Second boat- first Atomic 4 !

[joe_db]

FYI this is where the oil filter comes from:

http://www.atomic4.com/oilfilter.html

[sastanley]

Hi Will, welcome to the forum. Agree with Joe & Hanley's recommendations..sometimes just the engine vibration is enough to break that nipple with the oil pressure parts. You can use hydraulic transmission hose (300 PSI) plenty strong enough with 1/8" NPT (if I remember) fittings.

Sorry to hear about the HX. I trolled the internet for a while, but eventually found a "local" chop shop over on the Eastern Shore of MD along Rt 50 (Anchors & Oars, Joe probably knows of them), and found a great HX for my boat using an electric pump for antifreeze. My boat (sold) had no room for a flywheel mount.

I like your Frankenstein engine. I also tinker with Hondas, and the same type of thing with swapping heads onto other blocks and modifying headers for manifolds they were not designed for and stuff like that is common, and we use the same term.

[WillJ]

https://youtu.be/4E9Bt1v18Is

I'm having trouble uploading video but here's a link to my engine running today for the first time since Ive had the boat.

[Dave Neptune]

The engine does not sound bad at all. However I don't like the condition of the coolant as it looks oily. Also does the bubbling in the HX go away after a minute or two? If it continues I would suspect a leaky head gasket allowing cylinder pressure to leak by and bubble out the HX.

If the bubbling stops your in good shape but I would still drain and clean the oil out of the coolant system before adding fresh coolant.

Dave Neptune

[hanleyclifford]

I agree that your engine sounds good. One thing I noticed in your video was the water inlet arrangement. Looks like a gate valve sitting on top of a smaller thru hull. Not good, especially looking at the amount of metal and hose hanging on that one thread which is of unknown condition. I would replace that cobble with a genuine Groco sea valve at least 3/4".

[WillJ]

Hey guys,
This was the first startup after rebuilding the water pumps and replacing lots of fittings, gaskets, hoses, etc. all with ample grease so I’m thinking the oil that’s bubbling up was coming from all that work. The HX is also leaking coolant out into the raw water side. I tried to fill the fresh water side and get the thermostat to open to purge all the air but I stopped short because I had “oil flush” additive in the motor oil. I pumped out the original oil, ran the flush for 5 minutes and then pumped it out again.
Today I’ll refill with the proper oil, fill the coolant water and run it with both pumps hooked up until the thermostat opens and prolly dump all that too. Once I get the HX issue fixed I’ll revisit the bubbly oily coolant issue and replace the head gaskets if needed.
And , YES, those thru hulls are atrocious! The boat came to me that way and I’ve been very careful not to stress the fittings while the boat’s in the water. They are both at the top of my list when she gets hauled out March/April.
You guys are definitely on the ball noticing and bringing up important items like that and I thank you for your input and advice!!

[WillJ]

Believe it or not that is a 3/4” gate valve straight from Home Depot and the two hoses come down from the 2 cockpit scuppers, combine into 1, and exit (sort of) thru that valve and the original brass thru hull which is de-mineralized and extremely fragile. I actually had to epoxy the mounting plate back down- the thru hull was cracked and it was leaking despite the PO’s “repair”
My plan it to glass over that thru-hull and install two new 1-1/2” drain fittings in the cockpit with the 2 new hoses crossing down to 2 new valves so that it’ll have proper drainage regardless of how far the boat heels under sail.

[WillJ]

The starboard thru-hull looks original. It’s a taper valve like the ones used on natural gas back in the day.
EGADS!!
I can only assume the PO used whatever was cheapest when the port side valve wouldn’t tighten up enough to stop the dripping.
Sad.

[hanleyclifford]

Believe it or not that is a 3/4” gate valve straight from Home Depot and the two hoses come down from the 2 cockpit scuppers, combine into 1, and exit (sort of) thru that valve and the original brass thru hull which is de-mineralized and extremely fragile. I actually had to epoxy the mounting plate back down- the thru hull was cracked and it was leaking despite the PO’s “repair”
My plan it to glass over that thru-hull and install two new 1-1/2” drain fittings in the cockpit with the 2 new hoses crossing down to 2 new valves so that it’ll have proper drainage regardless of how far the boat heels under sail.

