Oil Pressure Safety Switch questions???

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  • JOHN COOKSON
    Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
    • Nov 2008
    • 3501

    #16
    You're On The Right Track

    Originally posted by southcoasting View Post
    So I'm assuming once I get the new OPSS from Moyer, I can find out which one is ground on the existing switch and eliminate with to go with the typical 2 wire connection...
    The ground side or circut is usually kept seperate from the hot circut. To have the ground side and hot side on the same switch is well......atypical.
    The cut wire may have been the ground wire to the instrument cluster. You can see this for yourself or post a picture. Each gauge should be grounded. If the wire that was cut does come from the gauge cluster as a ground wire the other end went to engine ground or a buss bar then on to battery ground.
    Have you consulted the "drawings and schematics" section of the forum?

    TRUE GRIT

    Comment

    • hanleyclifford
      Afourian MVP
      • Mar 2010
      • 6994

      #17
      If the switch has three terminals it is most unlikely any of them have to do with ground. It is more likely two of them are one side of the switch providing two + inputs to run the pump - possibly one from the ignition circuit and an override from "R" on the starter solenoid.

      Comment

      • southcoasting
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2011
        • 164

        #18
        Yeah, on the gauge itself, there are three connections, one is already grounded...The other is not a ground that I would assume goes to the switch and third connection is the copper oil line...
        1971 Tartan 34C Sloop "NOVA LUNA", Rebuilt (2019) Fresh Water Cooled A4 (Bought boat in 2014)
        1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)

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        • hanleyclifford
          Afourian MVP
          • Mar 2010
          • 6994

          #19
          What's needed here is a wiring diagram. Neil, are you on station?

          Comment

          • ndutton
            Afourian MVP
            • May 2009
            • 9776

            #20
            Originally posted by hanleyclifford View Post
            What's needed here is a wiring diagram. Neil, are you on station?
            It's my pleasure.
            Attached Files
            Neil
            1977 Catalina 30
            San Pedro, California
            prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
            Had my hands in a few others

            Comment

            • edwardc
              Afourian MVP
              • Aug 2009
              • 2511

              #21
              Originally posted by southcoasting View Post
              Yeah, on the gauge itself, there are three connections, one is already grounded...The other is not a ground that I would assume goes to the switch and third connection is the copper oil line...
              If your gauge has a copper oil line going to it, it's a mechanical gauge, and needs no power to function. The only leads going to it should be for the illumination lamp. One wire should go to ground, and the other to someplace that is energized to +12 when the ignition switch is turned on.
              @(^.^)@ Ed
              1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
              with rebuilt Atomic-4

              sigpic

              Comment

              • hanleyclifford
                Afourian MVP
                • Mar 2010
                • 6994

                #22
                The diagram posted by Neil shows the basic wiring for the fuel pump but does not include the override circuit from solenoid "R". Since your OPSS has three terminals and thus possibly the override, additional wiring details may be needed. Thank you, Neil; as always ready with the good stuff.

                Comment

                • ndutton
                  Afourian MVP
                  • May 2009
                  • 9776

                  #23
                  Fyi

                  It's my opinion the override adds unnecessary wiring complexity to a basic A-4. There is ample residual fuel in the carb bowl to get the engine started without any help from the fuel pump. Once started the oil pressure rises so quickly it seems the fuel pump starts instantly (I have a fuel pump indicator light on my engine panel so I keep a close eye on it).

                  If you're a keep it simple sort, I'd avoid the start switch override altogether. Simpler to wire in the first place, simpler to troubleshoot later.
                  Last edited by ndutton; 02-02-2012, 08:39 PM. Reason: 'cause I felt like it
                  Neil
                  1977 Catalina 30
                  San Pedro, California
                  prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
                  Had my hands in a few others

                  Comment

                  • southcoasting
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 164

                    #24
                    I see...That makes sense...

                    Thanks everyone...

