Main Bearing Studs

[Ball Racing]

Okay, I torqued my main bearing caps down to 60 ft.lbs. as the moyer manual stated.
I striped a nut, and stud on the cap that has the thrust side bearing.
I go to the NAPA store and get a stud they had (which was a junk grade) and while torqueing things down again, I strip the other side, and nut.
it also stretched the ole cheap napa stud, and I aborted my mission.

I looked around on the Moyer site, and find flywheel studs, head studs, valve cover studs,
But,,,, No main bearing cap studs, or nuts.The nuts are those special self lockers..
I checked with Mcmaster Carr, and they don't have a stud with fine, and course threads in 7/16"
They do carry the nut. just under $5 a piece

Is 60 ft/lbs. right?
Thats alot for a 7/16 unless it's a grade 8 which is suppose to take like 79lbs.
Does anyone sell the studs, and nuts for main bearing caps?
I was using plasti-gauge trying to check my clearances getting ready to assemble, and now the only thing I need to go further is 2 studs, and 2 nuts.

Daniel

[hanleyclifford]

Unless you are able to get a couple of studs thru the Moyer organization I would consider having a pair made up special by a machine shop since this is such a critical item. Also it wouldn't hurt to check calibration on that torque wrench. 60 ft lbs is correct.

[67c&ccorv]

Hope this does not sound to sophmorhic, but what technique are you using to torque down the fasteners?

[Ball Racing]

Starting low,25lbs-going from one to another going up in 10lb increments,
Getting 60lbs on the rear cap, but stripping the front before 50lbs was reached.

[hanleyclifford]

Other possible sources include Old Lyme Marine, Hansen Marine (Marblehead) and Apponaug in Rhode Island.

[lat 64]

Daniel,
Your technique sounds right, I think you got some bad studs though.
Either they were over-tighten long before you got the motor or they just bought plain low-strength studs.
This should not happen to the proper strength bolts.
Save your beer money for a week and order new ones.

Get the good ones,

R

[ILikeRust]

I know this might sound really stupid, but I gotta say it, because I've seen others do it before, and it's something I'm paranoid about, so I always triple-check:

Make sure you're using the right scale on the torque wrench. Mine has both ft.-lb. and N-m. If you're not being careful, it is not impossible to line up "60" on the scale, but not realize you're looking at the wrong scale.

I'm surprised torquing one of those studs to 60 ft.-lb. was enough to strip it.

[Ball Racing]

My torque wrench is a foot pounds only, and has a twist dial, and a window that shows you only one number at a time, and it's a "click" type wrench.

I didn't like the look of the nuts when I removed them, before attempting to rebuild the engine.
I think maybe the nut's stripped and tore up the stud at the same time.

Thanks for the input guys,
I'll get it right,,,,,, hopefully soon!
Daniel

[jpian0923]

Give ken a call at Moyer. I bet he'll help.

[jpian0923]

Stud, bearing cap fly end part number 261033

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/?p=numberresults&pn=261033&storetype=mdd&x=&y=

Stud, bearing cap drive end part number 261032

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/?p=numberresults&pn=261032&storetype=mdd&x=0&y=0

I would check with Ken to see if the 7/16'' repair stud can be used, Or the long Manifold stud.

[Ball Racing]

Hey, Thanks
Wow look at that price!
But at least someone is listing them.

[jpian0923]

Very outrageous price. They list it but I'm not sure they have it in stock. I tried ordering a head from them back in February and after a week of waiting for an email or some kind of notification I called them. They hadn't processed my order because they didn't have it in stock. At that point I ordered from Moyer. Call them first.