Bowen Island Paint Job

[edwardc]

Generally, pipe threads do not need teflon and the thread itself is designed to bind and seal. I have seen it written on here not to use teflon on the oil sending unit as the possibility exists to get debris interfering with it's operation...

I have had good luck using the pink teflon tape. It's rated for petrolium proudcts, and is used on natural gas and propane lines. It does not appear to soften or dissolve when exposed to engine oil.

That having been said, it's still not a good idea to use any tape on a 1-terminal oil sending unit (or any 1-terminal sensor for that matter) because they depend on getting a good ground to the engine block through the threads in order to complete the return circuit. Usually the threads will cut thru the tape and ground anyway, but you can't count on it.

[Marty Levenson]

sender mounting

Thanks: never would have thought about the conductivity issue. I bought the oil filter kit from Indigo, and that's another reason to put that sensor on the oil filter (with ground to block).

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

pan pins

"There are two pins, for alignment. Shown below by the badly-drawn blue arrows (the engine is upside-down)"

Thanks - I did figure it out. The pan is back on, all painted.

Marty

[Marty Levenson]

Head stud problem or not?

Recap: my engine was rebuilt in 2008 - including new Moyer head - by PO, run for just a few hours, and then stored until now. I am partly disassembling, cleaning, tweaking, and painting with engine on a stand.

My alt bracket only seems to have one stud and nut. The second stud is short, with no nut (please see photo below).

Is that a problem?

Worried,
Marty

[hanleyclifford]

That is a monster problem. Those two studs have to be longer than the regular head studs to accomodate the bracket. Ken should be able to set you up with the right studs.

[Marty Levenson]

problem

so....head has to come off for sure? No other option?

[Marty Levenson]

head gasket + studs

Head came off easily. Studs are still in the block. Valves look great.

I bought an inexpensive stud remover today and plan to remove the two that should extend through the lifting eye. Does anyone know how long those two replacement studs should be? Also, the manual describes cleaning them up and reinstalling them. Is it prudent to remove and reinstall all, remove and replace all, or simple replace the two that need to be longer?

I'm confused about the head gasket. The manual specifies two, and they are sold in pairs....but it seemed like there was only one.

Happy Thanksgiving!

-Marty

[ILikeRust]

I bought an inexpensive stud remover today

Be careful there, if you plan to re-use the studs. If the stud remover you bought is this type:



You can easily (and likely will) destroy the threads on the stud. If you have the head off, you can slide this remover farther down the stud, onto the non-threaded portion. Even there, you can bend the stud because you're applying torque parallel to, not along, the centerline of the stud. If a stud is corroded, it is possible to snap it off.

Feel free to ask me how I know this.

In fact, if you've got the head off, you can grip the middle, non-threaded portion of the stud with vise-grips or channel-locks and unscrew them that way.

Also, the manual describes cleaning them up and reinstalling them. Is it prudent to remove and reinstall all, remove and replace all, or simple replace the two that need to be longer?

I would say it depends on the condition of yours. As the bottom end protrudes into the cooling jacket, they can corrode and lose a bit of length and some threads.

A few of mine were kind of corroded, one so badly it snapped off (see above), so I just went ahead and bought all new ones from Moyer.

I'm confused about the head gasket. The manual specifies two, and they are sold in pairs....but it seemed like there was only one.

Yes, if you go with the modern graphite set sold by Moyer, there are two.

[Marty Levenson]

studs

Thanks Rust - that's most useful.

The stud remover I bought from NAPA was similar to the Snap-on one that Moyer sells....but about a quarter the cost. I'll let you know how it works.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

painting alternator?

I see some alternators painted and some bare. I'm undercoating everything else with zinc chromate, so I gather I can prime the aluminum alt with that and expect it to last a few years.

Any pros or cons to painting the alt?

Thanks,
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

stud length

can anyone please tell me how long the studs should be

1. that go though the lifting eye?
2. that hold the thermostat housing?
3. the other 13?

I may have a local source that will be way faster than from Moyer's site (much as I prefer to buy from him when time isn't an issue!)

Thanks!
-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

gloating with fingers crossed

Well, getting near the end of painting. Volvo gray and Cat yellow. Should have the new head gaskets and studs before the weekend, and will assemble then. Starter, carb, flywheel housing and cover ready to install.

The end of Phase 1 will be testing. Phase 2 is getting the old A4 out of the boat. Phase 3 is cleaning up the disasterous engine room. Phase 4 is rewiring. Phase 5 is install rebuilt A4! Next winter there may be a Phase 6: rebuilding old A4.

Did a partial "dry assembly" of most parts today....an excuse to gloat. Photos below. Every time I go into the garage for anything I end up staying there at least 45 minutes tinkering.

Thanks for all the help so far: lots more questions to follow, no doubt!

-Marty

[TomG]

Wow, Marty! She looks FANTASTIC! Nice work.

[ILikeRust]

I am totally digging that paint scheme! Looks very utilitarian and purposeful.

SCHWEET!!

[Loki9]

I like the color scheme, it looks great!