How often change plugs,cap, rotor?

[ArtJ]

Being that most people have electronic ignitions installed, what is the
life expectancy in hours and seasons when caps, rotors, and plugs
need to be changed.
In the past I have changed all 3 items every
season. I may have been discarding a lot of good parts.

Given that the price of these items has risen dramatically,
what replacement schedule is realistic based on hrs and seasons?

Typically, I put around 150 hrs per season on the engine.

Also, can rotors and caps be cleaned up from minor burns? I assume
with a file.
I also normally have just dropped new plugs in taking the
gap as it comes from the mfr.


Comments appreciated

Thanks

Art

[ArtJ]

I also have 3 epoxy coils from Indigo. One I used for 9 years, a spare
installed currently, and a unused one .

Should I discard these coilsin favor of oil based coils?

I have been using Indigo ignition, but am
trying out Petronix next season to rule out ignition as cause of shutdowns..


Thanks Again


Art

[hanleyclifford]

I generally get about 1000 hrs from a cap and rotor - could probably get more except I like to start each trip with new parts. But I keep a complete extra distributor on board. I never throw away the old parts until they will not work. Same with spark plugs; just keep cleaning them and regapping. Never trust the gap out of the box.

[roadnsky]

...I also normally have just dropped new plugs in taking the gap as it comes from the mfr.

Art-
Agee with Hanley. Never trust them out of the box.
I have been gapping my plugs at .040"
Gives a slightly "hotter" burn which I feel keeps 'em cleaner.

[jhwelch]

I just replaced my spark plugs with about 1,500 hours on them.
I also replaced the rotor -- the end had become pitted and felt rough.
The distributor cap seemed to be okay and is still in service.

I got a new spare rotor at Napa for less than $6.
New points and condenser were about $25.

-jonathan

[ArtJ]

Thanks guys

I have found existing stock ,small qty (1) 62 chevy 2 rotors , at Autozone at $4. New rotor orders $7.
Caps at $7, new stock.

Not sure what price Napa charges, Can I also assume NAPA is better quality?

Guys, What are the symptoms of rotors and caps needing replacement?

What do you think of Epoxy coils? I have a Indigo epoxy coil which I have
used at least 9 years. Currently, I have the twin to it installed also 9 years
old. A few years ago, Indigo mentioned that they had some failures with
Epoxy coils. In a conversation with them, they mentioned that the failures
occurred early on. and if I didn't have a problem after years it was probably
okay. I recently bought a third backup coil from Indigo. It is a larger coil,
I believe also epoxy and is labeled 3.8 ohms.

I believe the coil I used for years is probably ok, not sure about its twin
since it is part of the older epoxy coil batches that did fail.

the 3rd new coil is a unknown. I think I remember Indigo saying that it was
a improved epoxy coil.

I am wondering how these coils will perform with Petronix ignition which
I just installed. (no known problems with Indigo ignition, just testing).



Thanks


Art

[Dave Neptune]

Changing part

Joe, I have been using the Indigo for about the same time. I change out my cap & rotor about every 4~5 years and only get the marine one if I can. They are a bit more expensive and will live longer in a marine environment.

Like Hanley said never trust the gap out of the box. Recently I have been changing out plugs a bit not that they were going bad but I wanted to try a few out. In trying out the Autolites and the Champions of various heat ranges I settled on the ones that gave me the most power (rpm's) and was a bit surprised. I sent a set to Don with about 50 hours on them and normally change them out every 2~3 seasons or about 300 hours. I keep the recent set as spares and have yet to need one due to failure or fouling. I gap at .040 and have gone back to the RJ8C Champion (second season running them), they gave me a solid 150 RPM over the rest. My engine has 40 years on her and I keep her running very clean as I am a carb nut so to speak. My beastie does use oil but I have never oil fouled a plug as I do keep her in tune.

