Electric FWC questions on early model motor

[ndutton]

Please know that both the Thatch mod and sideplate hole enlargement for electric FWC are preferred based on speculation only. We think they're better, make sense to us and those with them report no problems.

[hanleyclifford]

Please know that both the Thatch mod and sideplate hole enlargement for electric FWC are preferred based on speculation only. We think they're better, make sense to us and those with them report no problems.

Nein, please upgrade that to tested and true.

[sastanley]

SFL, even if my boat is 6 hours away, I'd make the trip to winterize..but that is just me. I certainly understand we all have individual circumstances, and if I could not get to the boat for winterizing, I'd recommend the same as Hanley.

Where we live in the mid-Atlantic, pink RV antifreeze is acceptable. We've had a couple times with temps down to 5 - 6°F this winter, and 15°F forecasted tonight which is quite cold for our area in late Feburary. Use the antifreeze recommended where you are..As Hanley noted, the green stuff gives better protection, and I think has a lower freeze point when mixed with water as opposed to full strength, unlike RV antifreeze.

In theory, with green antifreeze in the engine routed for FWC, yes, the only concern is the raw water cooled side of the circuit for winter (water pump & HX)

BTW - I think Moyer sells fittings that go on the top of the head & manifold for early model engines to replace that cast crossover fitting and allow hoses which could accommodate your own customized "Thatch mod".

Also, Neil is being conservative and rightly so, none of us want to state anything as gospel..However, some of us are experimenting, and I am sold on the side plate enlargement. I have my side plate at 1/2" NPT and have employed the Thatch mod on my late model engine, which I recently converted to FWC with the electric circulation pump. It works OK for me.

[ndutton]

I am unaware of any real before and after testing with measured results, only general consensus. If it has been done and I missed it, apologies. Can you refer a thread??

[hanleyclifford]

I am unaware of any real before and after testing with measured results, only general consensus. If it has been done and I missed it, apologies. Can you refer a thread??

Hundreds of engine hours with the Thatch Modification and enhanced flow modifications with trouble free and steady cooling - that's my testing.

[ndutton]

OK, I understand you're trouble free, so am I but that's not really measurable proof the Thatch mod is significantly superior to the factory original configuration. Like many here I believe it is but as far as I know, nobody has really measured the improvement and frankly, I don't know how to go about measuring it. Maybe IR non contact temp measurements of the manifold before and after the mod without any other changes??

That's all I was really trying to say. When we were working in the EI/resistor solution we actually measured the drop in coil temperature after installing a resistor. Development of the tensioner involved belt tension measurements to meet the Lycoming standard, stuff like that.

[hanleyclifford]

I think there are some things that do not lend themselves to quantitative testing, at least in the short run. The Thatch Modification just makes good theoretical sense especially for engines with any kind of angle - and it costs nothing. The value of coolant velocity is the same. Maybe we don't get to know such things except in observing the longevity and performance of our engines. Not scientific to be sure but I just cannot stop myself from trying new ideas.

[joe_db]

The cooling mods are almost untestable with equipment you would have on hand. You would have to put temp and flow sensors inside the engine to really see what is going on.

[sail_flathead_lake]

Guys - thanks again for all the input. It turns out it may be a moot point to begin with. I just read in Tom's instructions that the FWC electric version isn't recommended for installations with a hot water heater in the loop, and we're planning on adding one of those next season, so it looks like I may have to get another mechanical pump shoe-horned in there somehow.

[romantic comedy]

sounds like you made a decision.

What are the specifics as to why you cant put a pump on the fly wheel PTO or the accessory drive?

[ndutton]

Whoa - whoa - whoa

I just read in [Indigo's] instructions that the FWC electric version isn't recommended for installations with a hot water heater in the loop

I'd sure like to know why not. I have a water heater in mine a considerable distance away using the exact same pump with no problems at all.

[hanleyclifford]

Could be a little CYA action going on there, Neil; I agree the pump can handle the heater just fine if the system is set up for smooth flow. The acc drive option is still there but I don't like it with a big alternator.

[ndutton]

Could be a little CYA action going on there, Neil

Tom Stevens is a pretty good thinker so I'd like to know exactly what his reservations are. It would be entirely out of line for me to inquire as I'm not a customer and therefore deserve zero of his time.

Either I've overlooked something or I can debunk the concerns. The bottom line is mine's electric, has a water heater in the loop and has worked well for years.

[romantic comedy]

I moved the alternator to the flywheel PTO, so I could run a 100 amp via a half inch belt. Then I mounted the seawater pump at the acc drive.

Still wonder why he cant have a mechanical pump

[ndutton]

As I recall he has a Ranger 33, no room at the flywheel for a PTO and prefers not to add a pump to the auxiliary drive with the alternator already there. Sounds like the aux drive question might be revisited though.

SFL,
Is there any option of making new steps to give you some flywheel room?

Worthless trivia:
In the 70's actor and comedian Dick Van Dyke owned a Ranger 33. Got a chance to meet him during a plant tour.