Newbee With An Atomic 4

[ButchPetty]

I have been making my 1968 Hughes a home for a couple of years now. It had no engine when I got it and in the end to my "how should I power it" dilemma I have purchased a 1966 Atomic 4. The engine is complete but partially disassembled. I completely trust the seller and take his word on what he has said about the engine. He said: each cylinder had 114 psi on the compression test before disassemble. He had it as a spare engine and it set in his garage for 10 years. He is 80, retired engineer, sailor retired and was selling his one owner, Pearson Triton sailboat also. He lived in Michigan on the great lakes. The engine has never been in salt water. But he had never ran the engine. That is the history of the engine as I know it.



Today I finally got time to start taking a good look at the engine. It has the following problems:

1. Broken Exhaust Manifold Flange Stud/bolt.

2. Water Jacket Cover Stud/Bolt Broken.

3. (New: Just Discovered) A Hairline Engine Block Crack.



Number two I think I got it. Moyer has the fix.

Number one I would like some advice please. I have posted a picture.

Number three is my concern. The crack does not look like it could cause any problems other than it may blow a head gasket. And this I am assuming because of its location relevant to adjoining passages in the head. And the fact that the crack does not run down the face of the block, just the surface of aginst the head. What is the recommended fix to this and how can I cheapest get this motor to give me a couple of years of service?

Also, standing in front of the engine and turning the engine in the correct rotation, counter clockwise, looking from the back of the engine the coupling turns clock wise if the shifter is pushed forward. Am I correct that this is a "right hand" rotation? The contradicts the Moyer website. Just curious.

On the top of one of the pistons is the numbers "020". Can I assume correctly that this is an oversized piston?

One more thing if I may....my engine has a date stamped in its block. Is this the norm? Reason for asking is the early/late model id dilemma?

Trust me when I say that I am working on a budget by yet I want the fixes to work.





Thanks for any advice on the issues in advance.







I have a couple more pics if needed.







Captain Butch Petty
S/Y Anole

http://butchpetty.com

[Marian Claire]

Welcome to the forum. Check on the block above the starter for a serial #. The “tombstone” reversing gear cover and oil fill say early model and a nice looking one at that. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[CalebD]

Butch,
I have an A4 from 1967 that is a hybrid early model/late model engine which seems to be common from that era. I think there is a thread somewhere here about what modifications/upgrades can be done to an early model block that make it a 'hybrid'. My engine has a late model carb, thermostat but is basically an early model block.
Regarding your photos and questions I would say that the cheapest fix for any small cracks would be JB Weld epoxy. Getting the broken studs out should require a bunch of drilling and tapping; many here swear that the 'Easy Out' is hardly that at all as when it breaks into the already broken stud there is just that much more fresh metal to drill out.
I 2nd Marian Claire that your engine looks to be in pretty nice shape for an oldie.
Welcome to the MM (A4) forum.

[hanleyclifford]

Welcome to the forum. Your engine is an early type A4. Yes, the pistons appear to be .020" oversize (the max for my liking). The cracks in the block do not appear to be life threatening. Just be sure to install the head following the instructions in the Moyer Marine Overhaul and Repair Manual (a copy of which you either have or should obtain ASAP), building your torque in at least three stages. Of some concern is that thermostat housing which is not A4 original equipment, and appears a little contrived for the space. I wonder if it interferes with the exhaust. The manifold stud is not a problem. Try using a little PB blaster and a vise grip. If you cannot get it out, just drill and retap. Your engine looks clean and in good shape. I see a lot of thread material in the cylinder head stud holes. I would get rid of that thermostat. Best regards and welcome again, Hanley

[ButchPetty]

Thanks everyone for the welcome and the replys. Yes Hanley, I do have the manual. Waited for it and read it all before I even uncrated the engine. I actually did not even pay much attention to the thermostat till now. I see what you mean and will look closer.
Caleb my first thoughts were someone attempted to easy-out the broken manifold bolt. I'm glad they stopped where they did. I agree with you "aginst using them".
I must say that I feel somewhat more confident in the motor after your comments. I however am very new to marine engines and I am once again on a fast learning curve with this engine. It does seem like a simple engine so I think it will come togather good.
I dont have a prop yet and want to order one. But I am still perplexed about the engine rotation. Am I correct that if I engage the shift forward (twords the flywheel) that the engine is in forward? And if looking at the coupling face and it is turning clockwise I need a RH rotation prop?
Butch

[ndutton]

Am I correct that if I engage the shift forward (twords the flywheel) that the engine is in forward? And if looking at the coupling face and it is turning clockwise I need a RH rotation prop?
Butch

Correct on both counts. You should feel a definite detent (clunk, click) shifting into forward and no such thing in reverse.

