All,
I recently purchased a 1962 Pearson Trit on in great shape, good sails and a frozen Atomic 4.Hello The boat took on a little seawater due to a packing glands leak. Everything else has been remedied but the engine. I have a Tohatsu 6 HP long shaft 4 stroke but that mean I need an outboard mount on the transom. I am not exactly sure where to mount it, and it adds to my length with the engine tilted up. I have seen some used diesels for around 2500 but don't know the skill set required to swap an engine by myself. I can do it easily on land in a car, but this is neither. I was given an estimate of $10K plus to swap in a new one. I have seen James's Salty pictures but they do not show what he did with the back stay mount. I like the Pajaro installation. I believe I can do that one in the water.
A Plan, A Plan,
1) Seal up the rear lazarette bulkhead on both sides
2) Use cut out shape from my Columbia 22 mark on bottom where hole will be.
3) Beef up bottom of lazarette opening for an engine mount
4) Mark where top of lid must be cut out
5) Build lid teak reinforcement for lid area
6) Build Teak reinforcement for bottom hole
7) Make hatch cover for bottom hole to be fastened with bulldogs
8) Add tie spot for holding fuel tanks.
9) Make top cover
10) Oh boy, cut holes, first bottom, then lazarette opening
11) Dry fit engine.
12) Install teak reinforcements, epoxy and glass in.
13) Sea trial
14) Install lid
15) Adjust as necessary
16) Paint
Comments?
Continued
I still am not clear on what I am going to do. The transom mount comes with a cost of moving to the next size slip up. I am in a 25, and the Triton, mine at least, is 28' 4". I am not sure when they went to 28" 6". The next size up is a 30' slip with a steep price increase.
The lazarette solution I like because it easy to glass back up later. I studied James Baldwin's solutions for awhile. I do not like the tilt, I prefer the well option on the S/V Pajaro. Watertight the rear lazarette, beef up the mount location, build a box and a lid, then stowage for tanks. The largest size would be the a 6 HP 4-stroke. Now is this sufficient to meet my needs, don't know just yet. I like the cost, glass is cheap. I have already rebuilt the deck step plate on my Columbia 22, that I have some excess ply left over. Lastly I have a long shaft Tohatsu 6 HP 4 stroke, with exhaust through the prop. The major downfall is it noisy, not as noisy as a two stroke, but still an exposed noise source. I have had both on my Columbia 22. Here are some links which some of you may know of already.
I have started the disassembly process of the Atomic 4. I removed the head, easy enough and found No. 2 cylinder full of orangish goop. Everything else looked fine. I cleaned out the goop filled the cylinders with Kroil. Three days later No. 2 is still full of Kroil and still will not turn.
I found several Atomic 4 listing on CL. One was running with lost of goodies, $2500, significant drive and removal process but interesting. Another seems to have disappeared for $1300 closer by. One was running but is now disassembled in several places for $1500. Lastly I found someone with several in various states willing to provide parts.
Whatever happens I am still removing the existing Atomic 4. Today I removed the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, carburetor, fuel pump, it looks electric, distributor, all linkages, starter, and the generator. It is a generator, not an alternator, I know the difference. The exhaust manifold connection to the exhaust line was, to stay the least an exhausting effort. The bolts are blind, rounded, and only accessible from my left hand side. I had to hammer a box car on the lower to get it to break, and break it did. Apparently I broke the flange with the hammer, and the whole section where the bolt went into the manifold just crushed in. Maybe the manifold could be welded back up, most likely replace will be the choice.
I messed with the flywheel for a while and gave up. Since it doesn't move I can not tap and turn using the starter access hole. I am going to have to jimmy up some type of puller, there isn't much space between the flywheel and the housing.
I am trying to remove as much as possible from the block before trying to remove it. Even then I don't know where I am going to move it too. I was told I have to grab the shaft with something or it will slide out. I am not smart about this and ask others how they did it. Would a pair of vise grips be sufficient?
My plan for now is to remove the engine, clean-up the area, fair and then bilge white paint it. Hopefully a solution will present itself that is agreeable. I am curious how much removing 300 lbs from the aft will affect the trim. Is it even noticeable?
There no valves on the cockpit drain through hulls. and a gate valve in line with the water feed to the engine. These will be on the to do list at the next haul out.
I purchased from Moyer Marine the oil removal fixture that fits in the oil pump out slot. I installed and connected it to a 6.9 liter hand pump from West Marine. The fixture worked pretty slick. I pumped out almost 6.9 litre of clear before I ever saw any black come out. I do not think this can be good. I disposed of the clear appropriately and then came back and pumped out about 3 more litres of black. The funny thing was I did not see any orange as I found in No. 2 cylinder. The only other orange I have found has been in the water jacket as expected.
