Atomic Four Rebuild??

**ArtJ** · 07-25-2010, 07:56 AM

You should peruse this site and enjoy the benefits of some of the engine
experts here.
Ask some questions and check responses as well.
Engines in worse looking shape than yours have been
brought back without needing rebuilding. The Atomic 4 is very robust

Good luck
Art

**Marian Claire** · 07-25-2010, 09:37 AM

Chappy: Welcome to the forum. A few suggestions. Buy the Moyer manual and a can of PB Blaster. Take pics as you rebuild. Bag, tag, label and organize every part as it comes off. Get pics and label all the wiring and hoses. Learn the language of the A-4 by viewing the “on line catalog”. Helps when you order parts and when describing problems. Clean, clean and clean some more.
Did you get any compression #s before removing the head? I question a full rebuild unless there is some indication of major problems. What is your intended use for the boat, out of the marina twice a month or a trip to the Bahamas? Dan S/V Marian Claire
PS: size your pics to 640x480 to fit the page better.

**hanleyclifford** · 07-25-2010, 09:41 AM

Welcome to the forum. As Art indicated, you are in the right place. First step: order your personal copy of the Moyer Marine Overhaul and Service Manual from the online catalogue on this site. Also it mght be better if you could resize pictures a bit smaller. Looking forward to talking and helping if we can. Regards, Hanley

**rigspelt** · 07-25-2010, 09:41 AM

You're mechanically inclined, so forgive me if I bring up the obvious. If it was me, I'd probably remove all the parts that can be removed, being very careful not to break off bolts and nuts in the process. I find it much easier to inspect parts in the shop than in the boat. Take lots of photos along the way. Note the condition of the spark plugs. numbering them 1 to 4 from front (flywheel) to back. Taking parts off makes it possible to get items like the carb, fuel pump, water pump, starter, alternator, shaft coupling and stuffing box checked and rebuilt.

That's the approach I took. Our engine was running when we started our refit. I was able to check compression prior to refitting, which among other things helped me decide that I did not need to go inside the block and work on the bottom end or valves.

Looks like you don't have much room to work on the carb/fuel pump side, which is going to be important. That carb looks pretty rusted. The fuel pump should be just aft of the carb. Getting the engine out of the boat and into a shop at home would be nice if you have the resources and that approach seems necessary. Check the engine mounts: if they need revision then that might be something that tips the balance toward pulling the engine.

Not being a mechanic, I don't know how to check a non-running engine with unknown history to determine how much tear-down is necessary. If you do pull the engine, then when you get it running on the bench you can do some tests to find out if you need to tear into the block prior to reinstalling it in the boat.

I recommend getting the MMI Manual and Notes books. Spend a lot of time reading through the archives here on this site, and copy the best stuff into electronic notes for later reference, starting with posts by Don Moyer. Organize notes into systems: fuel, cooling, exhaust, ignition, charging, head/block, transmission, prop/shaft.

Any pictures of the aft (transmission) end? And photos of the head and pistons with the head off?

What do the head studs look like? Did any come out when the head came off?

**thatch** · 07-25-2010, 10:33 AM

"Echo...Echo...Echo..."

Chappy,
All of the input so far has been good. Having owned a Cat 27 in the past, I'm well aware of the limited access to the engine, therefore I strongly recommend pulling the A4 for it's freshening up. Since you are probably new to this site, you might want to take a look at the "Moyer Calander Pinup" motors, That'l get the the cleanup juices flowing!
Tom

**Chappy** · 07-25-2010, 04:04 PM

update

Thanks a lot folks.
I got the head off yesterday with a friend and the pistons are all blackend and the lifters look shot, i will be adding some pics after i get a chance. doing this all on my own pretty much, just getting advice and help on the major ( big ) parts.
i unbolted the motor mounts ( JUNK ) the rear mount by the tranny on the alt side fell out al together.
the motor is ready to come out, but the tranny will not disconnect.
what did I do wrong? I may have unbolted the wrong place, there is a plate behind the engine with I think 5 bolts hat came out, and it is round ( plate that is ). but I still cannot disconnect the engine from tranny.
( HELP PLEASE)
also there don't appear to be any fluids left inside the engine.
oil, antifreeze, tranny fluid, ect...
not sure if it was drained for a reason or if thats normal?
sorry for the size of the pictures, not sure how to resize.
I will keep trying tho.
So far I really like my Catalina and am trying to come up with possible names for it. but that will come later.
the interior needs a touch up, but not major. some of the cushions are missing. the wood work needs to be stained or replaced.
just figured out how to setup the jib, after searching for it ...
tucked away in cubby hole.
so my question I guess, is how to pull engine away from tranny?
So I look forward to hearing more ideas and helpful tips, thanks all.
~E~

