thermostat housing stud repair

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  • izzy1554
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2012
    • 10

    thermostat housing stud repair

    while working on FWC install, i've been prepping the for the conversion installing a temporary T on the sea strainer so i could an acid flush, and do a pressure flush also.
    while removing the the thermostat i realized why it took so long for the engine to warm up... no t-stat. while removing the housing i noticed 2 different bolts(1 stud, 1 bolt) and when i tried tightening down the bolt and stud, they both would not stop..
    so, i bought the stud repair kit and was wondering if i need to drill deep enough into the block. i thought i read not to drill into the block but it seems like the stud and bolt already went in that deep...

    i cant sail w/out the engine
    everything's an acid trip
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  • hanleyclifford
    Afourian MVP
    • Mar 2010
    • 6994

    #2
    The two thermostat housing studs are in fact head studs and they must be torqued at 35 ft lbs just like the others. Because of their length and dual purpose they are a frequent source of trouble.

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    • Tar34
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2012
      • 93

      #3
      Nice heads up about the head bolts!

      Comment

      • izzy1554
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2012
        • 10

        #4
        so....

        i do drill and tap the block, yes?
        everything's an acid trip
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        • hanleyclifford
          Afourian MVP
          • Mar 2010
          • 6994

          #5
          Yes, If both holes are stripped you will need two repair studs. Don't use a bolt in this application. Work cautiously here since you only get one shot. Have you done this type of repair before?

          Comment

          • izzy1554
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2012
            • 10

            #6
            yes i've drilled and tapped before but never on an engine block... the instructions says to have the stopper at 1-13/16" so that's when i started wondering if it needs to get drilled into the block because i thought it said not to...

            should i drain the water? i am planning on not removing the head... hope all goes well tomorrow...

            thanks
            everything's an acid trip
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            Comment

            • izzy1554
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2012
              • 10

              #7
              does this depth look correct?
              Attached Files
              everything's an acid trip
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              • hanleyclifford
                Afourian MVP
                • Mar 2010
                • 6994

                #8
                I have never used a Moyer Marine kit for this so I am not sure about the instructions. But if you intend to tap the block for 7/16" - 14 (national coarse), the correct tap drill is size "U", which is between 5/16" and 27/64". The 7/16" bit is for reaming the head to accept the stud. It would seem you are expected to cut the new threads in the block without drilling with the "U" under the assumption that the stripping of the 3/8" - 16 original hole has already opened it up enough for the tap. So the answer is NO; do not go into the block with that 7/16" bit.

                Comment

                • izzy1554
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2012
                  • 10

                  #9
                  if the stud repair didnt work for the t stat housing, what would happens besides the leak?
                  Last edited by izzy1554; 06-29-2012, 02:48 AM.
                  everything's an acid trip
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