Won't start after parts replacement

[jholcomb]

This past year the performance of my A4 had been slowly degrading to the point of not starting. I chose to undertake a general overhaul and replaced the following items.

Gas tank, fuel filter, gas line, carb, distributor (kit), plugs and plug wires.

After replacing all these items, downloading Don's videos on timing and carbs, I have spent countless hours trying to get the engine to start. I did not pull the distributor and know that it's in the same place that it was previously located. I have confirmed the carb is getting fuel, as well.

The engine cranks and occasionally coughs, but absolutely refuses to start. I am somewhat frustrated and would like to solve this issue on my own rather than having to hire someone to tow by boat in from the ball, as well as fix the motor.

I'm confident that it's just a minor adjustment, but I don't know what to do to resolve this issue.

Suggestions?

[Mo]

Welcome aboard,

It might not be fuel. Pull one of the spark plug wires and see if you have spark. Spark should look blue....orange spark is an indicator of not enough getting through. Is it points and condenser ignition or electronic? Points and condenser will deteriorate over time and get you into a no start situation...so will want to check on what you have there. Coil could also be a problem if not starting. Also check wires on coil to ensure they are still in place there.

[Dave Neptune]

Checks & info

j, first did you keep the water valve closed while attempting to start? Are you sure the choke is fully functioning? Another quick question is what type of ignition EI or points?
Since you did not MOVE the distributor it should be close enough to start if you have spark~do you? If you removed the wires and they were not in the order in the book regarding which is number one, I suggest you pull the plugs and rotate the engine by hand while looking into number 1 while watching the valves. You should be able to see or feel with a probe the edge of the piston when it is at the top of the stroke and if the valves are closed you are on the compression stroke. Just get the piston as close to the top as you can and then pull the dist cap to see which lug the rotor is pointing at and that is number one no matter which one it is pointing at!!! Start your wiring in order from there and all should be well if the dist was not moved. Be sure you place the wires in the proper ROTATION and order.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

Having the distributor in the same place is good but the plug wires have to be in the same place too. Check that the #1 plug wire is in the socket that's firing at #1TDC, then 1-2-4-3 clockwise around the distributor cap.

edit:
Sorry Dave, didn't mean to repeat what you said. We were typing simultaneously. I wanted to mention also there's a very subtle difference between TDC and the top of the exhaust stroke. Double check you're actually on the top of the compression stroke for TDC. We've heard stories of VERY experienced mechanics that miss this.

[roadnsky]

I'm with the guys on this one...
Double check the plug wires are in the correct order, then assure TDC and timing.
That'll likely get it.
Remember, FUEL, SPARK and COMPRESSION and is what it needs to fire...

And please note Dave's warning of closing the water intake to the engine until it fires.
Apologies if you know this already. We like to constantly repeat it though to avoid causing other bigger issues.
(Here's Don's procedure for finding TDC)

[Cellnav]

Non starter

I know you're getting lots of suggestions, but pull the flame arrestor and verify the choke is fully closed. Mine won't start if the cable is out of adjustment. I found the problem last weekend..

[Nahart]

Won't start

I had the same issue....it started out poor performance, hard starting...

I rebuilt carb with a Moyer kit...
Replaced Racor filter, added polishing filter....
Replaced all fuel lines with new ethanol compliant West Marine...(obviously money no object)

Drained fuel tank and put fresh gas....
Adjusted timing according to Moyer Video...
Verified spark...
Verified compression...couldn't hold thumb on spark plug hole...
Adjusted carb according to Moyer Video...
Wouldn't start....
Pulled fuel line off carb and operated electric fuel pump...
Clicking but no fuel....
Checked for vacuum leaks....none...

Getting dark, mosquitoes attacking, brought fuel pump home....

Retested Fuel pump at home...Fuel pumping in spurts...is this normal? Wouldn't know. Took it apart...almost nothing to it....

Ordered new fuel pump from Moyer....probably good to have 2nd fuel pump if it wasn't the problem.

Got new fuel pump, no barbs....1/8 inch thread....Lowes,,no..Home Depot,,no..
West Marine...yes...Bend over again...

Hour and half trip to the boat....install new pump...activate pump...pumps like a faucet....

Cranking the engine now.....starts right up....run about 20 minutes...let's see if it starts again...starts like a car...no hesitation....try the hand crank now....one half ass crank...what??? sonofabitch...started right up...haven't done that in years...

Looks like a poor performing fuel pump all along...

Lesson learned is that the fuel pump should run like a faucet, not pump in spurts.

Although I didn't figure it out for a while, it forced me to do some much needed maintenace, my entire fuel system is good as new.

[JOHN COOKSON]

This past year the performance of my A4 had been slowly degrading to the point of not starting. I chose to undertake a general overhaul and replaced the following items.
Suggestions?

Please include a compression check in your differential diagnosis.
Also is your exhaust system blocked?

TRUE GRIT

[jholcomb]

Thanks for all your help everyone. Once again, I tried Don's method per his video and was not successful. I managed to get the motor started by doing the following.

I rotated each plug wire clockwise one time and attempted to start the engine, first attempt failed. After moving the each plug over two spaces on the distributor cap, the engine immediately started. Engine is running perfectly with a sharp response to the throttle and smooth idle. Finally managed to get in a sail. Until the next, good sailing!

John

[hanleyclifford]

So your timing was "180 out". Been there many times.

[TomG]

Thanks for all your help everyone. Once again, I tried Don's method per his video and was not successful. I managed to get the motor started by doing the following.

I rotated each plug wire clockwise one time and attempted to start the engine, first attempt failed. After moving the each plug over two spaces on the distributor cap, the engine immediately started. Engine is running perfectly with a sharp response to the throttle and smooth idle. Finally managed to get in a sail. Until the next, good sailing!

John

John, feels good, doesn't it?! Nice work solving the problem and reporting back to the forum.

[ILikeRust]

So your timing was "180 out". Been there many times.

I have no idea what you're talking about.

[ILikeRust]

I rotated each plug wire clockwise one time and attempted to start the engine, first attempt failed. After moving the each plug over two spaces on the distributor cap, the engine immediately started.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that the next words out of your mouth were "Woo" and "Hoo".

Because that's exactly what came out of mine when I had a very similar experience a little more than a year ago...

[hanleyclifford]

I have no idea what you're talking about.

Moving a plug wire 2 spaces around means that you have changed your timing 180 degrees. If it is then correct, it was originally 180 degrees wrong. Happens a lot mostly when re timing an engine after re build.

[ILikeRust]

Moving a plug wire 2 spaces around means that you have changed your timing 180 degrees. If it is then correct, it was originally 180 degrees wrong. Happens a lot mostly when re timing an engine after re build.

Sorry, Hanley - I guess my sarcasm was too subtle.

Perhaps you've forgotten my own episode of dealing with timing 180 degrees out... Which is why I included the