Checking out an older A4 powered boat.

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  • Canadaler
    Member
    • Jun 2011
    • 1

    Checking out an older A4 powered boat.

    I went and checked out a boat I'm interested in last week. It's been sitting for about 4 or 5 years. The big question mark in my mind right now is the condition of the engine.

    Some quick questions for those of you who know more about these engines than I do...although it looks similar to my old 8N Ford tractor motor!

    The boat was on the hard and although I tried to crank it over to do a (...and I know it's not great) cold engine compression test, but was never able to get the engine to crank. Either an electrical or starter problem I think. I had power to the main terminal on the starter, but turning the ignition didn't even elicit a "click" from the bendix. I think maybe the starter relay (which I assume is part of the starter assembly) wasn't working.

    Anyhow, from an external inspection the biggest thing which stands out are the totally corroded head bolts/studs at the very front of the engine. I suspect there was a long-term coolant leak which was allowed to drip in this area until the head bolts completely rotted out. Literally chunks of the nuts would come off in your hand. Sorry, but I had a camera malfunction and never got a great shot of them...but they're bad. You can just see one of them in the first picture below.

    Here's a picture of the (I believe) thermostat cover and a few questions:



    Any idea what the screw is on the back stud? Looks like a jury-rig fix to me. Broken stud maybe that the guy drilled through and tapped for a machine screw?

    Looks to me from the white powder that the gasket here was leaking for a long time...maybe because it couldn't be tightened enough with the screw driver?

    The plug looks a little rich to me...but not bad. It seems like somebody put new plugs and wires on it not long before it was taken out of the water (owner passed away.)

    It wasn't encouraging that on the shelf above the engine were two spray cans of "Quick Start." One of them was almost empty.

    Here's the "rat's nest" of wiring around the starter:



    I suspect the alternator is not original...possibly an automotive part?

    It's been upgraded with an electronic fuel pump:



    There was no fuel in the tank or system...but should the pump "click" loudly and continuously when the key turned on? It did. I thought it should have just made a "whirling" type of sound like other fuel pumps. Maybe it's pooched?

    ...continued below...
  • H3LlIoN
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2011
    • 156

    #2
    I would suspect that the screw is exactly as you say. Either way, you should be able to pull it out, then drill a hole and tap new threads. If he literally drilled through the old bolt, then just PB blast it for a week or so, and then try it with an easy out.

    As for your starter wiring.....looks like mine! hahaha.

    Best I can tell, the clicking isn't a fuel pump. I have the same clicking in mine, but I haven't messed with it to isolate it. Generally though, you are correct. Electrical fuel pumps generally purr, although not always really loudly.

    And "easy start" is ether. This could be a sign of either someone that didn't know how to properly prime a gas engine, or ongoing issues starting the engine. Other than that, plugs do look a little rich, but that probably was someone adjusting it trying to keep her running. Plugs and wires look pretty new, as you mentioned. Again, hints and ongoing issues. Either way, can't really get a good look at the engine from the pics, but it looks like a fun project, and a solid base to start with! Post more pics, and good luck! Hopefully you get it for a good price.
    Blog @ http://www.youthstrikesback.com
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    Comment

    • Marian Claire
      Afourian MVP
      • Aug 2007
      • 1769

      #3
      Canandaler: Welcome to the forum. The fuel pump looks like a Facet and it should "click", "tick". As stated some pumps whirl but Facets click. If the clicking starts when you turn the key but the engine is not running, therefore no oil pressure, then the engine probable does not have a low oil pressure switch. The pumps are designed to run continually but the speed and the sound of the clicking may vary some. Dan S/V Marian Claire
      Last edited by Marian Claire; 07-05-2011, 04:06 PM.

      Comment

      • hanleyclifford
        Afourian MVP
        • Mar 2010
        • 6994

        #4
        The alternator looks like a 90 series Balmar with a snazzy multi step regulator.

        Comment

        • Mo
          Afourian MVP
          • Jun 2007
          • 4519

          #5
          Don't want to steer you wrong.

          Is there any sign of there being water in the boat. Look at the inside and see if you can see a water mark. That is a good indicator of potential trouble. If the water mark is above the engine base pan there is a possibility that water got into the engine at the crank level and the engine is seized. See if he has a hand crank and if it will turn over with that. If it does that is a start.

          Depending where the boat it located you will need to know if it was properly winterised also. Cracks from frost damage are always a possibility.

          Alternator and starter possibly need replacing if there is allot of corrosion on them but they are relatively inexpensive.

          All that said, when you see the likes of the screw in the thermostat housing I'd beware. Someone made some upgrades but it might not have been the last owner...he might have run it into the ground...who knows.
          Mo

          "Odyssey"
          1976 C&C 30 MKI

          The pessimist complains about the wind.
          The optimist expects it to change.
          The realist adjusts the sails.
          ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

          Comment

          • edwardc
            Afourian MVP
            • Aug 2009
            • 2511

            #6
            Originally posted by H3LlIoN View Post
            I would suspect that the screw is exactly as you say. Either way, you should be able to pull it out, then drill a hole and tap new threads. If he literally drilled through the old bolt, then just PB blast it for a week or so, and then try it with an easy out.
            Sorry to disagree, but I would not use an easy-out under any circumstances!

            In my experience, they ALWAYS break off, leaving you with a hardened steel stub stuck in the hole that is impossible to drill out.

            The safest fix would be to remove the head, apply liberal amounts of PBBlaster and heat alternately, and then grasp the stump of the stud with a vice grip to work it loose.
            @(^.^)@ Ed
            1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
            with rebuilt Atomic-4

            sigpic

            Comment

            • H3LlIoN
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2011
              • 156

              #7
              It's all good. I generally have good luck with the premium brands of easy outs....the cheap ones always snap though. The other trick is to also make sure you do it by hand. No power tools. Taking a dowel and hammer and tapping the end of the bolt will cause the threads to break free too.
              Blog @ http://www.youthstrikesback.com
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