Short version: Water comes out the plug holes on #3 and 4 (when cranked with the plugs out). Manifold does not leak, at least at 3 psi. Removed the head-gasket, and head and gasket look like new (had the gasket pair replaced last summer). Head is flat. No water in oil.
Other than a cracked block (pray no!), how else can the water get into the cylinders?
Long story:
1. Engine usually purrs like a kitten - starts after 2 revolutions, but still turn off water before starting.
2. Engine runs cool - around 130 F.
3. A week ago I started the engine and it ran extremely rough and wouldn't take any throttle, I checked the usual suspects, fuel and spark. While checking the spark, with the plugs out, is when the water geysers from #3 and 4 happened. Sh...., the head gasket again, I thought.
4. So I pulled the head and found the gasket and head in good condition, with no evidence of a water passage from the cooling channels to the cylinders (water leak usually causes a rust line on the head, but perhaps rust hadn't had time to form - pulled the head 2 days after problem occurred).
5. Checked the manifold using the plug-and-blow technique - no apparent leak. An aside: I once measured the pressure I can blow (about 2 psig) and suck (about 3 psig). Could the leak be so tiny that in only occurs with the higher pressure coming from the water pump? A stretch, I think.
6. Engine is a newer type and I have a Moyer anti-siphon valve installed. Probably should take it off and check its operation.
7. Six of the studs came out and I noticed that the nuts were pretty corroded on them. Also noticed that the threads on the bottom of the studs is much coarser than the nut end. Could it be that when the studs were torqued to 30 ft-lbs, only the coarse threads were turning (nut frozen to the stud)? That would put a lot less axial force on the stud. Would love to believe this was the problem.
Am putting the head back on as soon as the gaskets and some studs arrive, and only half- expect the problem to be solved.
So, what am I missing?
Would appreciate help.
Ware
Other than a cracked block (pray no!), how else can the water get into the cylinders?
Long story:
1. Engine usually purrs like a kitten - starts after 2 revolutions, but still turn off water before starting.
2. Engine runs cool - around 130 F.
3. A week ago I started the engine and it ran extremely rough and wouldn't take any throttle, I checked the usual suspects, fuel and spark. While checking the spark, with the plugs out, is when the water geysers from #3 and 4 happened. Sh...., the head gasket again, I thought.
4. So I pulled the head and found the gasket and head in good condition, with no evidence of a water passage from the cooling channels to the cylinders (water leak usually causes a rust line on the head, but perhaps rust hadn't had time to form - pulled the head 2 days after problem occurred).
5. Checked the manifold using the plug-and-blow technique - no apparent leak. An aside: I once measured the pressure I can blow (about 2 psig) and suck (about 3 psig). Could the leak be so tiny that in only occurs with the higher pressure coming from the water pump? A stretch, I think.
6. Engine is a newer type and I have a Moyer anti-siphon valve installed. Probably should take it off and check its operation.
7. Six of the studs came out and I noticed that the nuts were pretty corroded on them. Also noticed that the threads on the bottom of the studs is much coarser than the nut end. Could it be that when the studs were torqued to 30 ft-lbs, only the coarse threads were turning (nut frozen to the stud)? That would put a lot less axial force on the stud. Would love to believe this was the problem.
Am putting the head back on as soon as the gaskets and some studs arrive, and only half- expect the problem to be solved.
So, what am I missing?
Would appreciate help.
Ware
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