

Just for the record, if you have the time to wait and can't find it locally, MMI sells the Aviation #3 (Product No. - OHSP_04_80)

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=OHSP&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html

I actually found it in my town at AutoZone, where they have all three Permatex's.
BUT, that store is a block from the lake and they do a lot of Marine business too...

[Ironworker]

Indian Head is #5J and is in a can with a brush, reddish brown in color and doesn't smell a thing like apple pie!!!! I will try it tonight and report back tomorrow.

[Ironworker]

Check back Saturday evening for results.

Life happens!

[Ironworker]

Indian Head works. I put some on the threads and screwed the stud in, removed, reapplied, for a total of 3 applications until the stud started to feel snug. I don't know if it mattered but I let it sit for about 30 min while I played with a sand blaster before firing it up. It worked like a charm.

[Mark S]

Love that stuff. Good to know of further applications for it. Congratulations!

Mark