Changing antifreeze without starting engine.

[Joel H.]

Excuse me if this is a stupid question!

I'm new to the A4 and pressed for time.

The P.O. winterized my boat using -50 RV antifreeze. After taking possession of the boat I found out that people around here (Chicago) use -100. I want to, at least, boost it by getting some -100 into the block. I can't easily restart the engine ( no readily available water and water pump cover and impeller removed). Could I not just disconnect the outlet hose from the exhaust and pour some -100 into the block that way? I figure I can put a catch pan under the open water pump and let it pour until the pink stuff (-50) becomes blue stuff (-100).
Again, If there is something that I'm stupidly missing I'm sorry, but I'm pressed for time. I am leaving Fri. for a 10 day vacation and worried/paranoid.

[edwardc]

This should work _IF_ you remove the thermostat, replace the empty housing, and clamp-off the bypass hose. Otherwise, the closed thermostat will bypass tha new antifreeze around the block and only the manifold will get it.

[Joel H.]

Take out the thermostat, of course!
I need to see what the P.O. has in there anyway.
I'll get to it in the a.m.
Thanks for reply Edward.
Joel H.

[67c&ccorv]

Excuse me if this is a stupid question!

I'm new to the A4 and pressed for time.

The P.O. winterized my boat using -50 RV antifreeze. After taking possession of the boat I found out that people around here (Chicago) use -100. I want to, at least, boost it by getting some -100 into the block. I can't easily restart the engine ( no readily available water and water pump cover and impeller removed). Could I not just disconnect the outlet hose from the exhaust and pour some -100 into the block that way? I figure I can put a catch pan under the open water pump and let it pour until the pink stuff (-50) becomes blue stuff (-100).
Again, If there is something that I'm stupidly missing I'm sorry, but I'm pressed for time. I am leaving Fri. for a 10 day vacation and worried/paranoid.

I would like to know why boat owners are putting RV potable water system antifreeze in an engine like the A4?

(I am making the assumption that is the antifreeze you are referring to?)

[Baltimore Sailor]

The RV antifreeze is used because it's going to be dumped into the watershed when the engine is fired up come spring -- assuming raw water cooling, of course. You wouldn't want to send regular toxic antifreeze into public waters.

If it's not raw but freshwater cooled, why the worry over -100F antifreeze? Even Chicago doesn't get that cold in the winter. Surely -50F is good enough?

[67c&ccorv]

I am thinking that RV potable water A/F is probably not a good thing to be sitting inside an A4 over the winter...

Don?

[hanleyclifford]

R/V potable water antifreeze should not be used in an internal combustion engine. The issue is not just freeze protection but also corrosion protection.

[Marian Claire]

More info. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...ze-engine.html
Dan S/V Marian Claire

[Joel H.]

If it's not raw but freshwater cooled, why the worry over -100F antifreeze? Even Chicago doesn't get that cold in the winter. Surely -50F is good enough?[/QUOTE]

It is a raw water cooling system.

I would think -50 was good enough and I wouldn't have thought any more about it except that I noticed the stuff was turning to slush in my bilge at +25! When I asked around the yard they said they only use -100 in the engines. That's when the anxiety set in.

[Joel H.]

Oh, and thanks to everyone for the timely replies!

[sastanley]

oh boy - glycol vs. the "safer" RV stuff

First of all...Joel, welcome to the forum...it is a diverse group here!

I do not live where you do (I live in the mid-Atlantic..we rarely get colder than 0F here.)

Since you have commented on a raw water cooled motor...I would not put green antifreeze into a RWC motor that was expelled in the spring into the open ocean or Great Lakes no matter where I lived. I use the -20F (pink or purple RV stuff) which must be better than either a drained block (air & salt water, bad for the block, although my motor was winterized for 30 years this way before I owned it!!) or green ethylene glycol based Prestone that will get pumped into the open lake come spring.

Although I don't live in the Chicago area, I am relatively confident it does not get to -50F there either, so I would not fret about the antifreeze. If you want to fill the gaps with the advice above about removing the t-stat and filling what you can with some -100F stuff..go for it...hopefully it is the RV type.

I sure hope people aren't dumping ethylene glycol-based antifreeze made for cars into our waters!

Dan, thanks for that link...I agree with those guys...ethylene-gylcol in the CLOSED part of a fresh water cooled motor (inside the heat exchanger) - but only the pink/purple RV stuff on the raw water cooled side..i.e. the side that gets pumped overboard in spring...after 'pickling'.

Go on vacation and have fun..we'll be here to help you learn your motor when you get back!!! (I was a newbie just a couple of years ago with the A-4!!)

[Joel H.]

First of all...Joel, welcome to the forum...it is a diverse group here!

I do not live where you do (I live in the mid-Atlantic..we rarely get colder than 0F here.)

Since you have commented on a raw water cooled motor...I would not put green antifreeze into a RWC motor that was expelled in the spring into the open ocean or Great Lakes no matter where I lived. I use the -20F (pink or purple RV stuff) which must be better than either a drained block (air & salt water, bad for the block, although my motor was winterized for 30 years this way before I owned it!!) or green ethylene glycol based Prestone that will get pumped into the open lake come spring.

Although I don't live in the Chicago area, I am relatively confident it does not get to -50F there either, so I would not fret about the antifreeze. If you want to fill the gaps with the advice above about removing the t-stat and filling what you can with some -100F stuff..go for it...hopefully it is the RV type.

I sure hope people aren't dumping ethylene glycol-based antifreeze made for cars into our waters!

Dan, thanks for that link...I agree with those guys...ethylene-gylcol in the CLOSED part of a fresh water cooled motor (inside the heat exchanger) - but only the pink/purple RV stuff on the raw water cooled side..i.e. the side that gets pumped overboard in spring...after 'pickling'.

Go on vacation and have fun..we'll be here to help you learn your motor when you get back!!! (I was a newbie just a couple of years ago with the A-4!!)

So you wouldn't be concerned that the -50 stuff is already "slushing up" at +25? That's the only thing that's giving me pause.

I have two more days so I'll probably just add the -100 for peace of mind. I've been working on it every day sense I bought it anyway.
I do thank you for putting my mind more at ease Stanley.
Joel H.

[Marian Claire]

Is it possible that the stuff in the bilge was diluted by leaks/rain /snow melt or existing bilge water? Dan S/V Marian Claire

[hanleyclifford]

If you are concerned about dumping automotive antifreeze into the water in the spring - don't do it. Just drain the block into containers and you can even reuse it next year if you have no other use for it. But please do not put that pink stuff into your engine.

[Joel H.]

No, fresh, right out of a sealed bottle into a dry bilge. It's a common name brand too. I think it's probably normal and I shouldn't worry. But I will do as others around here do and use -100.