Riser material - latest wisdom

[edwardc]

That has been my experience as well.

Bill

Mine too. I've been on two different boats when the close nipple failed and started filling the boat with exhaust and water.

[BunnyPlanet169]

OK - I'll bite....

I don't see how a close nipple is any different than, say, a 1" nipple. The thread form is the same, the ID is the same, and the picture shows failure at the thread end (or a few threads up) and a 1" nipple would have done the same.

I think we're saying the weight of the exhaust shouldn't be supported solely by a short length of thin pipe thread.

Hanley's suggestion of a street fitting makes sense, because the wall thickness is greater in a cast piece.

So is Mary's suggestion of schedule 80 nipple or pipe.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Mine too. I've been on two different boats when the close nipple failed and started filling the boat with exhaust and water.

Make that three.

Helpful boating hint of the day: When you look down below and notice the carpet is floating up off the cabin sole there is a problem. Most likely a leak somewhere.

TRUE GRIT

[Ball Racing]

I made mine from brass-bronze pipe, and it was always coming loose at the manifold threads.
Then,, I believe the second year it feel apart.
Under the wrap it was just scaled apart and looked like dirt.
Waste of time and money..

[joe_db]

There is no weight hanging on that fitting. That is strictly corrosion. I am going to come up with something better than a close nipple for my next version of this. The thread crevices can't be a good thing.

[joe_db]

In this photo the MM water injection assembly is bronze/brass and apparently has no issue being used with iron pipe. What would happen if the downstream pipe was brass* and there was a bronze elbow and hose barb at the bottom? Brass and bronze are not allowed in the hot part per ABYC, but this would be on the wet side.

* AFAIK there is no such thing as bronze pipe, only bronze fittings. It would have to be brass or iron.

[zellerj]

What is brass-bronze pipe

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc - which is not meant for sea water contact because the zinc oxidizes and then dissolves.

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin, and is good with sea water.

Don't know what brass-bronze is.

https://www.proboat.com/beware-the-brass.html

Best
Jim

[joe_db]

brass/bronze is brass or bronze. I can find bronze elbows and hose barbs, but no such thing as bronze nipples or pipe pieces I have even been able to find.

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc - which is not meant for sea water contact because the zinc oxidizes and then dissolves.

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin, and is good with sea water.

Don't know what brass-bronze is.

https://www.proboat.com/beware-the-brass.html

Best
Jim

[zialater]

Bent stainless for hot section

I just took the leaking hot section off of my C&C 30 and it looks exactly like Joe_DBs photo. Possibly even uglier.

I have a pal near me in Edgewater, MD who i asked to weld the cooling water barb to the hot section. He suggested that he could take stainless 1.25 and bend it into the same shape as my old galvanized pipe unit. It will have threads for the manifold flange and stainless barb for the muffler end and the cooling water.

It will do away with four 90 degree corners and offer up a smoother path for the exhaust gasses. It should last quite a bit longer as well. There will be no other metals other than stainless on the section.

I should get the part next week and i will post pics and prices. I expect it to run around $150 total. I will take back the galvanized pipe that I bought from Home Depot for about $55.

Cheers,

[joe_db]

Please let me know who is doing this - PM if you want. I was quoted $1500 to make one of these.
Thanks!!!!!

I just took the leaking hot section off of my C&C 30 and it looks exactly like Joe_DBs photo. Possibly even uglier.

I have a pal near me in Edgewater, MD who i asked to weld the cooling water barb to the hot section. He suggested that he could take stainless 1.25 and bend it into the same shape as my old galvanized pipe unit. It will have threads for the manifold flange and stainless barb for the muffler end and the cooling water.

It will do away with four 90 degree corners and offer up a smoother path for the exhaust gasses. It should last quite a bit longer as well. There will be no other metals other than stainless on the section.

I should get the part next week and i will post pics and prices. I expect it to run around $150 total. I will take back the galvanized pipe that I bought from Home Depot for about $55.

Cheers,

[Administrator]

I wonder if Midas or someone similar could do the bends. It's not hard to find custom shops online that would appear capable as well.

Bill

[zialater]

Bent stainless for exhaust riser

I PM'd you the guys phone number Joe -

I am out of town for a week but looking forward to getting my riser when I return.

Cheers,

[joe_db]

[hanleyclifford]

I wonder if Midas or someone similar could do the bends. It's not hard to find custom shops online that would appear capable as well.

Bill

Any muffler shop could do the bends if you brought them a pattern to duplicate. I'm not convinced that stainless is a good idea in this application. Stainless does not like the anaerobic environment in the presence of salt water, and that is exactly what you will get if you wrap the hot section.

[BunnyPlanet169]

Any muffler shop could do the bends if you brought them a pattern to duplicate. I'm not convinced that stainless is a good idea in this application. Stainless does not like the anaerobic environment in the presence of salt water, and that is exactly what you will get if you wrap the hot section.

At what wall thickness? Muffler shops can do thin wall, but I would want something a little stronger.... 1.25" schedule 40 pipe has a 0.140" wall, schedule 80 is 0.190". That's structural tubing.

I don't see how the hot section would be anything other than dry and well baked. Not sure I agree with the likelihood of anaerobic conditions which would presume it's always wet....

For $18.00, you can buy a 2" long, schedule 80, 316 stainless pipe nipple from McMaster Carr and call it a day.... $150 - $200 and you've got the whole thing in thick wall 316 SS.

Mary - do you have pictures?