This post is meant to stir the collective knowledge bank for approval/disapproval status for a possible modification.
The quote and photo below are from RobH2 and have intrigued me for quite a while. I too have been battling high temperatures but my ducks have been recently aligned and I think I'm down to some fine tuning in order to get this system to work better.
Jude's cooling: FWC with electric circulating pump on the fresh water side. With no thermostat (I have the older Dole thermostat mounted at the manifold exit) cooling is sufficient (150°F when warm) but is too hot for comfort with the thermostat in place (190°F when warm).
It seems that the thermostat is just forcing too much water through the bypass loop at high temperatures. RobH2's modification should let more water run through the block at all temperatures, thereby lowering maximum temperature as a function of the number/size of additional holes in the thermostat flange.
How does this sound?
From RobH2 (here's a link to his original post):
The quote and photo below are from RobH2 and have intrigued me for quite a while. I too have been battling high temperatures but my ducks have been recently aligned and I think I'm down to some fine tuning in order to get this system to work better.
Jude's cooling: FWC with electric circulating pump on the fresh water side. With no thermostat (I have the older Dole thermostat mounted at the manifold exit) cooling is sufficient (150°F when warm) but is too hot for comfort with the thermostat in place (190°F when warm).
It seems that the thermostat is just forcing too much water through the bypass loop at high temperatures. RobH2's modification should let more water run through the block at all temperatures, thereby lowering maximum temperature as a function of the number/size of additional holes in the thermostat flange.
How does this sound?
From RobH2 (here's a link to his original post):
I noticed that the thermostat has a hole in it. I guess that's to let water through the engine in case you forget and start the engine with the bypass closed and the thermostat cold and shut. So I just drilled another hole with a 9/64" bit. If no thermostat is in place the engine is too cold and with the thermostat installed engine is too hot, why not make the thermostat less effective. The 9/64" bit was just what looked right to me...no science involved there.
Result?..and I ran full throttle in open water for 2 hours in 95 degree weather. The engine runs at 170 degrees with the bypass 1/2 open. If I close the bypass the temp drops to about 152 degrees or so. If I open the bypass all the way it runs at about 182 degrees. In my book, that's perfect. I think the aftermarket thermostats are the problem.
Result?..and I ran full throttle in open water for 2 hours in 95 degree weather. The engine runs at 170 degrees with the bypass 1/2 open. If I close the bypass the temp drops to about 152 degrees or so. If I open the bypass all the way it runs at about 182 degrees. In my book, that's perfect. I think the aftermarket thermostats are the problem.
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