Busted manifold stud

[romantic comedy]

If I get the picture, the stud is stuck in the manifold? Seems like you can either grind it off, or twist it off.

Can you get a vice grip on the broken end? Then turn the nut off, or break the stud. Of course that is not the big problem...

[hanleyclifford]

Shawn, the tap is 7/16" x 14 (TPI) calls for a "U" bit. Do a good cleaning and let's have a look see.

[sastanley]

RC..you get the picture...I am just trying to gather some information fro the old stud with the help of the forum before destroying it to get it out..and, yes...that isn't the big problem. That information gathering is to help in figuring out what I will be dealing with on the business end (the block).

I squirted some brand X 'penetrating oil' on it last night (no Kroil here...need to mail order me some of that stuff!) I can likely get a vice grips on the nubby. If that fails, I'll just cut the nut off with a Dremel cut-off wheel.

[joe_db]

I know I am getting boring with this - but I would absolutely take the engine out. Unless you are so lucky as to have perfect threads on the block and only the studs corroded, you will set yourself up for rounds 2,3 and 4

[sastanley]

Joe, Don't worry...I am keeping your warnings in mind. I started prepping the Admiral today for a possible engine removal.

"Well, how much does it weigh?"
"about 250 lbs since I've already removed lots of parts. I'll need a block & tackle for it."
"Oh, boy..so, is the only way to do this on the hard?"
"Oh, no honey...Russ has pictures of doing it on a snow covered pier! We'll have it easy compared to him..We'll use the boom and slide it off the boat into a trailer at the slip. The biggest issue is remembering to clamp the prop shaft so the boat doesn't sink."

[Al Schober]

Shawn,
Be careful about just running a tap into the block without knowing what was in there previously. If there was only a standard thread, then you can run in a 3/8-16NC tap just fine. If there was a helicoil in there, then there will be a special helicoil thread, about .463-16. If it used to have a repair stud from Moyer, then the threads will probably be 7/16-14NC. This is close in diameter to the helicoil thread, but the pitch is significantly different. I recommending checking the thread in the block using a 3/8-16 bolt and see if the pitch of the threads in the hole match - if so, there was probably a helicoil in there. If not, then try a 7/16-14 bolt. Another possibility is that there was a threaded bushing in there, in which case the threads could be 1/2-13 or 9/16-12.
Best..

Al

[sastanley]

Al..thanks much for those details..the car & trailer are all prepped for china cabinet retrieval in the AM...gotta keep the Admiral happy first, then we get to play with motors second.

I am gonna go to the local hardware store and do exactly as you suggested...pick up a couple of cheap $0.50 bolts to see what fits in the hole without buggering it up...along with a thorough cleanout with carb cleaner/brake cleaner, etc. and some good pics as Hanley suggested.

Oh..and I gotta de-Christmas the house of all the outside lights this weekend too..and I go on work travel on Tuesday..

[sastanley]

Whew...OK, I am back -Hanley..ask and ye shall receive!

Not conclusive yet, Shawn. Before proceeding I would take a 3/8" tap down to the boat and test it in the block. If that is an oversize stud it you should try to get the nut off the other end by soaking in Kroil overnite. Even if the stud is oversize it is possible that only a couple of threads are chewed up in the block. Sure would like to see that hole in the block.

Here's an update. I took some pictures and then proceeded to leave the camera on board and then go on travel last week..

Here are three closeups of the aft manifold stud hole. Using advice here, I got some cheap-o bolts..they were $0.75 instead of $0.50.. , and once I determined the size, I ran a 7/16" thread chaser thru it and it cleaned up very nicely. I think I am going to be OK, and just pick up another Moyer repair stud. It is obvious with these closeups that she was leaking for a while...Will likely need something on the threads..Have had good luck with Permatex unless someone convinces me to use something else.

I also cleaned up the 3/8" holes in the forward two holes as well..they are a little bit tighter than this one...but I think all will be OK.

[lat 64]

Joe, Don't worry...I am keeping your warnings in mind. I started prepping the Admiral today for a possible engine removal.

"Well, how much does it weigh?"
"about 250 lbs since I've already removed lots of parts. I'll need a block & tackle for it."
"Oh, boy..so, is the only way to do this on the hard?"
"Oh, no honey...Russ has pictures of doing it on a snow covered pier! We'll have it easy compared to him..We'll use the boom and slide it off the boat into a trailer at the slip. The biggest issue is remembering to clamp the prop shaft so the boat doesn't sink."

Thank you for making me laugh today. Ya know I also once changed a clutch in an F-150 in the snow too. Are you seeing a pattern here? Yea, I'm really pretty stupid that way, but that makes it less painful somehow.
If you can't work in the snow, you can't live in Alaska.

Tried Old Bay on Halibut tonight. Very tasty!!

I may have a similar leak as you so I'm lurking on this thread.

Cheers,

Russ

[Al Schober]

Congratulations Shawn!
You must be pretty happy finding good metal for the stud replacement. You must also be pretty happy showing off your photo skills. Nice job!

[Ajax]

Looks like you dodged a bullet, man. Get 'er back together so you can some up and help me with my Indigo-tstat and water pump upgrades.

[sastanley]

AL...those three are the best of about 25 pics. I tried no flash but holding a flashlight...I tried a few feet back & zoomed in...I tried everything..with mostly poor results.

Eventually, using the good ol' macro setting with auto flash worked the best. I am fine with the camera being smarter than me. And, with nothing else in the engine bay , access was easy.

[Al Schober]

No Shawn, the cameras are dumb. They only do what you tell them to do - kinda like computers. The best thing about the digital stuff is that they give you the results NOW, so you've got the chance to change things and try again - on the off chance you didn't get it right the first time. Biggest hurdle to clear is lighting, which is my biggest peeve with the point&shoot cameras - they don't see fit to give you even a socket for an off-camera flash! Best way to ruin people pictures is to use the on-camera flash. Oh well..enough..

[sastanley]

Al,
I hear ya..I thought about playing with photography when I was a kid. I had a simple Pentax K-1000 and loved it. The shutter finally failed & it wasn't worth fixing. I know just enough to understand what you mean about the dismal built-in flashes on cameras.

So, I found a product from Permatex at my local NAPA. The part numbers don't quite match up but this is what I was able to deduce that this what they sell to NAPA from permatex.

It is basically this..link to Permatex hi-perf thread sealant.

This stuff was about $15 & the middle tier of pricing. They had a $10 bottle of stuff & also a $20 bottle of "Professional grade" thread sealant, but I cannot find any images.

Trying to decide if it is worth it, or if I just use the thick familiar #1 hard setting Permatex, or do i use the #2.??

Permatex launched their new website in October, and it is fancy, but it is obvious they are still working on the content..not very user friendly yet.

[sastanley]

My "just another repair stud order" turned out to be $150. I had a long list...things like valve cover stud kit, all new studs for the manifold, polishing filter, lots of gaskets & stuff since I have nothing much but the head & block still in the boat, etc.etc..

I am happy to support the Moyer Franchise. I spoke with Ken today (he called me on Wednesday, after I had left an after-hours message on Tuesday) and he hooked me up. As usual...since I placed the order on Wednesday I should receive the shipment on Thursday!

Ken says I should be OK (and recommended) using JB Weld in that pesky 7/16" repair stud in the aft manifold hole, and recommended Loc-tite Red for the sound 3/8" studs.

Thanks again, Don & the entire Moyer crew.