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Bowen Island Paint Job
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The Indigo system relies heavily on an effective job of "two-blocking" the stock oil pressure adjuster. The method sometimes does not take into account the possible off center seating of the ball or cone as the case may be. If this happens you may be bleeding oil pressure into the dump port.
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Originally posted by Marty Levenson View PostThanks! I did remove the old "ball" and install the new one as per instructions. Are you saying that might not have worked? Any idea how would I test that, and how would I fix it?
Thanks!
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old ball out?
Thanks for the follow-up. I have a feeling that taking the new ball out again is going to be hard...maybe impossible? Id there a technique? And how do i dress the seat if I can get it out?
Tonight I read Don's post:
"If you find yourself gaining on the problem at all, we recommend re-facing the seat in the regulating valve. The inexpensive way is to slip a 1/8” pipe nipple (approximately 4” long) over the sliding part of the early model regulating valve and gently tap the nipple as you rotate the valve to provide a better seat between the valve and the seat. The more expensive way is to buy one of our reseating tools which has the ability of “machining” a small bevel in the orifice of the seat (TOOL_05_172 in our online catalog). Seat dressing tool for oil pressure regulating valve."
...and I don't get it! Also wondering how I can be sure that is the problem. Hoping it is something to do with the Indigo system...?
Any advice appreciated!Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC
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pressure: more questions
I am remembering that I noticed the oil filter cartridge was very pressurized and over filled with oil when I took it off after all that cranking. Though I tightened it with my hand, I needed serious effort with a strap wrench to remove it an hour later. Wouldn't that seems to point to a problem with the Indigo's pressure valve (or the way I had it set), an obstruction in that part of the system, or even a faulty cartridge? As I said earlier, the outlet house was bone dry: not a trace of oil.Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC
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Indigo adjustments on oil and water
I think that will be it.
When I wasn't getting any oil pressure reading initially (I think at that point because the sender wasn't grounded), I turned the adjustment IN as the directions state that clockwise = more oil pressure. Eventually I bottomed out and backed off a couple turns. So: when it is all the way down it goes to no pressure? Perhaps I didn't back it out far enough after? I'm wondering what the "factory" setting is: how many turns back from the bottom?
BUT, with all that pressure in the oil filter, shouldn't my pressure gauge have shown pressure once it was grounded? I'll re-seat it with a dab of oil in case of an air bubble there.
BUT, that leaves me wondering if, once I get all this working, can I trust the oil pressure gauge? If for some reason there was a blockage in the Indigo oil filter or pressure regulator that caused the oil to stop flowing but the pressure build up kept the gauge registering pressure......?
Also, I see now I have the electric water pump hoses plumbed backwards!!!
Seeing how easily confused I can be, please confirm I have the seawater pump right: the hose closer to the engine is the OUTFLOW.
Testing shall recommence shortly.
Thank you!Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC
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Marty - it's a small bone to pick but I notice you have an early model flame arrestor mounted on a late model carb.
It may come under scrutiny by CCC or other agency because excess fuel will run straight out of the carb into the bilge instead of pooling first in the flame arrestor if it was mounted on the correct plane.
Other than before 100% certain on proper oil and water flow before starting up your motor it looks pretty nice;
...another pin-up for Moyer!
Last edited by 67c&ccorv; 04-08-2012, 01:20 PM.
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When the aduster screw is turned in all the way clockwise you have shut off the bleed and the system will be pressurized to the max. Back it off until you get some oil moving out the return. The location of your oil sender is not good because it is near the "bleed" point and will thus give a lower reading than if you connected it, say, at the hole above the old stock aduster, which gives a truer "dead head" reading. Remember, in the dynamic system pressure will vary all over the show. BTW, 67's point about the arrestor is well taken.
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oil saga continues
Thanks for the replies, Gentlemen,
I did more testing this evening, without much more info. Took apart the Indigo regulator to make sure it wasn't jammed. Put it back together and tried it at various settings: 12 turns from the bottom, 8 turns, 6 turns, 5 turns. No oil came through.
Just opened my e-mail and found advice from Tom Stevens. Feels it is an instrument problem ..
"When cranking an A4, you have to realize that you will get very limited
flow from the pump. That limited flow feeds all of the bearings like it is
supposed to and will probably build up maybe 10-20 psi. Unless you back
way off on the pressure regulating valve, no oil will leave the filter
assembly. It only dumps oil when it has to to maintain the set pressure."
"I would suggest that you remove the oil pressure sending unit from the
filter assy and install it directly on the engine to verify that it does
or does not work Alternatively, you could purchase an inexpensive
mechanical gauge and install it in lieu of the sender. Then crank the
engine and see what the oil pressure does."
So, I will be getting a cheap mechanical sensor tomorrow and try again!
Thanks,
MartyMarty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC
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meanwhile: electric panel planning
Stared at the electric panel on our 1967 Tartan 27 for an hour and came up with a plan. Want to make the starboard bulkhead into two new parts: top will be hinged plywood with both DC panels, 1-2-all switch, and bilge pump switch. Lower half will be bare and easily removable: maybe four wing nuts? Cut approx at top of 1-2-all switch. Will move my AC panel and AC plug around the corner to make more room.
Goal is to get much better access to rear of panel (thus hinged) so I can wire them neatly, and have bottom section removable for better engine access.
Once I move the DC parts I'll be able to cut or disconnect all DC wires (with labels!) so I can take the panels home and build the whole thing in the shop. Will bring wires, fuses and connectors up to code. Heat shrink terminals and good terminal posts. Lots to sort out in terms of schematics...grouping etc.
Attached are photos of current rats' nest. Embarrassing, but likely not unique! Also the current panel layout, already partly detached.
Any suggestions appreciated!Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC
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Like you say, "embarrassing but not unique". And how!
I've been trying to install new wiring correctly and replacing older stuff as I get to it. When I first got into this boat, everything behind the DC circuit breakers was well done. The problems begin when you leave the breaker housing area and start heading to the engine and other power users. A mess!
Keep at it and you'll have a good setup that's easy to troubleshoot/modify in the end.
Good luck!Kelly
1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda Ketch, Wind and Atomic powered
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