                    I will try to simplify this setup and see what I come up with...Will keep you guys posted...
                    1971 Tartan 34C Sloop "NOVA LUNA", Rebuilt (2019) Fresh Water Cooled A4 (Bought boat in 2014)
                    1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)

                    Comment

                    • southcoasting
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2011
                      • 164

                      #25
                      Thank you all SO MUCH! I was able to troubleshoot and figure out what is what with your help...You guys are the "A-BOMB"!

                      So, I was able to do quite a few things recently to get this thing ready for next week's on "the hard start". Trying to get the boat launched by end of April...

                      While getting things ready (normal maintenance as recommended here before first season start), I realized Hanley and others were right about the OPSS wiring...One wire was coming from the starter and the other from the coil...So I will be wiring the new replaced switch with only the +Coil wire and remove the +Starter wire to keep it simple...

                      I also confirmed the black wire from the first picture coming from the oil gauge seems to be a power cable, prob for the gauge light as edwardc suggested...

                      Buying some batteries this weekend and looking try to start this thing for the first time next week...Will keep you guys updated on the progress...
                      1971 Tartan 34C Sloop "NOVA LUNA", Rebuilt (2019) Fresh Water Cooled A4 (Bought boat in 2014)
                      1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)

                      Comment

                      • hanleyclifford
                        Afourian MVP
                        • Mar 2010
                        • 6994

                        #26
                        In 99% of cases Neil is right about not needing the override circuit from the "R" terminal on the solenoid to get the fuel pump running before oil pressure is achieved. In fact on my boat I don't want fuel pump or ignition until at least 7 psi oil pressure is attained. FWIW, sometimes the "R" terminal is used to provide a coil resistor override to "goose" the voltage to the ignition during cranking.

                        Comment

                        • magi
                          Frequent Contributor
                          • Dec 2021
                          • 5

                          #27
                          OPSS Jumped Out

                          How bad of an idea is running with the OPSS jumped out ?

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                          • msmith10
                            Afourian MVP
                            • Jun 2006
                            • 475

                            #28
                            The purpose of the OPPS is to turn off the fuel pump if the engine is not running, thus preventing the pump from forcing fuel into the carb and potentially spilling into the bilge. If I were away my home port and the OPPS malfunctioned, I would bypass it to get home, then fix it. I would not leave it bypassed as this would create a potentially unsafe condition, would certainly void the insurance, and is just an unseamanlike thing to do.
                            It's such an easy fix- screw out screw in.
                            Mark Smith
                            1977 c&c30 Mk1 hailing from Port Clinton, Ohio

                            Comment

                            • joe_db
                              Afourian MVP
                              • May 2009
                              • 4523

                              #29
                              Originally posted by ndutton View Post
                              It's my opinion the override adds unnecessary wiring complexity to a basic A-4. There is ample residual fuel in the carb bowl to get the engine started without any help from the fuel pump. Once started the oil pressure rises so quickly it seems the fuel pump starts instantly (I have a fuel pump indicator light on my engine panel so I keep a close eye on it).

                              If you're a keep it simple sort, I'd avoid the start switch override altogether. Simpler to wire in the first place, simpler to troubleshoot later.
                              I have a manual button for the override. If I have run the fuel out after shutdown, I use it. If the engine was just turned off still showing fuel pressure, it is not needed.
                              Joe Della Barba
                              Coquina
                              C&C 35 MK I
                              Maryland USA

                              Comment

                              • capnward
                                Afourian MVP
                                • Aug 2012
                                • 335

                                #30
                                More mechanical fuel pump advocacy

                                Just a reminder, if you have a mechanical fuel pump (there I go again!), there is no need to override or bypass anything electrical to get fuel pressure with the engine off. You just manually pump the bail underneath the pump until the resistance disappears and your fuel pressure gauge reads 3 or so. This way the engine will start sooner and not have to crank for a while to get fuel from the tank to the carb. And as Joe said, if you have been running recently there will be adequate fuel in the carb to start.

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