I have always been able to get this gear off with a little coaxing but I have acquired another unit that is really stubborn. I don't want to damage anything. Does anyone have any advice or experience removing these gears? Is a special tool or puller available?
Removing 2:1 Pinion Gear
Collapse
X
-
Is the nut still on? Looks like a castle nut.. confusing.
That reminds me of the gear on a VW crank. We just used a puller. Is there room for a puller arm? If they usually come off, heat should do the trick, I would assume.
Interesting, with the vw gear, when I put it back on, I heated it on an electric hot plate. It slid right on.
Not sure if any of that helps.
-
-
That is a castle nut, partly turned off. There isn't enough surface at the end of the gear teeth to set a puller arm and besides I'd be afraid of damaging the teeth. I would try an automotive type bearing separator to separate the gear flange from the bearing but the flange is recessed so much that the separator cannot be fitted; besides, that would only move the thing 1/4" at best (though I suppose if I could get it that far I could get the puller arm in behind the flange.) I am considering setting a puller into the mounting plate holes and pulling the plate, bearing and gear off in one shot. What do you think?
Comment
-
-
I like the idea of pulling the plate, bearing, and gear in one shot. I think I'd leave the nut in place but backed off 1/4 inch - bear on the nut rather than the end of the shaft. I'd also want to spread the load out into the plate - don't just pull on two opposite holes.
I assume you're doing this to replace the bearing, so possible damage to the bearing isn't an issue. You may also want to consider taking the bearing apart in place - remove the rivets in the ball retainers then let all the balls go to one side. It should come apart - after all, that's how they go together. Well, looking at the photo again, there may not be enough room there to get the retainer (or balls) out past the gear.
Comment
-
-
I agree with "romantic comedy" on this. A lil heat can go a long way to loosening any piece stuck on a shaft, just don't get to aggressive by getting to hot.
Trix fer mechanicx~put the whole unit in a cold freezer until ready to apply the heat, then apply the heat starting from the outside in. The cold will help keep the shaft chilled (cold and small) while the heat on the gear expands it for easier removal.
Dave Neptune
Comment
-
-
Good Tip Here
Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostTrix fer mechanicx~put the whole unit in a cold freezer until ready to apply the heat, then apply the heat starting from the outside in. The cold will help keep the shaft chilled (cold and small) while the heat on the gear expands it for easier removal.
Dave Neptune
TRUE GRIT
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View PostSounds like baked Alaska.
TRUE GRIT
Seriously, heat does work well that way. I helped resleeve a few small engines. We would put the jug in the oven and the new sleeve in the freezer. Sometimes it would drop right in.
I have some history with this nut:
Rsigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1
"Since when is napping doing nothing?"
Comment
-
Comment