Vinegar bathed and clean...Is this Red Brass?

[JonnyQuest]

Shawn,
could you explain your raw water block intake modification? Normal routing is for a hose from impeller pump to block intake and then on to thermostat housing. Yours apparently goes from pump somewhere else and then terminates at the normal block intake point as mine.

Thanks!

[sastanley]

JQ...it simply routes around the other side of the engine from the raw water pump. If you look at the pictures of the larger ports that Neil put into his side plate, you'll see that he shifted the "T" 90 degrees so that the hose from the pump comes from the front of the engine & then feeds off to the t-stat housing & then into the block.

I'll see if I can dig up a picture of the whole thing. Eventually, I'll have a HX & an electric pump in the mix. For now, I've simply extended the hoses ahead of time for that pending installation. Like you, I've put it off for various reasons.

Here is a pic of Neil's set up from the thread I linked above..He has already installed the FWC components. That larger 5/8" hose heads around to the water pump outlet..I know it seems counter intuitive to run a hose 48" long around the engine when the side plate and pump are about 8" apart.
(photo credit - ndutton)

[ndutton]

Here is a pic of Neil's set up from the thread I linked above..He has already installed the FWC components. That larger 5/8" hose heads around to the water pump outlet.

The larger hose is actually 3/4" because it connects to the electric pump outlet of the same size located slightly outboard of the carburetor. Note that I am not using the Johnson pump.

I know it seems counter intuitive to run a hose 48" long around the engine when the side plate and pump are about 8" apart.

. . . . except that the pump no longer pumps through the engine - only the HX.

I color coded my hoses, black for coolant, red for raw water and routed them separate from each other. The coolant hoses run at the front of the engine, the raw water hoses at the back. Everything separate, easy to trace, easy to recognize, easy to work on.

[JonnyQuest]

I'm stumped by something in your photo. What's the function of the red handled petcock leading to the T-stat housing?

[JonnyQuest]

What are suitable replacement hose types?

What sort of hose is required in these raw water cooling systems?

The local marine supply store sold me fuel line hose. What about the red hose as well? Is it all fuel line hose or am I spending too much with their suggestion?

[ndutton]

I'm stumped by something in your photo. What's the function of the red handled petcock leading to the T-stat housing?

That's the bypass valve. The more it's closed, the more coolant - raw water or otherwise - is directed through the block.

What sort of hose is required in these raw water cooling systems?

I used regular automotive heater hose. The red and black hose are the same type. I figured since it was available in two colors, why not use it to my advantage? Others may feel differently but it's working fine for me.

Funny how the seller's suggestions always end up costing us more.

[ILikeRust]

What sort of hose is required in these raw water cooling systems?

The local marine supply store sold me fuel line hose. What about the red hose as well? Is it all fuel line hose or am I spending too much with their suggestion?

As Neil says, regular heater hose works fine - and is much cheaper than fuel line.

[sastanley]

Neil, thanks for jumping in and providing additional information. I didn't have any good pictures of my arrangement to explain to JQ. (that hose looked awful big for 5/8" with that tiny little 1/2" hose next to it.)

Great idea on color coding the hoses for easy identification in the myriad of engine room spaghetti!

[JonnyQuest]

Progress Report

As Neil says, regular heater hose works fine - and is much cheaper than fuel line.

Thanks! I just picked up some heater hose at lunch--better price! Not sure how much I'll get done this weekend, my project list (this go-round) includes:

1. Configure the fittings for pressure flushing (almost complete, need to flush aft half of block)
2. Add a t-fitting at through hull to allow for addition of muriatic acid (done)
3. Add raw water strainer (need to R&R current one for correct size)
4. Replace hoses with new hoses (75% done)
5. test T-stat (vinegar bathed/cleaned, needs Temp test)
6. Degrease engine and knock off rust, then spot repaint with Rust bonding/inerting agent and then bronze paint touch-ups.

Hopefully it will cool better and look better too: there was initially a temporary blockage. Initial exhaust manifold flushing blew out a very minor amount of dirt and thenhad virtually unrestricted flow. Fore drain plug flush blew out about 10 seconds of black water before it progressed towards clear (yay!). Will need to flush the aft drain plug this weekend to complete teh pressure flushing. After reassmbly and repainting I can acid flush another weekend, but all is looking good so far.

[JonnyQuest]

Sophomore science Lab: Thermostat still working!

So I performed the old thermostat in pot of water experiment and it began opening incrementally around 140-145 and fully opens around 175-180.

The base of the thermostat ash A 140 and 9060 stamped on it -- a 140degree thermostat I take it?

Looks like the same shape as the thermostat in the Moyer catalogue. Wow! $163 bucks...sure is pricey.

[sastanley]

That is the coveted Holley double-action 3-spring t-stat. Hold on to it as long as you can!

[Carl-T705]

Red Brass???? It's copper, it's what remains after the other element (zinc) has corroded away. For 5 bucks I replace both these fittings.

[hanleyclifford]

Red Brass???? It's copper, it's what remains after the other element (zinc) has corroded away. For 5 bucks I replace both these fittings.

http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic...n_Seawater.htm This shows where red brass lies in the electrochemical scheme of things - close enough to copper, bronze and a few others to used safely in the marine environment.