**hanleyclifford** · 07-25-2010, 04:22 PM

Sounds like you may have disconnected some wrong bolts. The transmission on this engine is integral to the engine. The point to disconnect is the coupling, engine to drive shaft. On a direct drive there should be only 3. On a 2:1 reduction installation there will be 4. If you unbolted the plate in front of the coupling, put it back together and do the coupling. The two pieces can be rusted together. Apply the PB blaster and do a few light lateral whacks. Resist the temptation to drive a chisel between the two halves unless you have no choice in which case you may end up replacing or resurfacing one or both. Keep talking to us.

**Marian Claire** · 07-25-2010, 04:27 PM

What HC said. You can also try a thin putty knife to tap/drive between the plates. Dan S/V Marian Claire

**lat 64** · 07-25-2010, 08:31 PM

Chappy, Hi.
I've been studying your photos. I agree the carb looks rough but I see other rust that seems to be recent bloom. probably from the last owner just shutting the boat and losing interest. I see not-rusted water-jacket plate bolts(stainless?). This suggests someone has been doing some upgrades.

Don't worry about black in the cylinders. It's probably just from running rich while it was losing it's tune for the last time.
I'm curious about your call on the lifters. That's usually not an issue with these engines. Can you take a picture for us of them? old-style lifters like these can be resurfaced on the cam end but if the shaft is worn, the lifter bore may be very worn too.

Russ

**hanleyclifford** · 07-25-2010, 08:38 PM

Hopefully you have either not yet removed the lifters or if you have, you have identified which hole each came from. Not getting each one back in its original hole is a frequent cause of "stuck" lifters. This is also true for valves and other parts as well.

**Chappy** · 07-25-2010, 08:41 PM

Ooooops

Ok, i guess i messed up on the bolts to pull.

thanks for letting me know, i think i tried the 3 bolts but i couldnt get them to turn at all.
i may need my friend to stop by and give an assist.
all that happend when I tried to loosen them was the shaft kept turning instead.

lol
I tried to use another wrench to apply pressure to hold the shaft still, but it still turned and not the bolts.. I have disconnected the wires on the alt., the starter, the (oil temp gauge) thing,...on the right hand side of the engine..
in the pictures i have on here from the first post the wire goes to the round item is just past the flywheel cover ( lower right).
Once I do get this sucker out, what should be the first thing I should look at as far as tearing down the engine?
I am going to completely rebuild from ground up. so to speak.
I am doing it this way just so I know for a fact what all the spec's are going to be and where everything is located, and not have any doubts of what is this thing or what does that do?
Wasnt able to take pics today as planned...
I will be back at it tomorow for more punnishment tho, haha.
Thanks again for the info and ill keep you all posted.
I can't wait to get it all back together and hear how well she runs!!

**Chappy** · 07-25-2010, 08:52 PM

ok pictures of spark plug holes

here are pics i was trying to add yesterday.
forgive me I don't know how to adjust the size of the pics.

Attached Files

**hanleyclifford** · 07-25-2010, 09:14 PM

Chappy - Resist the temptation to start taking things apart until you have received your manual from Moyer Marine. As for the drive coupling, start by smothering the three bolts with PB blaster. There are numerous approaches to removing the bolts. If you have the room a good way is to hold the coupling, not the shaft, with a large pipe wrench while working the bolts with (ideally) something six-pointed. If push comes to shove consider cutting the heads off with a hack saw. This is tedious (you will become familiar with tedium). All the best, Hanley

**67c&ccorv** · 07-26-2010, 02:03 AM

You have your work cut out for you - but, as Hanley says...wait for the manual before you begin jammin' on the motor!

Atomic Four Rebuild??

Atomic Four Rebuild??

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