Broken oil pressure sending unit nipple

[romantic comedy]

Dromo, what are those bits? They look like torx. Are they for broken bolt removal?

What is the brand, please tell. Looks interesting.

Guys, please tell us the specific brand that you have had success with. There are many easy outs available.

[roadnsky]

Some of us have replaced the nipple with a short brass hose barb adapter and relocated the sender to an adjacent bulkhead connected with a short length of 300 psi hose (available at NAPA). Mine is an oil pressure sensor array with the gauge sender, electric fuel pump OPSS and Cole-Hersee switch for the EWDS, all securely mounted to a bulkhead.

That is exactly this weekend's project.
Copying Neil's setup to the "T"... (pun intended)

[jstaff]

I would stick to using a USCG A1 fire resistant hose...

Extractors break, like drill bits...

Since the snapped off piece is going into an oil gallery I think it would back out without much effort. It's not like it's going to be rusted in place.

I prefer using the spiral flute style of extractor.

[ndutton]

That is exactly this weekend's project.
Copying Neil's setup to the "T"... (pun intended)

Two Tee's and an elbow in my case. Be sure to run a ground wire from the block to the sensor array.

[hanleyclifford]

I'm not addressing this to anyone in particular and please forgive my incredulity but why in the world would you go back to the same installation that already proved itself (1) delicate and (2) vulnerable? Instead of "Now I make sure I don't go anywhere near the damn thing" why not get it out of its precarious position and never have to make this repair again?

Some of us have replaced the nipple with a short brass hose barb adapter and relocated the sender to an adjacent bulkhead connected with a short length of 300 psi hose (available at NAPA). Mine is an oil pressure sensor array with the gauge sender, electric fuel pump OPSS and Cole-Hersee switch for the EWDS, all securely mounted to a bulkhead.

+ 1 on the above. Unsupported brass nipples in an iron block with weight on the end are a recipe for trouble (personal experience with a brass 1/2" manifold discharge). Convert to barb and hose/copper tubing, and go to iron/steel on the big stuff.

[joe_db]

Totally different demands than fuel hose. Fuel hose needs to be ethanol-proof and fire resistant. Oil hose needs to be temperature and pressure resistant. 100 PSI is possible on an oil hose and 10 PSI would be a lot on a fuel hose.

I would stick to using a USCG A1 fire resistant hose...

Extractors break, like drill bits...

Since the snapped off piece is going into an oil gallery I think it would back out without much effort. It's not like it's going to be rusted in place.

I prefer using the spiral flute style of extractor.

[jstaff]

Totally different demands than fuel hose. Fuel hose needs to be ethanol-proof and fire resistant. Oil hose needs to be temperature and pressure resistant. 100 PSI is possible on an oil hose and 10 PSI would be a lot on a fuel hose.

I would prefer a Coast Guard approved hose that is fire resistant.... They are obviously "temperature" resistant and often rated for 500 psi.

[joe_db]

Well if you can find 500 PSI fuel hose then you have all bases covered

I would prefer a Coast Guard approved hose that is fire resistant.... They are obviously "temperature" resistant and often rated for 500 psi.

[jstaff]

Well if you can find 500 PSI fuel hose then you have all bases covered

http://www.gates.com/products/industrial/industrial-hose/industrial-hose/marine/marine-master-fuel-line-500

[Dromo]

romantic comedy
Your right , they are almost the same a torx but the teeth are twice as long
I haven't tried them on a broken bolt yet and hope that I never have to.
Easyouts put a lot of outward stress on the metal / block ,
I'm guessing here ! due to the reverse threads
,easyouts could & can crack the softer metal A-4 block .
what I like about these bit is that , you just hammer /tap,tap,tap, them in and you can use a socket with a extension for those hard to get to places
Again Stay away from (*&$#$%%^&^*(easyouts
I'll try and fined out more info on them next time I'm at Princess auto in Canada
Mo , you should be familiar with this store ?
cheers Rick

[Mo]

I'll try and fined out more info on them next time I'm at Princess auto in Canada
Mo , you should be familiar with this store ?
cheers Rick

Sunday morning ritual while the rest are in church...walk through and see if there's anything I want. It's bad when you go into a place like that and have just about everything you need...or a version of it. LOL

[jsmickey19]

Ok, dramas over , catastrophy has been averted. Searched in vain for a set of nipple extractors like Dromos pictured upthread but alas none to be found here in Chicago.
The #4 screw extractor / ez out did the trick but it took a bit more force than I was comfortable with, easy to see how one could get into trouble with this tool. Next project will be to move the sensor and cut off switch to the adjacent bulkhead so that this won't happen again (although it did take me 27 years to break the first one )
Thanks again for all the support and ideas !!

[TomG]

Two Tee's and an elbow in my case. Be sure to run a ground wire from the block to the sensor array.

Neil, how did you ground your sensors? I'm thinking I could just ground it the battery since the sensors will be moved so close to the battery box anyway and the batteries are grounded to the block. Did you do anything elegant?

[ndutton]

Neil, how did you ground your sensors?

Y'know, I don't remember. Next time at the boat (maybe tonight?) I'll inspect and snap a pic.

I sure hope it was elegant. We'll see. At least it works.

[sastanley]

Tom G...
Mine is not elegant, but it works too...and I hope I've improved the tidyness of the wires since this 2012 pic was taken, but, I did this when I re-wired the ignition circuit a couple of years ago. The main ground is one of the starter bolts on the C-30. I ran that wire to a new ground buss mounted up from the flywheel (C-30's have no flywheel access, the engine is encased in a fiberglass cabinet, see below). I then ran the ground wire to the "sensor array" (OOOooo..fancy!) + oil filter assembly from the ground buss. Probably overkill, but I had plenty, so #4 wire was used from the starter bolt to the buss, and #14 to other things I needed to ground in that area.

In this pic, the left most buss is the 'engine room ground buss'..it holds all the grounds in that area..bilge pump, fwc pump, oil pressure sender, etc., and maybe the house water pressure pump which is in that area too..) I am not quite ABYC compliant, so I have a mix of yellow & black for ground.

That buss bar is likely a Blue Sea #2304..little screws in the middle...big post(s) on the end for the ground run.

The oil pressure sender, etc. is just out of the pic to the left, mounted on the same bulkhead you can see, using the 300PSI hose as mentioned earlier in this thread.. I have my oil pressure sender on a "tee" hanging off of the Indigo Oil Filter assembly.