Oh yeah, No. 2 is still full of Kroil 5 days later.
rscaej
I recently purchased a 1962 Pearson Trit on in great shape, good sails and a frozen Atomic 4.Hello The boat took on a little seawater due to a packing glands leak. Everything else has been remedied but the engine. I have a Tohatsu 6 HP long shaft 4 stroke but that mean I need an outboard mount on the transom. I am not exactly sure where to mount it, and it adds to my length with the engine tilted up. I have seen some used diesels for around 2500 but don't know the skill set required to swap an engine by myself. I can do it easily on land in a car, but this is neither. I was given an estimate of $10K plus to swap in a new one. I have seen James's Salty pictures but they do not show what he did with the back stay mount. I like the Pajaro installation. I believe I can do that one in the water.
A Plan, A Plan,
1) Seal up the rear lazarette bulkhead on both sides
2) Use cut out shape from my Columbia 22 mark on bottom where hole will be.
3) Beef up bottom of lazarette opening for an engine mount
4) Mark where top of lid must be cut out
5) Build lid teak reinforcement for lid area
6) Build Teak reinforcement for bottom hole
7) Make hatch cover for bottom hole to be fastened with bulldogs
8) Add tie spot for holding fuel tanks.
9) Make top cover
10) Oh boy, cut holes, first bottom, then lazarette opening
11) Dry fit engine.
12) Install teak reinforcements, epoxy and glass in.
13) Sea trial
14) Install lid
15) Adjust as necessary
16) Paint
Comments?
Continued
I still am not clear on what I am going to do. The transom mount comes with a cost of moving to the next size slip up. I am in a 25, and the Triton, mine at least, is 28' 4". I am not sure when they went to 28" 6". The next size up is a 30' slip with a steep price increase.
The lazarette solution I like because it easy to glass back up later. I studied James Baldwin's solutions for awhile. I do not like the tilt, I prefer the well option on the S/V Pajaro. Watertight the rear lazarette, beef up the mount location, build a box and a lid, then stowage for tanks. The largest size would be the a 6 HP 4-stroke. Now is this sufficient to meet my needs, don't know just yet. I like the cost, glass is cheap. I have already rebuilt the deck step plate on my Columbia 22, that I have some excess ply left over. Lastly I have a long shaft Tohatsu 6 HP 4 stroke, with exhaust through the prop. The major downfall is it noisy, not as noisy as a two stroke, but still an exposed noise source. I have had both on my Columbia 22. Here are some links which some of you may know of already.
I have started the disassembly process of the Atomic 4. I removed the head, easy enough and found No. 2 cylinder full of orangish goop. Everything else looked fine. I cleaned out the goop filled the cylinders with Kroil. Three days later No. 2 is still full of Kroil and still will not turn.
I found several Atomic 4 listing on CL. One was running with lost of goodies, $2500, significant drive and removal process but interesting. Another seems to have disappeared for $1300 closer by. One was running but is now disassembled in several places for $1500. Lastly I found someone with several in various states willing to provide parts.
Whatever happens I am still removing the existing Atomic 4. Today I removed the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, carburetor, fuel pump, it looks electric, distributor, all linkages, starter, and the generator. It is a generator, not an alternator, I know the difference. The exhaust manifold connection to the exhaust line was, to stay the least an exhausting effort. The bolts are blind, rounded, and only accessible from my left hand side. I had to hammer a box car on the lower to get it to break, and break it did. Apparently I broke the flange with the hammer, and the whole section where the bolt went into the manifold just crushed in. Maybe the manifold could be welded back up, most likely replace will be the choice.
I messed with the flywheel for a while and gave up. Since it doesn't move I can not tap and turn using the starter access hole. I am going to have to jimmy up some type of puller, there isn't much space between the flywheel and the housing.
I am trying to remove as much as possible from the block before trying to remove it. Even then I don't know where I am going to move it too. I was told I have to grab the shaft with something or it will slide out. I am not smart about this and ask others how they did it. Would a pair of vise grips be sufficient?
My plan for now is to remove the engine, clean-up the area, fair and then bilge white paint it. Hopefully a solution will present itself that is agreeable. I am curious how much removing 300 lbs from the aft will affect the trim. Is it even noticeable?
There no valves on the cockpit drain through hulls. and a gate valve in line with the water feed to the engine. These will be on the to do list at the next haul out.
I purchased from Moyer Marine the oil removal fixture that fits in the oil pump out slot. I installed and connected it to a 6.9 liter hand pump from West Marine. The fixture worked pretty slick. I pumped out almost 6.9 litre of clear before I ever saw any black come out. I do not think this can be good. I disposed of the clear appropriately and then came back and pumped out about 3 more litres of black. The funny thing was I did not see any orange as I found in No. 2 cylinder. The only other orange I have found has been in the water jacket as expected.
Oh yeah, No. 2 is still full of Kroil 5 days later.
rscaej
Comment