Stuck Crank Handle

[Cave_Dog]

HOLY crap...

After finding the fuel leaking from the flame arrestor connection to the carb, I popped the flame arrestor off and CANNOT believe what I saw. It is covered in gross junk, mud, dirt, white stuff, etc. I JUST got done pulling the carb and cleaning everything with carb cleaner, toothbrushes, and compressed air. What is this disgusting stuff and where did it come from?

Inside the Carb


Inside the Flame Arrestor



Cave Dog

[hanleyclifford]

It is possible that your fuel tank is being nicely cleaned by the ethanol-infested fuel, the junk then deposited in your carb. Do you have a fuel filter/separator?

[Cave_Dog]

Fuel Filter

Yes, I've got a regular Fuel Filter from the fuel tank AND an in-line fuel filter from the pump to the carb.

[hanleyclifford]

Roger that. Check those elements for overloading.

[lat 64]

Is that disgusting stuff in the carb from the cylinders.
Cave dog said there was no compression—maybe the intake valves are stuck open, and that gunk got pushed back from the manifold and cylinders.
He said "NO dug-diga-dug sound". No compression?
Just a thought
R.

[Cave_Dog]

Update:

I checked both filters and the fuel filter is pristine, while the much older in-line filter is OLD but still clean. I jammed my finger up into the manifold and felt around, and out came my finger along with all the crud.

I also noted that I have an oil leak somewhere, as I put in a whole 5 quarts when it was extremely low about a month ago and it all wound up in my bilge. Yay!

So now I'm at figuring out how to clean this crud out of the engine and finding my oil leak and fixing that as well as figuring out the cause of my lack of Compression. I know how to address the oil leak issue but I'm not sure where to start on how to clean out the engine and/or get compression. Back to the manual...

Exhausted & Bummed
Cave Dog

[Dave Neptune]

The stuff!

Cave Dog, the stuff is from the cylinders while breaking her loose~~that krap is why it is so hard to get restarted. You could pull off the carb and let the manifold drain. Look again at the plugs they are porobably covered with the same stuff.It can be a real pain to get it started after what the lil beastie has been through. I wish my engine looked that good when I got it loose and started 26 years ago !!!

From the look of your engine I'd say once you get it tuned after starting you will be very happy you did.

If you wish shoot me a direct E-scud and I'll forward a contact number.

Your almost there!!!
Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Part II

Cave Dog, just let the carb drain when you remove, the inside of the carb should still be fine!! Should of mentioned that~~oops.

Dave Neptune

[67c&ccorv]

I checked both filters and the fuel filter is pristine, while the much older in-line filter is OLD but still clean. I jammed my finger up into the manifold and felt around, and out came my finger along with all the crud.

I also noted that I have an oil leak somewhere, as I put in a whole 5 quarts when it was extremely low about a month ago and it all wound up in my bilge. Yay!

So now I'm at figuring out how to clean this crud out of the engine and finding my oil leak and fixing that as well as figuring out the cause of my lack of Compression. I know how to address the oil leak issue but I'm not sure where to start on how to clean out the engine and/or get compression. Back to the manual...

Exhausted & Bummed
Cave Dog

Because 5 quarts of oil is too much for an A-4 - look up the capacities in this forum!

Seriously Bud; you really should learn about the engine first - then learn how to wrench on it second - before you do anything more to damage what looks like a pristine A-4!

That, or let someone who knows what they are doing do the work for you.

Cheers!

[Koerk]

Help

Good day,

Last June 2017, I purchased a C&C 27, knowing nothing about engines I just prayed nothing happened so I can just sail... Canada Day my engine died in a brilliant cloud of white smoke. After cranking the engine a few times to no success I through in the towel and broke out the MM A4 manual. Turns out I should have closed the raw water intake while cranking. Turning off the raw water intake I pulled all the spark plugs and cranked and cranked collecting all the water on shop towels adding some MMO, I cranked some more. After I was satisfied that there was no significant moisture in my cylinders I followed my friends advice and pulled the carb. Turns out there was some water and crud in the fuel, the carb was pretty crystallized. After cleaning the carb with some motormaster break cleaner and gasoline the boat and engine sat till November. after re-installing the carb I could not get the engine to start. I winterized the engine by draining the block through the plug under the water pump then cranking it over drawing anti freeze from a bucket untill it ran out the drain of the water lift muffler.

June 2018, I took the starting motor off and tried to turn the crankshaft with the crank handle siezed. Reading this thread I added some fluid film to try and loosen up any corrosion that may be in the cylinders and I let it sit for Three hours. again it wouldnt budge I actually snapped the 1/2" drive trying to work it. What should I do now? I'm half tempted to pull the engine and do a rebuild, but I very much would like to my boat through the locks to its new home port.

Cheers,

[Dave Neptune]

Koerk, you should probably take this to it's own thread.

When you tried to turn the engine by hand or with the crank handle did you move in BOTH directions? It is very important to move the crank both directions when freeing stuck rings. Did you try prying carefully on the flywheel teeth in BOTH directions. If not give this a try.

What was the cloud of white smoke when dying? An overheat?

The biggest deal in getting a stuck engine to spin again is patience and constantly moving in BOTH directions.

Any info may help.

Dave Neptune