1971 Ericson 32 Won't Start?

[Zaldog]

Hi All,

I am a newbie here but not to sailboats or sailing. This will be my fourth. I Recently acquired a nice old gal Isle Marin a racing verteran here in Chicago.

The old A4 is not wanting to start! I have replaced the starting battery replaced the plugs removed the distributor to clean the points, and low and behold no points? So I assume it is the ignitor electronic ignition in the distributor. (see picture). I found a box with parts in it which included the old points condenser and rotor and new condensor and rotor spares. Could the electronic ignition be shot. As far As i can tell i am not getting spark and noticed that the coil after cranking several times gets HOT!? I am not a A4 guy first one I have had to deal with so I am just doing basic engine troubleshotting which is failing at this point.

Any help from you Afourians would be gratefully appreciated as I need to get the boat started so I can move it to the storage marina and winterize the engine this week, otherwise I will have to tow it in. I am also looking for a local Mechanic if anyones know of someone trust worthy in the chicago area.

Thanks!

[hanleyclifford]

Grand Entry

Welcome to the Forum. Your problem is one of our favorite hot button issues and you will find plenty of reading under "coil" threads. Sounds like your coil is shot. You are going to need a voltmeter to work on the problem. Start at coil +. Edit: OTOH, if you want to by pass the debate, get a new coil from Moyer Marine and an ICR 13 from NAPA (coil resistor) and you will be happy.

[joe_db]

The igniter could well be shot.
The rotor looks shot as well.
I would do this:
First off, check the coil. Use one test lead to connect coil - to ground and another test lead run to + 12 volts. You need the high voltage wire from the coil that would normally lead to the distributor held so it is around 1/4" from the block. Take the + 12V test lead and touch it to the coil and then remove it quickly. You should see a spark from the coil HV lead to the block. If you do not, the coil is beat. If you do, proceed to step 2.
Second, connect the coil + and - as normal and still hold the coil HV wire near the block. Have someone crank the engine. You should see a spark every second (maybe 1/2 second) as the engine turns. If not, the igniter is beat.

Moyer sells igniters and also the correct ignition coils for our engines.

[Dave Neptune]

Zaldog, again welcome to the MMI forum. You need to look at this no start one thing at a time.

As your coil was hot you must have left the key on a bit while tinkering true? If so lets look at it first. Did it create a spark? Also does the C-advance work smoothly?

How long has the boat sat since starting? And does it spin nicely on the starter?

The three things we need to look at are first the ignition to be sure we can make a spark. Second we will confirm it has enough compression to start. And third the fuel system and it's components one at a time.

Doing these one at a time is very easy and it can get very frustrating if you try to many things at once~this is good advise!!

Dave Neptune

[Zaldog]

Thanks for the welcome and all your responses.

I did find a spare coil ( I think it was wrapped up like it was) I will try that and if it does not work I am going to buy a new one as time is of the essence now. Maybe a new distributor and igniter as well. I am assuming this is an earlier model A4 being a 1972 how do I tell?

In terms of the IRC coil resister does that connect on the + side between the ignition switch and coil?

It is a push button start so I may have left the ignition switch on while messing around.

The boat has been a little neglected the past year. I do know it started about 2 weeks ago because they moved it from one slip to another and after that it has not started.

[joe_db]

1972 is new model. I am not sure you need a new distributor, but a new rotor, cap, and lubing the advance mechanism would be in order.
I would not go buy anything before you do the tests mentioned and see what is defective. You also can save some wiring by using the Moyer coil that does not need a resistor.

Thanks for the welcome and all your responses.

I did find a spare coil ( I think it was wrapped up like it was) I will try that and if it does not work I am going to buy a new one as time is of the essence now. Maybe a new distributor and igniter as well. I am assuming this is an earlier model A4 being a 1972 how do I tell?

In terms of the IRC coil resister does that connect on the + side between the ignition switch and coil?

It is a push button start so I may have left the ignition switch on while messing around.

The boat has been a little neglected the past year. I do know it started about 2 weeks ago because they moved it from one slip to another and after that it has not started.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Have you been keeping the valve to the raw water pump closed while you've been no start cranking?

TRUE GRIT

[Zaldog]

Yea I meant a new Cap and rotor, what gets lubed? which Moyer coil does not need a resistor?

I have tried with it closed and open what is the correct procedure raw water closed?

Thanks again guys.

[JOHN COOKSON]

The best practice is to crank a no start engine with the valve to the raw water pump closed. Then as soon as the engine starts open the valve.
It's possible, depending on the boat and exhaust system design, when you no start crank for cooling water to accumulate in the exhaust system with lack of exhaust pressure to force it out and get into the manifold then into the engine.

TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

This page is useful:

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=IGLM&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html

You can see the breaker plate, which is what you remove to check the advance springs. Also coils and igniters.

[Antibes]

I am on C dock at Belmont, but leaving Wed morning. Do you still need a hand?

[Zaldog]

Thanks Antibes for the offer I am at Jackson Park doc B trying to get down there on Tuesday or Wed to put in a new coil to see if that is the issue which I hope it is. Planing to move her to storage at 31st Street on Thursday.

[ndutton]

I have replaced the starting battery replaced the plugs removed the distributor to clean the points, and low and behold no points?

To clarify, did you actually remove the distributor completely out of the engine or was it just the plastic distributor cap? Removed, the distributor looks like this:

[Zaldog]

No I only removed the cap like pictured

[ndutton]

Good to know, eliminates a huge issue.