Hoisting the engine

[ILikeRust]

Made a little more progress today.

First I shot some paint on a few of the primed parts. I guess it's the bright sunshine, or just my cheap digicam, but it looks much more orange in the pics than it really is. It's Ford Red, and is much more red than it looks here. But you get the idea.







It's going to be a sweet-looking engine when done! Hopefully it will be as sweet-running, too...

[ILikeRust]

While that was drying, I went to work on the rusty, greasy, cruddy manifold. I wish I had gotten a good "before" pic, because it wasn't pretty.

I went at it with the angle grinder and the twisted strand wire wheel, which made huge strides.

I then installed the little drain plug and filled the water jacket with muriatic acid.

A leetle bubblin' going on:



About 15-20 minutes later:



I flushed out some flakes of rust and chunks and some crud. Seems pretty clean inside now.

Then a final once-over with a wire wheel and a wipe-down with solvent to prep for priming left it nice and clean:

[ILikeRust]

Masked and ready for priming:



And the first shot of primer:



I stood it on end, because that was the best way to be able to paint all sides.

[ILikeRust]

Water Pump Woes

And now - some questions about the water pump:

First: here it is.





I believe this is a MMI replacement pump. The previous owner of the boat told me had either rebuilt or replaced the pump (I don't recall which) about 2 years ago. Overall it's in good condition.

BUT!

The shaft now is seized. I'm guessing it's because it's been sitting and got a little rusty or something. But it will not turn at all.

Question: in explaining how to take the water pump apart, the Moyer Manual says remove the grease cup (I note that this pump does not have one) and then later it says to remove the impeller and shaft.

It does not give any detail on how to remove the shaft.

Does it come out this side:



Or this side:



??

In any event, mine's not coming out either side - that sucker is stuck, stuck, stuck and won't budge in any direction.

[13jeff13]

Wow

Very Nice,,, I'm following in your foot steps,, Looking Great,, My block goes to the machine shop tomorrow.

Did you replace your freeze plugs or leave them in?


LOOKING GREAT!!!!!!!

EDIT: I'm going with them MMI 502... on the pump.

[ndutton]

Suggest you measure the pump cavity depth before anything else. If it's any more than 0.876" I'd forget it and replace. That number is arbitrary based solely on a recent experience. My new impeller measured 0.872" and we've found that more than 0.004" deeper cavity can result in poor-to-no pump performance.

If the cavity measures too deep, why mess with a pump that's worn out?

[ILikeRust]

Very Nice,,, I'm following in your foot steps,, Looking Great,, My block goes to the machine shop tomorrow.

Did you replace your freeze plugs or leave them in.

I left all the freeze plugs in and just soaked all the water passages with muriatic acid, dug around with a wire shirt hanger as much as I could, and flush massive amounts of water through everything.

I got a ton of crud out of the block, a fair amount out of the head, and just a bit of stuff out of the manifold. I'm positive that everything is flowing quite nicely now.

I didn't want to get into yanking out and replacing the freeze plugs.

[hanleyclifford]

If that is the MM 502 pump it has bearings and they may be seized. They are replaceable and the pump can be rebuilt. I would completely immerse the pump in MM oil and try to force that shaft to turn. The parts for rebuild are in the on line catalogue.

[ILikeRust]

If that is the MM 502 pump it has bearings and they may be seized. They are replaceable and the pump can be rebuilt. I would completely immerse the pump in MM oil and try to force that shaft to turn. The parts for rebuild are in the on line catalogue.

So yesterday I went back to working on the water pump. I had soaked it with Kroil last weekend. If you're not familiar with Kroil, you really want to be. It's great stuff.

Anyhow, this weekend, pump still no turn. I went ahead and drove the shaft and bearings out the back of the pump - which was a bit of a job in itself. I was surprised how much the bearings resisted being pushed out. But I finally got it all apart.

The space in between the two bearings was full of wet mud. The grit had gotten in to the bearings, and both are hopelessly seized. In fact, the first one (the rearmost one) is all chewed up - it's totally destroyed. Makes me wonder if the pump was working last time I ran it (which was back in November).

I discovered that the pump body has these two slots in it that go all the way through into where the first bearings is.





You can see here how they go all the way through:



I'm wondering why it has these slots, because all that does is allow crud to get in there. It's pretty clear that this is exactly how the crud got into the pump and destroyed the bearings.

Anyhow, at this point, to rebuild this pump would require replacing everything except the body, and even that I'm not too sure about, so it looks like I can add a whole new pump to my already very long parts list.

[ILikeRust]

I previously showed the manifold in primer. Here it is in color.

[ILikeRust]

I felt compelled to show several pictures of the oil pan, because this picture represents several hours of dirty work to get the pan looking like this:







As you can see, it's masked and ready for priming.

I spent a LOT of time getting it there. I used three different wire wheels, some incredibly aggressive paint stripper and four different solvents.

Here it is in primer:



Like the manifold, it turned out that the best way to paint it was to stand it on end, so I could get all sides.

[ILikeRust]

And here it is in its first coat of color:

[ILikeRust]

I also just discovered these pics of the head and block right after coming back from the machine shop. Forgot to post them before.





I think I'm going to take the block back to the same shop and have them re-grind the valve seats. Most of them got shortened when they ground the deck, and one intake valve seat is kinda pitted, so I'm thinking it would be best to just have them re-cut them.

[13jeff13]

Wow

Looking great Bill. Great Thread, a real start to finish Job.

Thanks for keeping up the good work and documentation,, Keeps Me, for one, Motivated.

[13jeff13]

Surface

""I think I'm going to take the block back to the same shop and have them re-grind the valve seats. Most of them got shortened when they ground the deck, and one intake valve seat is kinda pitted, so I'm thinking it would be best to just have them re-cut them. ""

Hey Bill, did you use the MMI recommended surface texture? Roughness of RMS 120?