Shifting cable issue

[ejay]

I have a Cat 30 and the shifting cable is attached to the lever at the lower hole on the port side, not the upper hole on the starboard side. As you can see in the picture, the clevis is not optimal, so I would like to change it, but my other concern is that there is not mounting bracket for the shifting cable, probably because the cable is beneath reversing gear cover plate, which is where such brackets are usually attached.

Also, I think there is an oil leak coming from the site where the shifting apparatus enters the reversing gear housing. The picture shows shiny oil.

The only problems I have with the reversing gear is the lack of an easy neutral position, otherwise forward and reverse work well for me.

So my question is about installing a bracket for the cable and where I should look for the oil leak.

Thanks!

[hanleyclifford]

https://moyermarine.com/product/aft-housing-shifting-lever-oil-seal-orev_07_124/

[ndutton]

The Catalina 30 does not have a shift bracket per se. Instead the outer sheath of the shift cable is clamped to the underside of the cabin sole next to the stuffing box access at the foot of the companionway ladder. See picture.

[Al Schober]

The shifter cross shaft in the reversing gear has a seal at each end.

https://moyermarine.com/product/aft-housing-shifting-lever-oil-seal-orev_07_124/

I recommend you also change the cross shaft for the nice one that Moyer offers:

https://moyermarine.com/product/reversing-gear-cross-shaft-stainless-steel-orev_23-1_346/

The shift cable will only work properly if the jacket is secured at both ends.

[ejay]

Not enough Travel?

I measured the travel distance and it is 2 inches max from full reverse to full forward with the cable attached to the lower hole of the shift lever. I have yet to open up the gear cover, but is that 2" travel distance adequate for my Cat 30 set up?

[Al Schober]

If you don't know whether you have a transmission issue or a problem with the linkage, I recommend the following:
With the engine off, remove the reversing gear cover. As you (or a helper) move your shift lever, you'll see the shifter cone around the main shaft move fwd (towards the engine block) and aft.
With the shifter in fwd gear, you should see the cone move AFT and engage the three fingers that engage the fwd clutch pack. The fingers should go over the hump in the cone and kinda snap into place. If this doesn't happen, you can try loosening the adjustment for the fwd clutch pack and try again. If it still doesn't go, your shift linkage is faulty or out of adjustment. Once you get it to shift fully into fwd, you can re-tighten the clutch pack.
Move the shifter to the reverse position - you'll see the cone move fwd. It should almost come into contact with the notched ring for adjusting the fwd clutch pack. 1/32 or 1/16 of clearance is fine. If the cone contacts the notched ring, you should tighten the reverse adjusting nut. If your clearance is more than 1/16", try backing off the reverse adjusting nut a few flats and try again. If you can't get the cone to move this far fwd, your shifter is likely faulty/out of adjustment. You can alway tighten up the reverse adjustment.
Making adjustments to the reversing gear to compensate for a faulty shifter is futile and likely to damage the reversing gear. At best, you'll have little/no neutral band.

[hanleyclifford]

It is very important that the cable sheathing be solidly attached at both ends; that is, at the shifting lever and at the gear box. Otherwise you could be "wasting" cable motion which is limited, and the more so if you are using the outer hole in the gear box lever. If you move to the inner hole you will get more effective travel, but at the cost of mechanical advantage. Since you have indicated that you have difficulty getting to neutral it is possible that someone adjusted your gear box too "tight" with no good sweet spot for neutral because there was not enough effective cable travel available. Sloppy connections can also rob you of effective travel, and I don't like the look of that brass cap screw securing the yoke to the lever. Better to use a ss clevis pin. Examine your system to see how far you must push the shifting lever before effective movement of the cable begins.

[ejay]

Thanks for all the input. I was able to open the gear box and now my question is regarding the cork gasket. From the picture you can see the old one is quite friable and stuck to box. I am reluctant to start scraping away because I dont want bits and pieces to fall in the box. Any suggestions?

Also, I have new seals and a new cross bar from MMI, but I have not found a resource yet for how to remove the existing crossbar from the yoke and replace.

[hanleyclifford]

I would not worry about that gasket. It looks like it can be reused; just apply a generous grease coating on re-installation of the cover. The larger question is: do you have enough clearance athwartships to remove that shaft in a straight line?

[ejay]

Cross Shaft Replacement

I am about ready to replace the leaky oil seals, the cross shaft and the clevis. I have searched through the MMI manual and online for instructions to no avail, however I did find some old threads of relevance on the forum. Here are some remaining questions:

1-Is the cross shaft anchored at the yoke in some fashion, or will it pull through easily? The picture in the manual appears to show set screws on either side of the yoke?

2-Is the connection to the lever the only use of the half round key? Or are there other spots?

3-Can I just place the oil seals by hand and then slide the new cross shaft through easily?

Thanks!

[hanleyclifford]

I am about ready to replace the leaky oil seals, the cross shaft and the clevis. I have searched through the MMI manual and online for instructions to no avail, however I did find some old threads of relevance on the forum. Here are some remaining questions:

1-Is the cross shaft anchored at the yoke in some fashion, or will it pull through easily? The picture in the manual appears to show set screws on either side of the yoke?

2-Is the connection to the lever the only use of the half round key? Or are there other spots?

3-Can I just place the oil seals by hand and then slide the new cross shaft through easily?

Thanks!

1 - Note the shaft has cutouts for 3 keys, one at the shifter lever and 2 at the yoke. The set screws must be loosened and you might have to back off the reverse adjuster to get that tang out of the way.
2 - see #1. You will drive the shaft out and the 2 keys will remain in the shaft likely driving the seal out if it is not already out.
3 - one seal can go in first but hold off on the other until the shaft is in, While the shaft and seals are out get the holes as super clean as you can and then grease the holes.

[ejay]

I would imagine the shaft will come out towards the port side where there is clearance. I guess I will need to use a small hammer to drive it out from the starboard side?

[hanleyclifford]

I would imagine the shaft will come out towards the port side where there is clearance. I guess I will need to use a small hammer to drive it out from the starboard side?

I hope you have established that you have sufficient clearance athwartshipe to remove that shaft in a straight line. Guard against dropping anything into the casing. I was looking for those keys on the MM site and I don't see them. Don't let them drop if they are loose. Only very light tapping from the stb side should be required.

[joe_db]

Have we got the cable off and determined what exactly is locked up yet?

[ejay]

I made the attempt at pulling the cross shaft without success. I was able to disengage the reversing bar and loosen both set screws, but light tapping with a hammer on the port side of the cross shaft did move the shaft out towards the starboard side at all. I decided to button it up before I created a bigger problem. Am I missing anything, or do I just need a bigger hammer?

Also, my shifting lever was cut short by a PO, likely due to limited clearance of the exhaust pipe in the Cat 30, is this really necessary? Does anyone with a Cat 30 have the shifting lever intact?