Identifying Moyer Marine Rebuild

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  • whalechaser
    Senior Member
    • May 2018
    • 19

    #16
    That's great information for the fwc system, I'll have to consider those upgrades.

    I will be re installing my hot water tank when I drop this motor in. Are there any issues that come up with these upgrades and water temp for the heater? I read another post that mentions eventually removing the hot water tank as it was causing the motor temp to run too hot?

    Cheers,

    Chris
    1975 Bristol 32
    “Peg”

    Comment

    • joe_db
      Afourian MVP
      • May 2009
      • 4527

      #17
      Originally posted by whalechaser View Post
      That's great information for the fwc system, I'll have to consider those upgrades.

      I will be re installing my hot water tank when I drop this motor in. Are there any issues that come up with these upgrades and water temp for the heater? I read another post that mentions eventually removing the hot water tank as it was causing the motor temp to run too hot?

      Cheers,

      Chris
      Not sure about that, in theory the water heater REMOVES heat. Do not run either pump dry. Maybe remove both impellers if feeding the engine with a hose.
      Joe Della Barba
      Coquina
      C&C 35 MK I
      Maryland USA

      Comment

      • hanleyclifford
        Afourian MVP
        • Mar 2010
        • 6994

        #18
        Originally posted by whalechaser View Post
        That's great information for the fwc system, I'll have to consider those upgrades.

        I will be re installing my hot water tank when I drop this motor in. Are there any issues that come up with these upgrades and water temp for the heater? I read another post that mentions eventually removing the hot water tank as it was causing the motor temp to run too hot?

        Cheers,

        Chris
        There is no reason why a hot water tank should cause an engine to overheat. Quite the opposite the hwt is in effect an exchanger which is actually stealing heat from the engine. I run two bus style cabin heaters in addition to the hwt, all plumbed in series with the two cabin heaters getting the antifreeze first and the hwt last. I do not agree with Shawn's elimination of the bypass (in effect deadheading the antifreeze pump) but I understand it's viability in light of his use of the electric pump. As for the Thatch Modification - it should be SOP on all Atomic 4 engines and I'm surprised the Moyer organization has not adopted it.

        Comment

        • sastanley
          Afourian MVP
          • Sep 2008
          • 7030

          #19
          Originally posted by hanleyclifford View Post
          There is no reason why a hot water tank should cause an engine to overheat. Quite the opposite the hwt is in effect an exchanger which is actually stealing heat from the engine. I run two bus style cabin heaters in addition to the hwt, all plumbed in series with the two cabin heaters getting the antifreeze first and the hwt last. I do not agree with Shawn's elimination of the bypass (in effect deadheading the antifreeze pump) but I understand it's viability in light of his use of the electric pump. As for the Thatch Modification - it should be SOP on all Atomic 4 engines and I'm surprised the Moyer organization has not adopted it.
          Hanley, this would be an interesting discussion, but maybe in another thread so as not to clutter up the current issues we are helping whalechaser with. I ran it for several years with no problems, but I am just a weekend warrior..maybe my logic is flawed...always appreciate a good debate. I do agree on all comments that a hot water heater outside the engine should be effectively removing heat from the motor. I know that Neil Dutton had a pretty long run from his A4 up to his hot water heater forward in the boat with no problems.

          edit - Hanley...I started a new thread in the general interest area..let's talk about it! I don't own the boat anymore but I have another entire set of issues with the powerboat..one being I have to big huge noisy 5.7L engines and no hot water unless I am plugged into the dock. I can easily plumb some antifreeze to the hot water heater but not part of this discussion.
          Last edited by sastanley; 02-27-2024, 11:40 PM.
          -Shawn
          "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
          "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
          sigpic

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          • ndutton
            Afourian MVP
            • May 2009
            • 9776

            #20
            Originally posted by hanleyclifford View Post
            As for the Thatch Modification - it should be SOP on all Atomic 4 engines and I'm surprised the Moyer organization has not adopted it.
            I can attest that Don has no quarrel with the Thatch Mod but it has consistently been his preference to keep his rebuilds as true to the original Universal configuration as possible, a position I have always respected.
            Neil
            1977 Catalina 30
            San Pedro, California
            prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
            Had my hands in a few others

            Comment

            • whalechaser
              Senior Member
              • May 2018
              • 19

              #21
              One more question regarding the FWC system. Is there a good thread where the standard full plumbing schematic is laid out, including fresh, raw, and exhaust plumbing? I've watched the Moyer video describing the FWC refit, but it does not really explain the full I/O of the raw water and exhaust.

              This motor also came with the SS water lift muffler, which would be new to my boat. It was on a piece of angle aluminum bolted to the transmission housing. I will not keep it at that site, but unclear if it needs to be below the motor, etc.

              Asking a lot of questions, let me know if this should be in a different space.

              Thanks again,

              Chris
              1975 Bristol 32
              “Peg”

              Comment

              • hanleyclifford
                Afourian MVP
                • Mar 2010
                • 6994

                #22
                Originally posted by whalechaser View Post
                One more question regarding the FWC system. Is there a good thread where the standard full plumbing schematic is laid out, including fresh, raw, and exhaust plumbing? I've watched the Moyer video describing the FWC refit, but it does not really explain the full I/O of the raw water and exhaust.

                This motor also came with the SS water lift muffler, which would be new to my boat. It was on a piece of angle aluminum bolted to the transmission housing. I will not keep it at that site, but unclear if it needs to be below the motor, etc.

                Asking a lot of questions, let me know if this should be in a different space.

                Thanks again,

                Chris
                I see that your engine has no riser yet. A good place to start would be to have a look at the
                unit in the Moyer on line catalogue. The water lift of course must be mounted below the engine.

                Comment

                • hanleyclifford
                  Afourian MVP
                  • Mar 2010
                  • 6994

                  #23
                  Originally posted by ndutton View Post
                  I can attest that Don has no quarrel with the Thatch Mod but it has consistently been his preference to keep his rebuilds as true to the original Universal configuration as possible, a position I have always respected.
                  Don has done his own fair share of re-engineering the Atomic 4 - and I have always respected that.

                  Comment

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