Using Permatex Form A Gasket for thermostat

[nestorph]

While replacing the water jacket plate, I took the opportunity to clean as many parts as I could release, including the thermostat housing. I used a wire wheel to clean the crud and as a result I think I created a couple pinholes through which water is now escaping. I changed the gasket and the problem remains whether or not the thermostat is in place. I'm thinking of using the Permatex High Temperature Form-A-Gasket. My question is: do I still keep the original gasket? If so, do I apply the Permatex on both sides of it? Anyone have any experience with it? I'd prefer this route over buying a new housing.
Thanks

[Bold Rascal]

Pin holes in ?

The pin holes were probably already there, your cleaning only exposed them.

That being the case I'd consider whether the part is still structurally viable. Is there enough base metal left so that the part can be repaired and still function. Since these parts are metal I'd suggest JB Weld. If its not salvageable I'd replace it.

[ndutton]

Equally important is the condition of the spud on the underside of the thermostat housing dome. The shoulders should be crisp with a clearly defined edge. If it's eroded to a rounded stump the housing needs replacement anyway.

[nestorph]

The pin holes were probably already there, your cleaning only exposed them.

That being the case I'd consider whether the part is still structurally viable. Is there enough base metal left so that the part can be repaired and still function. Since these parts are metal I'd suggest JB Weld. If its not salvageable I'd replace it.

Thanks. Buying some JB Weld in the morning!

[sastanley]

whoa..hold up!

The answer to your other question is if you are adding Permatex to a gasket to aid in sealing irregular surfaces, yes, both sides.

Got any pictures to show us? They are always very helpful in diagnosing the condition of things, and we can provide better suggestions.

JB Weld is an epoxy..if you mix that up and assemble the t-stat housing with it wet, it will be a bear to get apart, and maybe impossible if the JB Weld does a good job of bonding the two parts permanently.

If you use JB Weld as a 'gasket sealer' I think you will make the situation worse in the long run...where are the 'pin holes'? In the housing? Is water leaking around the gasket, stud holes, a hole in the housing itself?

The condition of the 'spud' Neil mentioned is important..it allows the t-stat to work correctly by blocking off the bypass and forces more cooling water in the block when the t-stat is open...don't overlook its condition while you have it apart.

edit - here is a picture of what my old one looked like. I did not know this was no good until someone told me..those edges of that 'spud' should be level & crisp..mine was soft & as you can see, literally crumbling. I replaced this housing.

[nestorph]

How do you define viable?

The pin holes were probably already there, your cleaning only exposed them.

That being the case I'd consider whether the part is still structurally viable. Is there enough base metal left so that the part can be repaired and still function. Since these parts are metal I'd suggest JB Weld. If its not salvageable I'd replace it.

I'm not sure how to determine if it's structurally viable. I removed it this morning and took it home. In the attached photo, I circled the area where the leak was coming from. I don't see (or recognize) any areas that would be obvious leak culprits. I can clean the surface further but wouldn't know when to apply the JBWeld. I want to get the boat in the water (yeah--it's July 31) so I may just use some Form-A-Gasket as a temporary measure and order a new dome from Moyer. Still, it would be nice to figure out a cheaper solution.

[Bold Rascal]

Some common sense please..

I would NEVER suggest JB weld for use as a sealant nor did I. For filling in "pin holes" or fixing broken parts it's definately worth a try.

Nestorph:
Your issue is corrosion in the gasket sealing area. I don't see any "pin holes"
If you properly clean and prepare both surfaces (smooth and flat) that the gasket is supposed to seal you should not have leaks. There are threads in the forum that provide information on the proper sealant to use and where to use it.. Shawn has given you advice in his response.

When using any product (especially one that is as permanant as JB weld, 5200, etc. etc. it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and precautions, ie: preparation and drying times, etc. etc.

You can google the word "VIABLE" and make that determination yourself.

[hanleyclifford]

$.02

Moyer Marine sells a bronze replacement part for that housing. The one shown in the picture should be thrown into the trash without delay.

[nestorph]

Done!

Moyer Marine sells a bronze replacement part for that housing. The one shown in the picture should be thrown into the trash without delay.

I've been shamed into ordering a new thermostat housing which should arrive tomorrow! I immediately threw out the old one. Of course, now there's water spraying all over the place...

[sastanley]

good call - no one likes to waste money, but....

nestorph...the bronze housing from Moyer is a quality piece...after showing us that picture, no wonder you were having trouble with water leaks.

Did you get a couple of spare gaskets & stuff too? I always use the excuse of a new part to replenish my 'spare gasket' inventory, like water pump, carb, t-stat, etc. since those items seem to get removed regularly.

[nestorph]

nestorph...the bronze housing from Moyer is a quality piece...after showing us that picture, no wonder you were having trouble with water leaks.

Did you get a couple of spare gaskets & stuff too? I always use the excuse of a new part to replenish my 'spare gasket' inventory, like water pump, carb, t-stat, etc. since those items seem to get removed regularly.

Yes, I did. The Moyer store has done well by me this season... ;-)

[Bold Rascal]

Good Call on the new housing

First off, My appologies for not being absolutely clear on the use of the JB Weld. When pin holes where mentioned my mind automatically invisioned holes in the dome of the housing and not the flange.

I had to replace my T stat housing this year as well due to severe corrosion of the spud. You'll be glad you did.

Not sure where in the country you are located but will tell you that nobody ships something as fast as Ken. I've orderred several parts from him and they always show up the next day. Amazing..

Again my apologies, good luck on resolving your water leaks

[67c&ccorv]

My concern is what the other half of the housing looks like?

[nestorph]

My concern is what the other half of the housing looks like?

I'm pleased to report that the base is smooth as glass.

[nestorph]

Again my apologies, good luck on resolving your water leaks
----
Certainly no apologies are needed!! I'm very grateful for everyone's advice and amazed at how quickly everyone jumped in to help. I've tolerated sketchy cooling for too long and am looking forward to focusing on sailing instead of engine work. For the latter I could have just bought a motorboat!