Re-Sleeve

[13jeff13]

I am new here, as in been lurking for about 6 months, and have really enjoyed all the threads. Very Knowledgeable group here. I am pulling my A4 for the winter as she has been sitting for 4 years prior to me and with water in the oil pan and some pretty corroded parts, Carb, Fuel Pump. She is currently seized, I didn't want to do any damage forcing things , and I tried all the methods mentioned here online, MMO, Screwdriver thru the stater Hole, Bottom line is I want a Clean Mill and Fresh Gaskets, Oily in the Bilge, And This site has been a Real Inspiration. My A4 is in a 30' Grampian, and is sitting on a trailer in my driveway, Mast Down. First order of business is to get her out and on my workbench. I am thinking of using a Man reach, although I had seen a man use a ladder with a plywood jig to keep the engine level, I might use that method.

Oh yeah,, at some point in the near past it looks like someone had went thru the exhaust system and installed a plastic bottle like water lift and new to the engine.

ALL THAT SAID Where does one get sleeves for re-sleeve?

Thanks in advance,, I appreciate all info, and advice.

Jeff

S/V Karinya

[13jeff13]

Re Size

I would be very interested in learning how to re SIZE my Pics too.

Sorry for so Big..

Jeff

[13jeff13]

Water Strainer Culprit

It was the corroded water strainer that caused the leak that lead to the water damage... But I got the whole rig, trailer included on ebay for 2500,, and I needed a new driveway project. I am looking forward to going through all the systems, and making her pin up worthy if I don't find too many issues.

After realizing strainers run around $400, I decided to use CLR and Sandblaster and replacing the corroded parts.

[13jeff13]

Kroil

Great Stuff KROIL,, I have soaked everything with it.

Great tip,, from you guys.

Jeff

[Mo]

Hi Welcome aboard.

You said your engine was siezed. Pour Vinegar down the spark plug holes and let it sit for a day. Vinegar eats rust and it works. The next day pour in some more vinegar and let it sit again for about a day. Don't be shy with the vinegar, pour at least a cup into each spark plug hole...or more!

On the 3rd day take your starting handle and try to turn it over. If you cannot turn it over by hand DON'T hit with a hammer. Continue vinegar.

It will likely turn right over for you on the 3rd day unless there is major rust holding those rings and pistons onto the cylinder wall. If this is the case pour in some more vinegar and let it sit again. Continue until it turns over with the crank handle.

You will have to clean the base pan well following this as dissolved rust particles / vinegar rust will run past the rings into the base pan. Once the engine turns over with the crank pour some MMO into the spark plug holes just to lub the cylinder walls.

Try that and let us know how you do. Usually works well to free rings that are stuck due to rust also. Ensure you clean the base pan well and oil change before starting.

[Mo]

Regarding the Re-sleeve. I know of one member on this site that has had it done or did it himself. His name is Hanley Clifford and is a wealth of info.

You will likely have to send it to a machine shop or engine rebuild place to have it done. Hanley could certainly send you in the right direction on that one.

I would think that if you are taking the engine out for sure it is worth checking that block and doing a re-sleeve if you can manage it.

Best Regards,

[Mo]

Grampion 30 is a strong boat...another one tough as nail...as are most of the older ones. When you get your engine out have a look at the section where the prop shaft exits the boat. It runs from the exit point on the outside of the hull into the coupler area for the shaft. Shaft runs through it...like a tunnel.

There is a section there that was made of metal (might be enclosed in fiberglass) It is known to corrode and leak on the Grampion 30. When you have the engine out that would be a good time to overhaul / replace that. It is about at its lifespan now if it hasn't been done.

I saw one rusted out on a Grampion 30 and he had to retrieve the boat immediately for repair. On another note...if is looks like good solid metal it probably is.

You will have more room in there to check it and do the refurb without the engine in the way. If it leaks you will not notice it until you go to launch and will have to take her out to fix it.

[sastanley]

Jeff...welcome.

If you are running Windows XP still there is a nice "power toy" that re-sized pictures with the right click of the mouse.

If you've shifted to Vista or Windows 7, I'd recommend the free program "paint.NET" - it is a free download, and much more powerful than any of the garbage that comes with Windows (old MS Paint for example).

if you install paint.NET, you simply open the pic in that program and there is an 'image' menu option up in the top left, you select 'resize' until appropriate, and then save. I find 1024x768 is about right.

