Originally posted by ndutton
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No spark
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Again, do you have voltage at the coil when the key is on? Very important!!!
Turn the key off immediately after checking. Remember always if you leave the key on without the engine running even for a short time you can "kill" the coil!
If you don't the problem is between the key and the coil. If no voltage I can explain how to "hot wire" to check the ign system and/or possibly get you going.
Dave Neptune
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Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostAgain, do you have voltage at the coil when the key is on? Very important!!!
Turn the key off immediately after checking. Remember always if you leave the key on without the engine running even for a short time you can "kill" the coil!
If you don't the problem is between the key and the coil. If no voltage I can explain how to "hot wire" to check the ign system and/or possibly get you going.
Dave Neptune
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Great. Now if you pull the coil lead out of the dist cap is there spark when you crank?
If you have spark at the coil then check for spark at the plug wires.
Did you possibly leave the rotor out of the dist?
Inspect the wire from the + post of the coil to the inside of the cap. Is it pinched cut or compromised in any way? Take a good look.
Coil check. Remove the wires from the negative post of the coil. Turn the key on so there is power to the positive on the coil and remove the center coil wire from the distributor. Fasten it to something so you have about a 1/4 inch gap from the wire to the block. have a wire clipped of fastened to the negative side of the coil. Then turn on the key and ground the wire from the negative post this should throw a spark and it should be blue and snappy not yellow and fuzzy. Blue is a good spark and yellow is weak. This will confirm if the coil is good or not.
If you get a good spark either the Pertronics unit is bad or the wire to it is broken and no power to the unit.
Dave Neptune
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Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostGreat. Now if you pull the coil lead out of the dist cap is there spark when you crank?
If you have spark at the coil then check for spark at the plug wires.
Did you possibly leave the rotor out of the dist?
Inspect the wire from the + post of the coil to the inside of the cap. Is it pinched cut or compromised in any way? Take a good look.
Coil check. Remove the wires from the negative post of the coil. Turn the key on so there is power to the positive on the coil and remove the center coil wire from the distributor. Fasten it to something so you have about a 1/4 inch gap from the wire to the block. have a wire clipped of fastened to the negative side of the coil. Then turn on the key and ground the wire from the negative post this should throw a spark and it should be blue and snappy not yellow and fuzzy. Blue is a good spark and yellow is weak. This will confirm if the coil is good or not.
If you get a good spark either the Pertronics unit is bad or the wire to it is broken and no power to the unit.
Dave NeptuneJoe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Maryland USA
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Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostGreat. Now if you pull the coil lead out of the dist cap is there spark when you crank?
If you have spark at the coil then check for spark at the plug wires.
Did you possibly leave the rotor out of the dist?
Inspect the wire from the + post of the coil to the inside of the cap. Is it pinched cut or compromised in any way? Take a good look.
Coil check. Remove the wires from the negative post of the coil. Turn the key on so there is power to the positive on the coil and remove the center coil wire from the distributor. Fasten it to something so you have about a 1/4 inch gap from the wire to the block. have a wire clipped of fastened to the negative side of the coil. Then turn on the key and ground the wire from the negative post this should throw a spark and it should be blue and snappy not yellow and fuzzy. Blue is a good spark and yellow is weak. This will confirm if the coil is good or not.
If you get a good spark either the Pertronics unit is bad or the wire to it is broken and no power to the unit.
Dave Neptune
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Now we're into the checking of the Pertronics unit itself where I am of little use. However as most "electronic units" are not serviceable for repair I will guess that the unit is fried. For the "wire" you found to be brittle tells me it did overheat and possibly the wire is indicative of something frying inside the unit itself. It is an easy fix as it is only money.
An electronic engineer friend of mine told me one day~~"All you need to know about electronics is if you let the smoke out it's shot". I tend to stick to that due to your brittle wire.
You have confirmed that everything should work but the switching (throwing of the spark) is working and that is what the unit does as it is just a fancy switch much like the points.
Dave Neptune
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Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits to replace original mechanical points & troublesome factory ignition. Dependable, maintenance free, and easy to install. Never Replace Points Again. The Original Ignitor is ideal for restorations.
That looks right
That one is 100% right for sure.
I wouldn't try reverting to points. This is a buy once-cry once deal.Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Maryland USA
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It is pointless to go back to points . A lil points pun.
In these old distributors the point cams are pretty worn out so proper setting is a PIA and you really would need a dwell meter. Once you set the EI's timing your done! Except for lubing the C-advance when you change oil and that is not necessary every time.
These distributors were equipped with a lubricating felt under the rotor. Take a look under your rotor to see if it is still there. Just add a 5~6 drops of oil and it is good for a long time. This lubes both the counter shaft and the C-advance. The C-advance should be checked periodically just to see that it moves freely and springs back.
You may be able to source a Pertronics or equivalent in Ca. The distributor as a standard Delco 4 cylinder distributor which is in almost every General Motors 4 cylinder engine.
Do follow the guidelines on this site for choosing the proper resistor for voltage control of the coil.
Dave Neptune
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Originally posted by joe_db View Posthttps://pertronixbrands.com/products...delco-4-cyl-cw
That looks right
That one is 100% right for sure.
I wouldn't try reverting to points. This is a buy once-cry once deal.
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