Season Start Up Blues

[vabiker23518]

My York River based S/V MERLION, started right up yesterday and ran strong...for 25 seconds.

Background, I winterized last fall with RV antifreeze and generous MMO in cylinders. Also added MMO and STABIL to the fuel. Prior to starting yesterday, I drained off the RACOR filter, no water present and some minor rust, trash etc came out too. I opened the fuel line at the carb to ensure the electric pump and polishing filter were working...got good fuel flow at the carb. I also opened the fuel shut off at the tank. I cleaned out the carb last season and it had less than 10 hours on it. Was running fine at end of season.

I'm assuming the problem is old/bad fuel. Sure stinks! Any other thoughts?

[Mo]

Hi,

It sure sounds like it ran out of fuel. But just to be sure....

- Check for spark....I'd actually do this first...it's only takes a minute and can save you allot of time if that is the problem.

- If you have spark I would then..- Check for gas in carb. Dirt could have plugged the main jet...very possible. You might want to run the pump and pump some gas into a container to remove any air lock that may have occurred with pulling the filter off.

A few other things you could check.

-Try pulling the plugs. The plugs could be fouled.
- Long Shot...Also have a look and see if any plugs look wet from water. Might still have a water bubble on it or look significantly cleaner. If there is a sign of water on the plugs check the exhaust manifold for a leak...sometimes the engine will run until water floods into the top of the cylinders from a frost fractured exhaust manifold....again, your plugs will be a good indicator on that.

Good luck....she will run, she just doesn't know it yet!!

[BryanLee]

Sounds similar to the issue I just had, but not exactly, not likely to be your problem, but I will relay it here anyway just in case..

First startup this spring, engine started up and idled fine. Just needing to turn the boat around for cleaning, I pulled away from the dock. Just as I cleared the docks, the engine died. I was able to get back in by pumping the priming bulb, starting the engine, getting 5 seconds of power from it and then costing along while I did the process again. (Being by myself, this was quite interesting)

After much investigation I found that if I pumped the priming bulb it would fill up, but if I did not touch anything for 30 seconds or so, it would be soft again and I would have to pump it up again.

After much messing around I finally found an air leak at the fitting on the tank. Sealed it up again, and all was fine.

Seems like it could be similar since the bulb could draw fuel, but the suction would not hold. Could it be similar using the pump, when it is pumping away not hooked to the carb it can pump fast enough to produce a flow, but then the suction is lost, and when it needs a little more fuel for the carb, it has to refill the lines, which takes to long?

I do like having a priming bulb in line for testing things like this, I have found it very useful.

Good luck,
Bryan

[vabiker23518]

Status Update

Went back to boat yesterday and drained to old gas and added new, fresh gas. Drained the Racor, and there was some debris in there. Checked the electric fuel pump was operating properly. After this reconnected and started.
The basic problem of running for a period and then stopping continued. Removed the carburator and cleaned it out. Some debris but not bad. Reinstalled. Ran better but still not right. Removed it again and took home to do a better clean job.
Question: I have the PVC kit installed, and noticed there was only one gasket installed between the carb and manifold...I think there should be two gaskets, one on either side of the pvc ring that fits between the carb and manifold. Thinking this is causing a small air leak. Any thoughts?

[edwardc]

You should definitely have gaskets on both sides of the spacer.
Even a small leak will cause problems.

When cleaning the carb, be sure to run something through all the jets and the
needle valve seat. Carb cleaner and compressed air alone won't do it.
I like to use the tip cleaner for a welding torch.

[vabiker23518]

Good News

After cleaning the carb at home, and installing a new needle valve and seat and a couple gaskets from Moyer, I took it back to MERLION after work yesterday. After installation, touched the key for the electric fuel pump to fill...after a few seconds, turned the key and the A4 came to life! Ran smooth with no further adjustments required! Ran it up to temp pier side, and then cooled her down prior to shut down. Welcome 2011 season!

[wlevin]

Too much Marvel?

Before starting our A4 today for the first time since last fall I found the oil level fine, but the oil looked quite red on a paper towel. I must have put at least a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in last Fall for layup. I started the engine (went just fine) and ran it for a few minutes.
My question is whether it is bad for the engine to run it with such a high concentration of Mystery Oil. Or should I pump out the oil/Mystery Oil that is in it now and replace with 4 quarts of 30 Weight before launching?
Bill and Jeanne
T34C #453
Otter

[hanleyclifford]

Since the oil has been in the engine all winter I would change it. Run it for an hour to get fully heated up and all the junk into suspension in the oil, then drain it hot. If the oil will not sustain 20 psi at 1000 rpm, stop and drain right away.