Hi all, back again trying to sort out this problem. Quick rehash; had my engine shut down, figured it needed a tune up as had no spark and plugs and rotor were bad looking. Replaced plugs, cap, rotor. Wires looked newer in ok shape and being broke opted to go without atm. Also replaced coil.. After replacing these parts engine fired right up and ran 20 minutes or so. Next day started and ran 5 minutes, shut off. no start, no spark. Engine is a '72. Switched to electronic ignition.. Any thought or direction would be appreciated.
No spark
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Please read this thread in its entirety.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostDid you check for voltage at the "+" terminal on the coil?
Did you turn the ignition key off after the "20 minute" run or did it die?
Did you possibly leave the key on at any time?
Dave Neptune
So there is voltage at the coil +.My battery is a little low right now as I tested it but only got 10.5v at the coil,, battery is at 11.8.
After the 20 min run I shut it off with the key. Next am ran for 5 minutes than quit. The key hasn't been left on.
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Originally posted by hanleyclifford View PostI could bet the farm you fried that coil. EI will kill an unprotected coil way faster than points ignition. Voltage at coil+ must be held between 10 and 12 volts unless you have the Moyer coil. If not, get a resistor in front of the coil.
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Originally posted by stranded-sailor View PostHi all, sorry not to be right back to you on here, been dealing with some boat problems.
So there is voltage at the coil +.My battery is a little low right now as I tested it but only got 10.5v at the coil,, battery is at 11.8.
After the 20 min run I shut it off with the key. Next am ran for 5 minutes than quit. The key hasn't been left on.
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Hi all. I've found a napa ic14 coil i can get but the parts store here in Canada aren't real smart and he can't even tell me the resistance in this coil. Does any one know if and what size resistor I would need plz? I've tried looking it up but my internet is so bad its taking me 5 minutes just to get a post to upload
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It is hard to find idiot proof parts stores so you usually have to assume the worst. It might be necessary to buy a resistor to put in front of the coil. If the engine will not start with the resistor in line that could mean the coil already has sufficient internal resistance. This is the hard way to do it but it is idiot proof. Descriptions of parts online seldom include the truly useful information. Put your voltmeter on coil+ so in the event the engine starts you will have a good voltage reading right away, The other option is to spring for the Moyer coil which has it's own internal resistor.Last edited by hanleyclifford; 12-04-2023, 10:45 AM.
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If the coil is for a four cylinder engine you should be OK. I used a coil off of an old VW for quite a few year with an EI I adapted to my A-4 before they became available for the A-4. A 6 or 8 cylinder coil will not last as long because they are designed for shorter saturation times. Get a resistor and a 4 cylinder coil then check the voltage at the positive post of the coil after the engine has run for a bit so the alternator is not charging heavily IE the batteries are charged and output is just maintaining voltage.
As long as the coil does not see much over 12.5 volts pretty much any 12v coil will work.
Best bet is just get the coil and resister from our host and be done with it. And do remember to keep the key OFF when not running or after diagnosing if you need to turn the engine. When I am working on an engine and need to turn it over I always disconnect the coil positive side.
Dave Neptune
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Originally posted by stranded-sailor View PostHi all. I've found a napa ic14 coil i can get but the parts store here in Canada aren't real smart and he can't even tell me the resistance in this coil. Does any one know if and what size resistor I would need plz? I've tried looking it up but my internet is so bad its taking me 5 minutes just to get a post to upload
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You recall correctly Sam.
Be careful not to get myopic about coil resistance or system voltage alone. As explained in the Pertronix treatment I recently posted, they work in tandem and their quotient is critical to a reliable electronic ignition system.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostIf the coil is for a four cylinder engine you should be OK. I used a coil off of an old VW for quite a few year with an EI I adapted to my A-4 before they became available for the A-4. A 6 or 8 cylinder coil will not last as long because they are designed for shorter saturation times. Get a resistor and a 4 cylinder coil then check the voltage at the positive post of the coil after the engine has run for a bit so the alternator is not charging heavily IE the batteries are charged and output is just maintaining voltage.
As long as the coil does not see much over 12.5 volts pretty much any 12v coil will work.
Best bet is just get the coil and resister from our host and be done with it. And do remember to keep the key OFF when not running or after diagnosing if you need to turn the engine. When I am working on an engine and need to turn it over I always disconnect the coil positive side.
Dave Neptune
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Maybe this or similar?
I think this is what the local shop gave me. Mine has been working fine for years, but read the reviews, seems like maybe they shifted to China and the newest ones haven't been as good?
* I feel your pain with customs, all my canvas is from Genco in Toronto and it went back and forth a few times for alterations and both countries kept trying to charge me duty both waysJoe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Maryland USA
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