??Ballast/balast??

[aaaaahab]

My engine had strange symptoms last fall. It would start but when the key was returned to the regular on position from the start position it shut off.
It also was intermittent in kicking in to start. Sometimes nothing happened in the start position.
So, this Spring I got a new ignition switch and a new solenoid for the starter. After installing them, on the first try the starter engaged, the engine started and continued to run when I returned the key to the on position.
I let it run for about 30 minutes, it continued to run until I turned the key off. Then it restarted and ran 'till I turned the ignition off.
Thought it was cured and went home - midnight.
Then two days later I returned. On the first try starter engaged and engine started but it almost immediately stopped running on its own. Second try starter engaged momentarily but stopped before I released the starter switch and before the engine started. Then for a number of tries nothing happened when the starter switch was turned on. In later tries the solenoid would kick then stop before turning over starter. Finally, when applying starter switch I noticed that as I moved it into position the silent would try but immediately stop and there would be no more action while the starter switch was left on. This continues. Engine will not start with hand crank. Battery is charged.

What is wrong? Someone said the ballast/balast is bad. What is that? Is it a separate part or is it internal in the coil? Should I try a new coil? What do you suggest? I have checked and cleaned all the electrical connections, I think.
Engine is old, rust here and there and maybe oil on some connection. I am at a loss of what to do next, HELP.

[Al Schober]

Sounds like time for some diagnostics. First, I'd get the ignition switch & it's wiring out of the loop. Run a jumper wire right from battery + to the coil +, which will take out the on/off part of the switch/wiring. Also, go to your auto parts store and get a remote starter button - connects from battery + to the solenoid. Finally, a test light from the starter + to ground. These should help isolate the issue(s).

Al

[ndutton]

Your symptoms suggest loose or improper connection or another switch failure (why?). Al's sent you down the right path but I offer these two cautions:

1. Do not leave the coil jumper in place for any length of time without the engine running.
2. Keep the raw water intake closed until she's running. Prolonged cranking with the valve open is a recipe for disaster.

How are your electrical skills?

[lat 64]

Neil,
I think the advice he got about the ballast resistor comes from the old version like what was used on old Plymouths. It was resistor for dropping the voltage for running, but was bypassed during starting/cranking. Full 12 volts during cranking—less for running. We used to see this same condition in those old cars, starts during cranking and then die when the key was let back to run position.
I didn't even know we had them on the A-4. Do we? If not, then just ignore this post.
I stole this pic from another forum. It shows a generic ignition circuit.
What the drawing shows as "primary resistor" is what we are calling ballast resistor.

Russ

[aaaaahab]

Lat64:
Yes, that is what he described.

Al and ndutton:
Thanks will try it. But can't till late next week. Will give you results.

aaaaahab

[hanleyclifford]

I would also check battery cable connections especially the ground from engine block to battery negative.

[Dave Neptune]

Yep!

Russ, my A-4 was shipped with a ballast resistor and when I went to electronic I ditched it. It was wired the same way hot at start and 8v in run. Anyhow that was how it was hooked up when I bought her.

Dave Neptune

[aaaaahab]

??Ballast/balast??

Thanks for all input.

Now I have been told what a ballast resistor is and why it might be there. It is just like lat 64's diagram. It reduces voltage in ignition position to below 12 volts (6 to 8) to extend the life of old fashioned points. Should be removed if one uses electronic distributor which likes 12V.

My engine was switched to electronic distributor beginning last season. Don't know if mine had a ballast resistor before or not. Don't know if it does now or not. Will find out later this week.

This probably is not related to my problem though. You have told me how to check if ignition switch wiring is the culprit, I will. The battery charge and terminal connections will be checked. I expect solenoid and starter will work. If they do I will then know if battery and its connections are good. And finally check all connections in ignition switch wiring. Engine should start and run if all that is well. If it still does not work I'll be on here again.

[lat 64]

Russ, my A-4 was shipped with a ballast resistor and when I went to electronic I ditched it. It was wired the same way hot at start and 8v in run. Anyhow that was how it was hooked up when I bought her.

Dave Neptune

This 'splains everything. I just never bothered to check my own engine. I'm glad for the discussion.

Cheers all,
R.

[roadnsky]

...Engine should start and run if all that is well. If it still does not work I'll be on here again.

Don't forget closing that thru hull until she starts...

[aaaaahab]

With 12V Battery to coil and 12V Battery to solenoid and water intake off engine would not start.

In on position coil has 12V at one terminal and 9 volts at other terminal.

Checked for spark. No spark.

Checked violtage out of coil to distributor. Nothing there.

Nothing out at coil. Is that a bad coil? Or should it be that way with ignotion switch on and engine not running.

What of any voltage should be coming out of coil to distributor?
How can I check distributor?

[Al Schober]

The voltage drop across the coil means the points are closed and drawing current. Do the points open (no voltage drop across coil) during engine rotation? If not, you're not going to get any spark. Sounds like you need an ignition system tuneup.

Al

[hanleyclifford]

What is the point gap set at, and can you tell us what you are getting for dwell readings?

[aaaaahab]

??Ballast/balast??

Hanleyclifford:
What is dwell? How do I measure it?
bucky

[ndutton]

Hopefully without objection I'll jump in here. I found a website that addresses your question and provides testing instruction.
here

However, before you spend on new test equipment for a dated ignition system you might consider putting the money toward a new electronic system that doesn't need dwell adjustment nor does it have parts that wear.
Moyer Electronic Ignition