[lat 64]

If you can see cracks, then get the block magnafluxed to find the ones you can't see. Dry out the block before you bring it to a machinist. oil does not help the magnaflux powder flow to the cracks.

Cracks that go from water-to-water are not too bad, but if they go into the combustion chamber, valve seats, or into oil passages; Then it's not so good.
Some machinists will do this cheaply as triage at the door to the shop.

Also, If you have never removed broken bolts, then the cheapest path will be to seek professional help. It's easy when you know how. It's a bad hell when you blow it. It's a zen thing.

russ

[ButchPetty]

Got it.
Thanks everyone.
Butch

[lat 64]

By the way, That's not an aftermarket thermostat. It's a sixteenth-century Portuguese bronze deck gun. Fires both ways at the same time. very rare, only one was ever made. Do NOT fire it.

Russ(revisionist)

[ButchPetty]

Ha, ha, ha. Lmfao.
That thought had crossed my mind actually.
Was kinda wondering about the JB Weld idea. Would I have to grind a "v" in the block for that to work? Yeah, I know, your probably going to say "yes".
Wow, this is becoming a big big big learning curve.

[CalebD]

JB Weld

The long term fix for the cracks is likely Russ' magnaflux idea (I don't know what this entails at all).
The JB Weld idea is likely a more temporary or emergency kind of fix if you don't want to pay for magnafluxing. I don't think it would be a good idea to expand the cracks before filling but I am certainly no expert at this type of repair.
JB Weld claims to have a high temperature tolerance and be suitable for engine repairs. I just can't say how robust a fix it might provide.
It sounds like Russ has much more experience in this area then I do. He also has a very active imagination and has a good sense of humor.

[67c&ccorv]

By the way, That's not an aftermarket thermostat. It's a sixteenth-century Portuguese bronze deck gun. Fires both ways at the same time. very rare, only one was ever made. Do NOT fire it.

Russ(revisionist)

LMAO!

No Butch, it is the orginal Dole thermostat housing - exactly what I have on my 1967 early model A4. I like it (and the early model cooling system) a lot...although my fellow marinaites get very weirded when I start the old girl up and no water flows out the exhaust until the motor is well warmed up!

There is a lot of arm waving and gesticulating as I pass by oblivious to all due to the "thrum" of that beautiful motor down below.

As an aside I can't help but think of Don Moyers comments about the early model engine castings appearing to be better cast and more uniform out of the sandcast mold.

Yours, (other than the cracks) looks great!

[ButchPetty]

I did use JB on an old school bus camper, and on the engine block, crack at the freeze plug, and it worked. So I know it is good. But this is in the head gasket sandwitch. So I cant see it doing any good at all, actually doing bad, if not sanded down so the head gasket would not be affected.
So, the magnaflux thing is not going to be benificial to me. I just want to head off this issue. None that I dont see. And get a little service out of my engine. This is not rocket science......its zen.

[ButchPetty]

LMAO!

No Butch, it is the orginal Dole thermostat housing - exactly what I have on my 1967 early model A4. I like it (and the early model cooling system) a lot...although my fellow marinaites get very weirded when I start the old girl up and no water flows out the exhaust until the motor is well warmed up!

There is a lot of arm waving and gesticulating as I pass by oblivious to all due to the "thrum" of that beautiful motor down below.

As an aside I can't help but think of Don Moyers comments about the early model engine castings appearing to be better cast and more uniform out of the sandcast mold.

Yours, (other than the cracks) looks great!

That is funny.

[67c&ccorv]

Butch - here is photo of my thermostat. I had it electro-less nickel plated and got a new 140 Dole thermostat from Moyer Marine.

The additional piping was added so as to make my engine temp and warning senders (also from Moyer) more easily accessible.

Cheers!