Cutting exhaust hose

[Golfdad75]

Ok I have the manifold off and need to get the exhaust hose off. That appears impossible. Can I cut it with a dremel? Any suggestions?

[Dave Neptune]

I usually cut the hose with a hack saw and the reinforcing wire with a wire cutter, quick and easy.

Dave Neptune

[Golfdad75]

Thanks, I got it off and I believe the leak was coming out where the flange and junction pipe is. I hope to have attached a picture. Maybe someone can tell me what caused this.

[joe_db]

What the heck am I looking at
Is that a RUBBER hose stuck in the flange

[Dave Neptune]

I'm with Joe, what is that inside the flange? I've not seen anything like that in an A-4 or anything else.

Dave Neptune

[Golfdad75]

No it is not a rubber hose. It is the pipe that joins the flange to the first elbow. And yes it has threads

[joe_db]

What is your other hand on?
HOW did the metal get like that? The exhaust is hot, but not hot enough to melt iron and deform it.
I have fixed my own and other A4 exhausts probably about 10 times by now and never ever seen anything even slightly like what you are showing.

[hanleyclifford]

Whatever the case that flange should be replaced.

[Golfdad75]

Yes I have ordered a new flange. A plumbing guy thought it was heat related. Don Moyer thought it was done by twisting the hot section. I have no idea other than to replace it

[joe_db]

Make sure and use black iron to make the new exhaust. Galvanized pipe STINKS the first few hours and the fumes will make you sick, there is even a name for it - "Metal Fume Fever".
Don't ask how I know this

[hanleyclifford]

Resist the temptation to over tighten the black iron components. Usually hand tight plus 1/4 turn is sufficient. This leaves you some flexibility when setting up your hot section support, fore and aft and athwartships. I like to use stainless threaded rod bent to suit and ordinary pipe hanging clamps.

[Golfdad75]

What did you use the threaded rod and clamps for

[hanleyclifford]

What did you use the threaded rod and clamps for

The two clamps go around the riser before you wrap the heat tape. The two pieces of ss rod are used to construct the "stay" and "shroud". The fore and aft piece balances the weight on the flange to eliminate stress on the threads at their most vulnerable point. The "shroud" keeps the hot section from rolling left or right. The threaded hole on the block that used to hold the coil serves as a great connection point for the shroud. The water outlet fitting at the front of the manifold makes a handy anchor for the stay. Incorporate a 3/8" turnbuckle in the stay to get the perfect adjustment.

[Golfdad75]

You must have a much bigger and complex system than I have. If you have a picture g ch oils you post it. I am really thankful for the advice

[hanleyclifford]

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/for...7&d=1707502877 Even on a smaller 1 1/4" system the angular moment on those puny threads can be considerable. Add vibration and you've got a joint destroyer.