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  • hanleyclifford
    Afourian MVP
    • Mar 2010
    • 6994

    #16
    Originally posted by ndutton View Post
    You recall correctly Sam.


    Be careful not to get myopic about coil resistance or system voltage alone. As explained in the Pertronix treatment I recently posted, they work in tandem and their quotient is critical to a reliable electronic ignition system.
    Be careful not to get myopic about instructions from Pertronix since they are not exhaustive in solving electrical issues on boats where the syetem can be much more complicated than an automobile and where there is no such thing as "system voltage" except when all accessories are at rest.

    Comment

    • stranded-sailor
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2023
      • 29

      #17
      Good morning gentleman. Back again. Have put new coil on today and no spark. So thats plugs, cap, button and coil. Am I missing something stupid? Or can it be the ei module? Really getting stuck as I've got a haul out to get to on Monday.

      Comment

      • Dave Neptune
        Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
        • Jan 2007
        • 5050

        #18
        Again, do you have voltage at the coil when the key is on? Very important!!!

        Turn the key off immediately after checking. Remember always if you leave the key on without the engine running even for a short time you can "kill" the coil!

        If you don't the problem is between the key and the coil. If no voltage I can explain how to "hot wire" to check the ign system and/or possibly get you going.

        Dave Neptune

        Comment

        • stranded-sailor
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2023
          • 29

          #19
          Originally posted by Dave Neptune View Post
          Again, do you have voltage at the coil when the key is on? Very important!!!

          Turn the key off immediately after checking. Remember always if you leave the key on without the engine running even for a short time you can "kill" the coil!

          If you don't the problem is between the key and the coil. If no voltage I can explain how to "hot wire" to check the ign system and/or possibly get you going.

          Dave Neptune
          There is voltage at the coil

          Comment

          • Dave Neptune
            Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
            • Jan 2007
            • 5050

            #20
            Great. Now if you pull the coil lead out of the dist cap is there spark when you crank?
            If you have spark at the coil then check for spark at the plug wires.
            Did you possibly leave the rotor out of the dist?
            Inspect the wire from the + post of the coil to the inside of the cap. Is it pinched cut or compromised in any way? Take a good look.

            Coil check. Remove the wires from the negative post of the coil. Turn the key on so there is power to the positive on the coil and remove the center coil wire from the distributor. Fasten it to something so you have about a 1/4 inch gap from the wire to the block. have a wire clipped of fastened to the negative side of the coil. Then turn on the key and ground the wire from the negative post this should throw a spark and it should be blue and snappy not yellow and fuzzy. Blue is a good spark and yellow is weak. This will confirm if the coil is good or not.

            If you get a good spark either the Pertronics unit is bad or the wire to it is broken and no power to the unit.

            Dave Neptune

            Comment

            • joe_db
              Afourian MVP
              • May 2009
              • 4527

              #21
              Originally posted by Dave Neptune View Post
              Great. Now if you pull the coil lead out of the dist cap is there spark when you crank?
              If you have spark at the coil then check for spark at the plug wires.
              Did you possibly leave the rotor out of the dist?
              Inspect the wire from the + post of the coil to the inside of the cap. Is it pinched cut or compromised in any way? Take a good look.

              Coil check. Remove the wires from the negative post of the coil. Turn the key on so there is power to the positive on the coil and remove the center coil wire from the distributor. Fasten it to something so you have about a 1/4 inch gap from the wire to the block. have a wire clipped of fastened to the negative side of the coil. Then turn on the key and ground the wire from the negative post this should throw a spark and it should be blue and snappy not yellow and fuzzy. Blue is a good spark and yellow is weak. This will confirm if the coil is good or not.

              If you get a good spark either the Pertronics unit is bad or the wire to it is broken and no power to the unit.

              Dave Neptune
              To amplify that, you'll get a weak spark when you connect and much stronger spark when you disconnect. Brush the wire past the negative coil for a brief connection and you should get a strong spark.
              Attached Files
              Joe Della Barba
              Coquina
              C&C 35 MK I
              Maryland USA

              Comment

              • stranded-sailor
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2023
                • 29

                #22
                Originally posted by Dave Neptune View Post
                Great. Now if you pull the coil lead out of the dist cap is there spark when you crank?
                If you have spark at the coil then check for spark at the plug wires.
                Did you possibly leave the rotor out of the dist?
                Inspect the wire from the + post of the coil to the inside of the cap. Is it pinched cut or compromised in any way? Take a good look.

