A 4 Resurection

[sastanley]

George it may help. the compression is 6.3:1, so 85% (rough guesstimate) of the air/oil mixture in the cylinder would displaced when the piston comes up. most of it will eventually sploosh out of the plug hole. Once you get it running, it will burn off in seconds/minutes.

How did you do a compression test with the plugs in?? Most compression testers I've seen screw into the spark plug hole??

[gclayton]

Sastanley

I left 3 plugs in and used the tester on the 4th. I just got back from testing with all plusg out. Did the towel and 2 10 second cranks no MMO came out. Compression was 1 90, 2 120, 3 95, 4 180 Does anyone have an idea why #4 could be 180? Can I go ahead and try to start the engine with that high a compression?

After 8 years of sitting the connections for the coil are rusted. I am planning on cleaning them up but I assume the coil should still be good? Sealed so there shouldnt be anything to deteriorate. Is this accurate?

Thanks

[gclayton]

I figured it out

My compression gague has a 2 in tube that screws into the plug hole and the gague and hose screw into th tube. Cyl #4 is hard to reach so I screwed the hose directly into the plug hole without the tube. that eliminated the volume of the tube thus increasing the compression to 180. Given that, looks like I have cood comperssion. Amazing after 8 years with no attention. The A 4 is bullit proof! Now to instal electronic ignition new coil and hope for ignition.

[gclayton]

No Spark but smoke

So far in efforts to rejuvinate my A4 I have

Unseized the engine
New starter
New rotor & distributor cap
Installed electronic ignition
New ignition wires
New coil

I tried to start her Sunday but got no spark, then I noticed a couple of wisps of smoke coming from the distributor (spark in the wrong place?). When I installed the ignition I was carefull red to + black to -. While installing the magnet I didn’t have full clearance so tapping on the deepset socket wasn’t exactly square and took a small chip 1/8” off the magnet. Could that be the cause. I had the battery hot lead to the large post on the starter and ground to block. I was using a remote starter switch from large starter post and small post but I also had the ignition key turned on but not cranking.At any rate I ordered another elec ignition. I assume the smoke was not good news. The wisdom of this group of experts is again appreciated.

Thanks
George

[rheaton]

I have a spare magnet if you need it. I mis-wired my brand new igniter and burned it out. Had to buy a new set.

[ndutton]

I was using a remote starter switch from large starter post and small post but I also had the ignition key turned on but not cranking.

That was likely what did the ignition module in, may even have hurt the coil. It depends on how long it was left on and not running.

[gclayton]

rheaton

Thanks for the offer but I also bought a new set I was pretty sure Id need it when I saw the smoke.


ndutton

The key was on for about 5 to 8 seconds. So i should leave the key off when using a remote starter?

Thanks
George

[ndutton]

I'm guessin' here

I wouldn't think such a short duration would be an issue, so what poofed the module in the first place? It's best you figure that out before connecting a replacement and vaporizing that one too. Your description of the remote start switch sounded correct and I don't think a damaged collar would do it either.

Are you sure the connections weren't reversed?

[gclayton]

I was very carefull in connecting the module to the correct terminals but to be sure tomorrow I am going to disconnect everything and trace each wire based on the wireing schematic. At $95.00 bucks a poof I dont want to toast another!! Hopefully she will fire up AND ROAR TO LIFE!!!!

[gclayton]

the next challenge

I figured out how i fried my ignition module. i did wire it correctly but i was so focused on doing it correctly i didnt pay enough attention to the other wires, i wired the altenator, fiel pump, ignition to the negative on the coil,,,,poof. I did it correctly today and got spark. Jumped the fuel pump and got ignition and it fired but it wouldnt fire enough to run. Checked fuel pump working, i would think my next move would be a carb rebuild could be lack of fuel, Any recomendations would be appreciated,

I also got a new noise. Sounds like bearings in the altenator or the thing the altenator belt drives off below the altenator (what is that?) help,

[Mo]

OK, I take it you have fuel and a working fuel pump. Ensure the water intake is off initially. Once running you can open the water for cooling. Also remember all the stuff poured into the head to try and free that engine. Ensure plugs are cleaned as they will fowl really quick if you had not removed the head and cleaned it all. If the engine starts and stops ensure you take a few minutes to see what is on you plugs. They are not used to oil in the combustion chamber.

You can try removing the carb. Take it apart carefully and you may be able to preserve your gaskets. Use the right size screw driver on the jets and try not to score them. Spray carb cleaner throughout and blow out with compressed air if you have it. When you take the jets out ensure you can see through them. Be careful of trying to ream them out with objects that might make the holes bigger...air work really good to clean it all up with carb cleaner. These are relatively easy to do, take your time. Takes me about 1/2 hour start to finish to clean out the carb.

I take it the alternator is not new. Remove the belt and see if the noise goes away. The alternator bearing may be seized. I think the other piece you were talking about is the accessory drive. I have never had to deal with one, however, I believe Hanley and a few more are up to speed on those.

Hope this helps you out.

[gclayton]

Carb is next

Mo

Thanks for the great input. Your reminder about all the oil in the cylinders makes sense. The engine fired better at first and ultimatley wouldnt fire at all...fouled plugs most likely as you suggest. Ordered a moyer carb rebuild kit today so i expect next weekend the engine will ROAR TO LIFE!!!

Then a new 55 amp altenator. I remember disccussion on having to change regulator???charger??? when up grading to 55 amp something about the existing set up wouldnt manage more than the stock 35 amp. Can anyone provide guidance on this. I am also going to install a charger/inverter. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Well from seized solid to spark and ignition. What an amazing engine. Couldnt have done it without all the knowledge so freely shared on this forum.
Thanks all...more to come im sure.

[hanleyclifford]

There is a lot of information out there about alternators, regulators, chargers and inverters. Before spending money make sure you know how you intend to use the system. For example, do you spend a lot of time plugged in to a dock? Do you overnight on the hook with lots of electrical used in a short period? Do you run with the engine for long periods? What are your loads, ie fridge, toaster oven, hair dryer etc? I recommend starting with charger at http://www.iotaengineering.com/12vdc.htm

[ndutton]

Then a new 55 amp alternator. I remember discussion on having to change regulator???charger??? when up grading to 55 amp something about the existing set up wouldn't manage more than the stock 35 amp. Can anyone provide guidance on this.

There are minor variations with connections depending on the alternator. For example, is it internally or externally regulated? My internally regulated alt is a single wire connection but others are not. There should be some instruction packaged with the new alternator.

One thing's for sure though, with a potential output greater than 30 amps you should be increasing the output wire from the alt to the battery to accommodate the greater amperage. My alt is a 100 amp (which I'll never achieve) and my output circuit is wired with #4 cable (the stock engine harness usually has #8 or so).

[gclayton]

Still trying

to recap
seized engin MMO etc unsiezed her
On the hard for 9 yrs, neglegted
new starter, ign wires , dist, rotor, electronic ignition, coil, rebuilt carb
verified c0mpression
verified strong spark
replaced all fuel filters
verified fule pumping to carb. jumped the oil pressure switch
new gas and tank

She wont fire up. using full choke and minimum throtle i get a little action with starter fluid(dont tell Don) but wont even run on that just fires a couple of times, clean and dry plugs bvetween each attempt. they are wet, MMO? gas ether? no sign of burnt fuel.

What am I missing....I want to suceed myself with this but im almost ready to call a mechanic. thanks for any input!