Did you try the "hot wire" to the ign circuit while tracking yout intermitent shutdowns? It is very true about most electronic systems work or they quit. Also if you are trying a fresh unit why not use the same thing as you would have a much easier swap-out if you had a failure.

Dave Neptune

[roadnsky]

What do you think of Epoxy coils?
I am wondering how these coils will perform with Petronix ignition which
I just installed.

Art-
I have the epoxy filled FLAMETHROWER that I use with the Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition.
2 years running with no issue...

[jhwelch]

I had a little issue when changing my coil for one of a slightly larger diameter the other day -- there is a longish bolt on the bracket used to hold the coil and which "squeezes" it, so the bracket grips the coil firmly. The bolt was too short for the fatter coil. Being on a trip south and not wanting to go hunting for a little item I put a hose clamp around the coil just above the bracket so it won't slip down.

It seems to me that this is a better way to install the coil, so you don't have to fumble around removing the bracket bolts on the rear of the engine (my access there is by feel only). So if you want to take your coil out you can just lift it up.

-jonathan

[ArtJ]

Thanks for the info guys

I have switched to the Petronix more out of curiosity. I have two indigo
units which I have swapped in and out for years and have never been
able to track a single shutdown to the Indigo units.

Since I am not suspecting the indigo units, I don't think the swap out
to petronix will do any harm ,or good related to the shutdowns, but
possibly epoxy coils could have something to do with it.

The engine is now winterized and batteries taken home, so any
run checks must now be done in the spring.

I am wondering about pumps shutting down in higher temperature as
posted in the recent pump thread. On the Tartan34c where the
engine is in a tightly packed box in the middle of the cabin with
a Hot wrapped standpipe exhaust, it gets very warm. I just recently
installed a new facet pump. I run with the fan on constantly and
sometimes on long trips remove the engine cover hatch for further
ventilation.

Regards

Art

[ndutton]

I am wondering about pumps shutting down in higher temperature as posted in the recent pump thread.

Art,

Before you start chasing down an assumed pump problem that may not exist, please take the info in that other thread in the proper context. There's a lot of head scratching going on over there.

What is known and not in dispute:

1. Joe experienced elevated pump temps, measured high vacuum ahead of the pump and low pressure after the pump. Engine eventually shut down.
2. Roadnsky experienced elevated pump temps and through extensive testing found no parameters out of line. His engine runs perfectly.
3. These are the only 2 reported pump problems involving temperature - with the exception of a known Facet pump manufacturing defect some time ago - within this entire community.

What is under consideration and not yet concluded in Joe's case:
What came first, the chicken or the egg? Was the elevated pump temp the root problem as in the case of a bad pump or were there other factors that caused the stall and pump temp in the process? There has been much theory and conjecture and as of yet, none of it conclusive.

And in Roadnsky's case:
The current theory is his issue is environmental due to the fact he sails on the river Styx (Vegas area with air temps over 110). This theory is not yet proven either.

Your concern over the engine and exhaust location is noted and awareness of temps in the area is prudent but please keep in mind that the discussed pump temp issues represent what is believed to be less than 1% of the installations out there.

[ArtJ]

Neil

Thanks for the summary Appreciated

Art

[Jesse Delanoy]

I put in new spark plugs at the beginning of each season, and I carry a spare set on board. I set the gap on every plug as it comes out of the box.

I have not yet replaced the rotor or distributor cap. I have about 350 hours on a Moyer rebuilt engine.

Jesse Delanoy
1977 Catalina 30 - Off The Grid
Baltimore/Pasadena, MD

[Mark S]

Can't trust the gap out of the box; the gap will vary from plug to plug. Pick a gap and set all the plugs at the same gap. I use a .35 gap and have no plug fouling problems whatsoever.

I have the Ignitor ignition and I replace the cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires every spring, whether they need it or not. I always keep a new cap, rotor and set of plugs as spares. All these parts are reasonably inexpensive and changing them in the spring means I start each season fresh.