Rusty block

[grant.mckenzie]

Hi,

I recently purchased an engine for a winter project - hoping to overhaul it if it all works out, switch out the existing A4 in my Irwin 28 for it.

Today started the dis-assembly process. Peripheral equipment all came off easily. Removing the head was an absolute bear but got it off after a couple of hours. Do not seem to have gouged the interior surface too badly.

I know that the plate used to access the cooling system had been leaking badly for a long time and would need replacing and that there was some rust below the plate on the block. I was a little surprised how much rust there was after removing the starter motor. Question: is this block viable or should I use it as the base of a funky coffee table project?

Cheers,
Grant.

[ILikeRust]

Hard to tell for sure from the pics, but it looks like it probably is sound enough to me. As long as it's not rusted to the point of being extremely thinned out.

[Cool Beans]

Yeah, but you're biased anyways

I would soundly tap it with a hammer. . .you're not driving framing nails home, but solid taps on good metal will make a nice solid metal on metal "tink" sound. If you punch through or dent the metal, the block is bad

[Al Schober]

Grant,
You'll be pleasantly surprised how little iron it takes to make a LOT of rust. My favorite rust removal tool is an angle grinder (mine's a Bosch - threw away the one from Harbor Freight) and a wire wheel - one where the wires are twisted together like small ropes.
Oh yeah, wear safety glasses with side shields. Otherwise you'll probably get to meet your local opthalmic surgeon (don't ask how I know).
The side plate is a weak link, being plain steel rather than high chrome cast iron. Install a new stainless side plate (Moyer) with studs and nuts. Install the studs (made mine from all-thread) using JB Weld (epoxy).

[ndutton]

Moyer now carries a stud kit

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=OVWJ_14_557

[hanleyclifford]

The biggest worry with a block of unknown condition that has been raw water cooled is the cylinders themselves. They can be very thin especially between 2 and 3 where the water has been blasting. If you are contemplating any long range cruising or for any other reason are making commitment to that engine you should consider re sleeving. At the very least have a machine shop have a look at it.

[grant.mckenzie]

Thanks all. A few judicious taps with a small hammer - sounds OK to my ears. I gave it a once over with an electric drill wire brush and a looks a little better. Next up will be the angle grinder and stud removal.

Today got flywheel and housing off and removed the bolts holding the block to the pan. Some swearing was involved. Block removal next weekend.

[67c&ccorv]

Sounds like a candidate for hot tank cleaning in a caustic solution.

I am a big fan of bead blasting as well.

[Al Schober]

If you're going the hot tank route, be sure to remove the cam bearings. Also, the idler gear. If you remove the oil gallery plugs, then the shop can clean the galleries. Recommend replacing the plugs with socket head plugs ($1 each at my hardware store).

[grant.mckenzie]

Couple of things

1. After 10 mins with an angle grinder the rusty block is looking a lot better

2. of all things I could be stuck on , I'm having trouble removing the output coupling. The manual says to fold back the tabs on the retaining washer before removing the nut, but if I'm looking at the right washer the tabs are quite fix and not easy to bend. Am I looking in the right place?

[ILikeRust]

Looks like your lock tabs are folded back already. Normally one of them would be bent forward, alongside one of the flats of the big hex nut. As long as all three of them are spread-eagled out, flat against the flange, as the two visible in the picture are. As long as the third one looks just like those two, you're good to go.

[grant.mckenzie]

Thanks - all three were indeed flat. My improvised lacrosse stick breaker bar was not beefy enough so had to buy the real thing but the nut is off now.

Now begins the hunt for fine grained 3/8'' bolts to get the coupling off...

[Carl-T705]

Grant,
You'll be pleasantly surprised how little iron it takes to make a LOT of rust. My favorite rust removal tool is an angle grinder (mine's a Bosch - threw away the one from Harbor Freight) and a wire wheel - one where the wires are twisted together like small ropes.
Oh yeah, wear safety glasses with side shields. Otherwise you'll probably get to meet your local opthalmic surgeon (don't ask how I know).
The side plate is a weak link, being plain steel rather than high chrome cast iron. Install a new stainless side plate (Moyer) with studs and nuts. Install the studs (made mine from all-thread) using JB Weld (epoxy).

You may also want to wear leather arm sleeves like welders wear, I pulled several 1 inch stainless steel wires out of both arms on my way to the doctor for a tetnaus shot.

[grant.mckenzie]

Selecting machine shop

Hi - the engine is now completely disassembled and I'm at the point where tolerances need to be checked and machine shop servicing required. Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop in the North-East ( I'm in Southern CT )? Any advice for selecting a shop - presumably there are lots are out there?

Thanks.

[Al Schober]

Grant,
What's worked for me is to go to the shop who does your auto work, and ask them who they send their cylinder heads to for refab.
That got me to my latest shop (CB Fab, Taftville, CT) for some work that I'm quite happy with.