Yikes! Never mix raw water for engine with cockpit drainage. Your plan for cockpit drainage is exactly what I have on my boat, the Herreshoff crossover configuration. I was lucky enough to find 2 Wilcox-Crittendon sea cocks but as they are no longer being made I would suggest the Groco ball valve type with bronze fittings for hose.

[hanleyclifford]

Hey guys,
This was the first startup after rebuilding the water pumps and replacing lots of fittings, gaskets, hoses, etc. all with ample grease so I’m thinking the oil that’s bubbling up was coming from all that work. The HX is also leaking coolant out into the raw water side. I tried to fill the fresh water side and get the thermostat to open to purge all the air but I stopped short because I had “oil flush” additive in the motor oil. I pumped out the original oil, ran the flush for 5 minutes and then pumped it out again.
Today I’ll refill with the proper oil, fill the coolant water and run it with both pumps hooked up until the thermostat opens and prolly dump all that too. Once I get the HX issue fixed I’ll revisit the bubbly oily coolant issue and replace the head gaskets if needed.
And , YES, those thru hulls are atrocious! The boat came to me that way and I’ve been very careful not to stress the fittings while the boat’s in the water. They are both at the top of my list when she gets hauled out March/April.
You guys are definitely on the ball noticing and bringing up important items like that and I thank you for your input and advice!!

I have had good results with this outfit: https://sen-dureproducts.com/

[Dave Neptune]

As Hanley stated it is not a good idea to combine the engine intake with ANYTHING else. The engine could easily have sucked in anything that went into and down the cockpit drains especially hair. I would suggest inspecting the block via the side plate for debris and dirt. If you do it plan on using the repair kit offered by our host it is of good design.

Part of your hi speed heating could well be from the pump sucking air through the cockpit drains due to restricted flow. The intake water needs to be sealed to the engine alone. This could be your steam issue too as air going through the block would heat and carry steam in the bubbles moving through the system while diminishing the cooling capacity too.

By the looks of the drain attachments I would not put any pressure on any thru hull. The one piece looks like it was stuck on with silicone, was it? If so I would suspect anything the PO worked on.

I would take the time to inspect everything I could and make a list of what you need to do for safety. Having everything you can on hand as well as tools and bonding materials will really speed things up. Post some pics of items on the list and the forum can give good advise and ideas. Plan the work carefully below the waterline and you can get a lot of the above the waterline work done ahead of the haul out.

Dave Neptune

[WillJ]

Serial Number

I know this subject is like beating a dead horse, but I cannot find a serial # anywhere. I found the date stamp (10 9 67) and the UJ 1 mark
on the carb side. According to the year the serial number should be at/above the starter motor but I’ll be damned if I can find it. I pulled the starter and went over the side of the lock with a soft wire brush, a flashlight and a camera for closeups of areas that I couldn’t see otherwise.
Does anyone have any pictures or advice on the size and or exact location of the stamped #s??

[Dave Neptune]

The numbers are "stamped" into the block so it really needs to be cleaned of all rust. Stamped numbers are often easier to see with a light sanding once cleaned and they could be rusted away.
Upper left hand side of the block on the ign side and/or at the oil filler on the block. Numbers are usually stamped on a raised embossment on most engines I have noted, I don't actually remember if the A-4 utilized such an embossment or just a machined smooth area for the stamping.

Dave Neptune

[hanleyclifford]

Try looking at the base of the block near where it joins the oil pan on the manifold side of the engine close to the flywheel housing.

[WillJ]

From what I understand the #s for a 1967 A4 should be on the “right, forward side of the block above the starter motor”. After 1968 the #s should be on the block above the flywheel housing. They’re definitely not there on this engine. If anyone has a picture of where the #s should be located above the starter that might help me focus on the right spot. I’ve cleaned , lightly sanded and wiped the whole area from the alternator bracket to the front corner of the block from the top of the block to below where the starter is when installed. I’m going cross eyed searching the same area over and over with a spotlight