Unseizing techniques

[Dave Neptune]

Exhaust

Raymond, after looking at your pics I do have a bit of advise. If you do replace the exhaust I would recomend that you fabricate it so that the water is injected into the exhaust stream a bit lower if at all possible.
When you mentioned shaving were you refering to flakes off the hot section? If so it is pretty normal for iron or galvanized pipe. What you can't see is what you need to check on. Have you lost power? Elevated back presure is a common cause if he exhaust is more than 4~5 years old. The exhaust can really plug up on the inside.

Dave Neptune

[Raymond]

Thanks, Dave.

Yes, the shavings are flakes off the hot section, they can be seen in the first photo. I haven't lost any power, she runs good. The exhaust is much older than 5 years. I now realize the importance of a maintenance log, which I have not kept. So, from memory, I think that I changed a part of the exhaust over 12 years ago. Don't ask me when. Most of it is 35 years old.

I don't think that the water could be injected much lower because of where the inlet to the muffler is. I was not thinking about replacing the muffler. That is why I was considering the t-type fitting.

Thanks again, Raymond

[sastanley]

Raymond...I also have a C-30. I cannot see your pics at work, but I should be able to review them at home.

In early 2009, I replaced the entire exhaust from the manifold to the transom exit fitting (except for the Moyer water injection piece & muffler) - I will have some comments for you later..one I have now is that my hose was in bad shape on my '77 boat when I replaced it...it was the worst on the exit side of the muffler & the wire was starting to 'spring out' of the hose wall..how's yours looking?

[Raymond]

Thanks, Shawn,

I have not looked at the other side of the muffler. I'll do that on my next trip to the boat.

Raymond

[keelcooler]

Raymond, It would appear you are one lucky fellow. Running that exhaust for over five years with no back flooding or stuck valve issues.

Your exhaust has no riser, no vented loop and no elevation between mixer and water trap inlet.

During your rework you should consider black iron pipe 10” riser loop, MMI vertical mixer 6” below the loop and 6” above the water lift inlet. Your water lift looks like a large sheet metal Onan or Koler generator water trap. A small fiberglass or non ferrous stainless will give you a little more safety drop. With the top of the engine at or below water line you want to install a vented loop anti siphon fitting.

[ArtJ]

Raymond The visible plastic in line polishing filter should be replaced with a metal one
for safety and CG as well as insurance rules.

Regards

[ndutton]

Raymond,

I think the rust pile is probably from the screen cage Catalina placed under the exhaust wrap. The concentration in one place was likely because that's where the wrap ended. A remnant of the screen can be seen in the last picture.

Regarding your exhaust rebuild, be sure to read this thread thoroughly
Catalina 30 Exhaust
starting at post #4. Same boat, same engine, same clearance challenges, nice result.

[Raymond]

Happy new year to all!

First of all, let me apologize for being so rude. I don’t know much about a lot of this computer stuff and forums except that they contain a lot of good info. So, I jumped in and shared my problems. You are real people who are a whole lot smarter than me, so let me introduce myself. I’m retired and live in Bay City, MI. I don’t go down to Micky D’s every morning and join the old codgers there for coffee. I put the coffee on here at home and sit and read the forum. I have owned my Catalina 30, Spray, hull number 120, since she was new in 1975. She still has the original A4. I don’t know as much about it (the A4) as this brain trust because it has run so well I haven’t had to do any major work on it. (Knock on wood). Last winter I rebuilt the carb. Several years ago I converted to electronic ignition and replaced the spark plug wires. Other than that, I change the oil regularly, the plugs periodically, and the water pump impeller periodically. Recent years have me just day sailing on Saginaw Bay. I run the motor just enough to get it up to temp and get us out to the bay. When the wind is right, we’ll sail back into the dock. That only happens about once or twice a season. I have never told you until now that I’m retired or how old I am so I can’t figure out why you consider me a “senior” member.

Neil, thanks for the link to Catalina 30 Exhaust thread. That’s a great thread. It (along with other info I have found on this site) has changed my thinking of replacing the hot section with a configuration similar to the original. I was thinking that way because, what the heck, it has worked for 35 years and there is not much clearance above. Yes, Keelcooler, I guess I have been lucky. Also Neil, I had considered that the rust was from the screen cage. In that case, along with the fact that the flange bolts have yet to budge, maybe I’ll just put new wrap on for now. I assume that the new wrap wouldn’t require the screen cage.

ArtJ, thanks for the tip on the filter, I’ll have that changed before spring launch.

[Raymond]

Voila

Yes, there are advantages to living in Michigan!
Since the boat is on the hard until spring, I have plenty of time to work on projects. No, of course not, I will not have them all completed before launch. But, with this luxury, I was able to spend the last 2 months patiently trying to free the exhaust flange bolts. As Jerry suggested in another thread, “A squirt of Blaster, tap the bolts a few times, another squirt, go shop for your pipe, come back try it again. Damn! More Blaster, heat, taps... (Beer break here) ...try again.” It worked, a shot of blaster a couple times a week. I was starting to get a bit frustrated (the beer breaks were getting more frequent), but yesterday they backed out easily. So, I just ordered a new flange, water entry fitting, and the wrap kit.
Shawn, if you don’t mind, I am going to borrow your design you pictured in another thread. Is there any problem accessing the flange bolts with the elbow right at the flange?
Thanks to all,
Raymond

[sastanley]

Raymond...not really, but, I will admit I assembled that with the cabinet removed so the access was super.

I think a socket with a long extension to get you some swinging room will probably help. There seems to be lot of 'blind work' going on with various A-4 projects due to access issues.

[hanleyclifford]

The installation of that flange will be greatly simplified by changing to studs in the manifold with hex nuts to hold the flange. This relieves the casting of having to be torqued thru the threaded holes. Same principle applies for head and manifold studs.

[Raymond]

Thanks,

I discussed the studs with Ken at Moyer and he felt the bolts would be just fine so I did not order the studs.