                Coil check. Remove the wires from the negative post of the coil. Turn the key on so there is power to the positive on the coil and remove the center coil wire from the distributor. Fasten it to something so you have about a 1/4 inch gap from the wire to the block. have a wire clipped of fastened to the negative side of the coil. Then turn on the key and ground the wire from the negative post this should throw a spark and it should be blue and snappy not yellow and fuzzy. Blue is a good spark and yellow is weak. This will confirm if the coil is good or not.

                If you get a good spark either the Pertronics unit is bad or the wire to it is broken and no power to the unit.

                Dave Neptune
                Thanks for this Dave. I did a good check and did find that the + wire from the ei was brittle, insulation looked good but when pulled a bit it tore and split. I cut out bad wire and had a few inches of good left. I soldered a new piece on. Put all back together and still no start. I did check the coil as you suggested and had good blue spark from coil

                Comment

                • Dave Neptune
                  Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 5050

                  #23
                  Now we're into the checking of the Pertronics unit itself where I am of little use. However as most "electronic units" are not serviceable for repair I will guess that the unit is fried. For the "wire" you found to be brittle tells me it did overheat and possibly the wire is indicative of something frying inside the unit itself. It is an easy fix as it is only money.

                  An electronic engineer friend of mine told me one day~~"All you need to know about electronics is if you let the smoke out it's shot". I tend to stick to that due to your brittle wire.

                  You have confirmed that everything should work but the switching (throwing of the spark) is working and that is what the unit does as it is just a fancy switch much like the points.

                  Dave Neptune

                  Comment

                  • stranded-sailor
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2023
                    • 29

                    #24
                    So as this is new to me ill ask you what the best fix is. Is there a newer ei for this? Are points actually better? Remembering im in Canada where is best to source part?

                    Comment

                    • joe_db
                      Afourian MVP
                      • May 2009
                      • 4527

                      #25
                      Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits to replace original mechanical points & troublesome factory ignition. Dependable, maintenance free, and easy to install. Never Replace Points Again. The Original Ignitor is ideal for restorations.

                      That looks right


                      That one is 100% right for sure.

                      I wouldn't try reverting to points. This is a buy once-cry once deal.
                      Joe Della Barba
                      Coquina
                      C&C 35 MK I
                      Maryland USA

                      Comment

                      • Dave Neptune
                        Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
                        • Jan 2007
                        • 5050

                        #26
                        It is pointless to go back to points . A lil points pun.

                        In these old distributors the point cams are pretty worn out so proper setting is a PIA and you really would need a dwell meter. Once you set the EI's timing your done! Except for lubing the C-advance when you change oil and that is not necessary every time.

                        These distributors were equipped with a lubricating felt under the rotor. Take a look under your rotor to see if it is still there. Just add a 5~6 drops of oil and it is good for a long time. This lubes both the counter shaft and the C-advance. The C-advance should be checked periodically just to see that it moves freely and springs back.

                        You may be able to source a Pertronics or equivalent in Ca. The distributor as a standard Delco 4 cylinder distributor which is in almost every General Motors 4 cylinder engine.

                        Do follow the guidelines on this site for choosing the proper resistor for voltage control of the coil.

                        Dave Neptune

                        Comment

                        • hanleyclifford
                          Afourian MVP
                          • Mar 2010
                          • 6994

                          #27
                          During your starting attempts with the new coil have you had a resistor in front of that coil?

                          Comment

                          • stranded-sailor
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2023
                            • 29

                            #28
                            First one looks to be exactly what I have. Now to source in Canada though. Thank you all for the information.

                            Comment

                            • joe_db
                              Afourian MVP
                              • May 2009
                              • 4527

                              #29
                              Surely Amazon or Pertronix will send stuff to Canada?
                              Joe Della Barba
                              Coquina
                              C&C 35 MK I
                              Maryland USA

                              Comment

                              • joe_db
                                Afourian MVP
                                • May 2009
                                • 4527

                                #30


                                FYI some good reading, but still the same issue of shipping as everything else.
                                Joe Della Barba
                                Coquina
                                C&C 35 MK I
                                Maryland USA

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