As Mo commented, hanley is the re-sleeve expert.

[13jeff13]

Thanks Maurice, Great Info, I hadn't heard of that being a problem area for the G30's. I will be on board tomorrow and will get a pic of that area, and add. It looks as if that someone had put in a coupler there , ,, maybe a drip-less coupling I had read about? Where exactly is the Cutlass Bearing? Is that the same piece of metal you are referring to? I will take some pics. I think it may be a little to late for Vinegar. The motor seems well taken care of from PO. But I am planning for the worst and hopeful for the best. I did take the tranny cover off and sucked all the water/oil out with my shop vac, before the freezing weather set in. It was more oil than water, and MMO in there too evidenced by the empty quart in the engine compartment.

I have been squirting KROIL into the spark plug holes for a couple of months, and used a Socket, slotted out for the roll pin, on a breaker bar to try and turn her over,, No Luck. I don't have the Hand Crank yet for her, I will be getting that From MMI.

Thanks

Jeff

S/V Karinya

[13jeff13]

"As Mo commented, hanley is the re-sleeve expert."

Thanks Maurice & Sastanley,, I believe that is where I first heard of doing such a thing was from Hanley. Whoever,, suggested that if was RW cooled to think hard about doing that if she is broke down anyway. I didn't see any re-sleeve parts on the MMI site so that got me wondering,, where and how. I hope I don't have those problems, But I will be digging in soon, and will have to have a plan.

And yes Windows XP, I'll look into the power toy.


Jeff

[hanleyclifford]

Jeff - Let me add my welcome to the forum. Looks like you have a fun project and you definitely came to the right place. As far as re-sleeving is concerned, that is a decision to be made once you get the block stripped and off to the machine shop. If the engine has been raw water cooled and is seized the odds are strong you need resleeving, but don't jump to that conclusion. If you are doing a rebuild I would stop efforts to unseize the engine while in the boat. If you don't already have one you need to get a copy of the Moyer Marine Overhaul and Service Manual. Careful disassembly and orderly labeling of parts will pay big dividends. Take care of that alternator - I'm green with envy. Regards, Hanley

[sastanley]

Jeff, not many have XP anymore (however, I personally have XP on 3 of my 4 personal PC's because I think it is pretty stable..i have one laptop with Vista, and personally haven't had any problems, but it keeps telling me that it thinks I am a dumb user all of the time ) and even our office is still running XP on our work computers.

I'd still recommend paint.NET for a free graphics program, but the powertoy picture resizer is great for quick re-size of the huge pics that most cameras take these days.

here is a link to the power toys...

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx

I would think that a re=sleeve would be done by a local machine shop. I would work closely with them and make sure they are aware of all the Moyer parts (size details, etc.., or I even bet Don Moyer himself wouldn't mind talking to them) to make sure they understand the deal and don't screw it up.

[13jeff13]

Thanks Hanley, and all. Don't be too envious, you should see the the corroded regulator,, I am currently< no pun intended, looking for a new regulator. I am a keep it simple kind of guy, and have been envious of others with the original regulator built in alternator. Although, I have been in contact with the Balmar people, and they have been very informative, and I have been convinced that the PO had made a Great Up Grade. The Regulator however was mounted right next to the RW strainer, and it took a major hit corrosion wise,, no Amount of CLR or Sandblasting will fix it.

I will try to get the Poweroys to make viewing better,, I have noticed with my older XP setup that if I right click on a photo that is too large,, i.e. mine it does re-size it.

I truly appreciate the great wealth of Knowledge here, and with the help desk at MMI. I have been a "gear head" all my life, with Chevy products, and this is a whole new realm for me, But I do understand engines, and am an electrician by trade, so I have a couple of pluses coming in.
But every day is a learning experience, and I learn every day how little I know.

THAT SAID I enjoy the camaraderie here, and appreciate you ALL enormously.

Sincerely

Jeff

S/V Karinya

p.s. How do you get the automatic tag line on the bottom of your post?

[13jeff13]

To View at regular size was actually right click and then select view image.. re sizes it.

Jeff

[ndutton]

p.s. How do you get the automatic tag line on the bottom of your post?

Upper left, User CP - edit signature.

And welcome from a fellow sparky.