Wire Labelling

[RUSSELL]

Yes, exactly what I envision. Thanks!

[RUSSELL]

Well, I worked on my re-wiring this weekend.

Wiring stuff from genuinedealz.com worked great - good price, no shipping charges.


My efforts with the large cables (i.e., battery cables) sucked. I could not get the connectors to crimp, and when I tried to solder I made a mess – melted insulation, cold joint, etc. I was trying to do this in the boat – that was a mistake. I am going to cut those ends off and try again, but at the workbench. I welcome any suggestions or hints on how to do these well.

Maybe I should just order them already made up?

I have a crimping tool and the smaller connectors - 10 AWG or 12 AWG – worked well.

I like my heat shrink and labeling. I am using a heat gun. You have to let the heat gun warm up, but I like controlling the temperature. First, I use a black heat shrink. Then I trim my little label from the sheet I printed; e.g., “TO: BILG 1”. I then use the clear heat shrink and slide over the little label placed on the black heat shrink and cook down with the heat gun. Very easy to read, like the examples above. I think I will like a lot when done - and certainly an improvement from what I started with (nothing was labeled at all).

Finally a question regarding wire loom - I have three bundles of wires (will end up with four bundles when the EWS is installed) going to the control panel in the cockpit. I wrapped with electrical tape to make them easy to handle. My intention is to encase the wire bundles in split wire loom to protect the wire bundles from scuffing, etc. Since there will never be any sun shining on these wire bundles, can't I just use the split loom commonly found at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store? Is there any difference in quality of this stuff?

Thanks!!!

[hanleyclifford]

For battery cable work you need a Nicro Press tool. I bought one for rigging repair but have found it's best use is making up battery cables.

[smosher]

cable markers

I use tywrap cable markers. Cheap and easy to find

[BunnyPlanet169]

Russel - I used the 'hammer' crimping tool but used a small bench vise to do the squeezing, and crimped twice per connection. That was on 2AWG, I wouldn't do more. It worked, but it's not optimal by far.

If you can borrow or rent a real crimping tool, it's WAY better - I cannot overstate this - ask at your local electrical store if they do rentals. The die is square, and gives a great crimp on all sides. Professional tool, professional results.

Do a pull test to check your work. Make up an end or two, fix it to something, and pull on the other end. You can pull out 18 or 16AWG crimps without too much effort (20 or 30 pounds). You should not be able to pull out a 2AWG battery lug (>150 pounds). If a crimp pulls apart in your hands, the die is not set correctly. Loose connections = higher resistance and eventual failure.

I hate electrical tape. Hate it. Sticky mess when (not if) you have to do any work. Use the split loom. Use tie wraps.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I hate electrical tape. Hate it. Sticky mess when (not if) you have to do any work. .

+1 Ditch the tape. Ues cable ties.

If you have trouble soldering do this: Dip the wire in soldering paste and heat it up. Do it again. Tin the wire. Use a piece of sandpaper to make the connector shiny and bright. For a battery connector a piece of sandpaper or emery cloth on a dowel (such as a pencil) will work. Crimp the wire to the connector for a good mechanical fit. Do not depend on the solder to hold the wire to the connector. Hold the connector in a vice or vice grip pliers. This will act as a heat sink.
Use a concentrated heat source ie a torch. Heat the connection evenly before applying the solder. You'll get the feel for it.
Use 60:40 high tin low melting temp solder. It's worth the extra money many times over.

TRUE GRIT

[RUSSELL]

Thanks, guys.

The electrical tape is solely for ease of handling and sliding around when installing. Periodic tie-wraps will hold together when placed in final position and installed; will be encased in split loom. I have a supply of the stainless steel "loops" from McMaster-Carr - the kind where a fastener goes through each end and it loops around whatever you are trying to hold and is encased in a rubber cushion material. These "loops" will affix the wire bundles to the boat.

Does it make any difference what split loom I use? Automotive OK?

I got a crimping tool for up to 10 AWG size connectors. It worked very well; nice, even squeeze on each side, very tight. I could not pull apart using just my hands.

I'll be practicing soldering again coming up. Thanks for the tips.

[edwardc]

For smaller wires, up to #12, I use a $15 ratcheting hand crimping tool:

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html

I tried one of the hammer/vise crimping tools for #2 battery cable, but was unhappy with the crimps. Couldn't reliably make a good crimp with it.

I ended up buying a hydraulic hand crimp tool with a whole bunch of dies from Harbor Freight when it went on sale:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

This thing is easy to use, and makes crimps that are strong enough to hang from! I've been very happy with it.

[BunnyPlanet169]

Ed: I wish I had found that hydraulic tool.... The AMP crimpers I was looking at were 4 times as much and I suffered through with the hammer version....

Russell: IMHO, forget soldering - the 2AWG stuff won't come out nearly as well as $60 spent on a good crimper. You'll be way happier.

[hanleyclifford]

Check this out: http://www.e-rigging.com/hand-swagers

[RUSSELL]

Wow, thanks guys. I think a new crimping tool is in my (near) future.

I was about to go the made to order route; didn't really seem to cost that much. I would rather make mine as then I can do the routing and get the length just right. It seems no matter how hard I try when I measure I just cannot capture the length of all the little twists and turns properly.

[RUSSELL]

Holy crimper, Batman!! Hold the connector, Boy Wonder!!

I stopped by HB on the way home on Tuesday night; I now have the hydraulic crimper Ed (Edwardc) mentioned.

This evening I did four 2 AWG, one 4 AWG, and two 8 AWG connectors. It works great. Amazingly even compression. I am not going to solder - even the 2 AWG - you would have to see these crimps to believe it, but they are great connections and are not coming apart.

Thanks, Ed!!

[sastanley]

Russell...we can see them..take some pictures and post them!!

BP, I went the 'hammer crimper' route too..I wish I had the Ed C crimper-o-matic!!

[edwardc]

Holy crimper, Batman!! Hold the connector, Boy Wonder!!

I stopped by HB on the way home on Tuesday night; I now have the hydraulic crimper Ed (Edwardc) mentioned.

This evening I did four 2 AWG, one 4 AWG, and two 8 AWG connectors. It works great. Amazingly even compression. I am not going to solder - even the 2 AWG - you would have to see these crimps to believe it, but they are great connections and are not coming apart.

Thanks, Ed!!

You're quite welcome!

The tool generates 16000 lbs of pressure, and essentially squeezes out all of the spaces between the strands, producing a vapor-tight connection.

Having the correct tool for a job is such a joy.

[BunnyPlanet169]

Having the correct tool for a job is such a joy.

And once knowing this, a lifelong addiction of acquisition!