Oil Return: Oil Filter

[marthur]

I have a way cool thing on my early model spare motor: the old style oil change pump. And I have a working spare for this rare item that I would like to put on the (late model) motor in my boat. For those of you unfamiliar with this thing, it is a permanently mounted oil extraction pump mounted on the port side of the motor under the fuel pump. Most of these items are lost to the ravages of time (dried seals, etc...) but through some miracle of long term storage both of mine work great!

But here is the question: If I wish to use the oil port on the port side of the engine for an the old style oil change pump, where can I run my Indigo Oil Filter return line? The old style oil pump goes into that port and so does the oil return line for the Oil Filter.

Could I drill and tap a fitting into my reversing gear cover? Valve cover plate? Any ideas or am I stuck with two cool things and only one place to put them?

[Mark Millbauer]

Have you already done the Kaminski modification? If so, since it's just returning the oil, I'm sure one could rig something up by adapting the pipe plug use to access the reversing band bolt.

Mark

[hanleyclifford]

If you have deleted your mechanical fuel pump, the push rod hole is handy and tappable:

[marthur]

If you have deleted your mechanical fuel pump

Nope! I am a mechanical pump man through and through. I know there are advantages either way, but I like the simplicity and reliability of the mechanical pump. However, I am beginning to think this is something like Coke vs Pepsi, who you marry or anchor choice. Not totally commanded by the rational part of our brains.

[marthur]

Have you already done the Kaminski modification?

Not yet but this is a good idea. My question is then about the oil squirting in at that point. Is there any disadvantage to it? I assume that all of the reversing gear components are bathed in oil anyway. Would the additional oil spraying in make the reversing band or forward mechanism more like to slip?

[Mark Millbauer]

I wondered about the reversing band too when I suggested the Kaminski idea. You might want tho tap (pun?) Don's brain on that one. The reversing gear cover or even the aft end of the valve cover could work. You can even weld a fitting on to them if need be and they are easily and inexpensively replaceable if things don't work out.

[Dave Neptune]

Mine works

Mike,when I installed my "bypass type filter I plumbed the return to the gear case cover. The oil drops down on top of the drum, never been a problem. Now I don't have the volume of flow however it is easy access to the "pan" which is where you want it anyway. On the plus side it can be easily removed for tapping and no chips in the pan.

Dave Neptune

[marthur]

Thanks Dave, that is what I wanted to know

[edwardc]

I have the Indigo filter system's return installed in the side pan oil port, with a tee in the line. The tee connects to a ball valve, and I attach my portable suction pump to the other side of the valve. Open the valve and suck the oil out. Seems to work great, and I get the best of both worlds.

I guess it works because my suction pump doesn't generate a pressure differential anywhere near the oil pressure regulator's setpoint, so it never opens, and all the oil comes from the return side.

[Sony2000]

To build an oil fiter system from scratch, would this work?
Below the port to the valves there are three 1/8 npt holes tapped directly into the oil line of the block. Front, middle and rear. The one in the middle, behind the carb goes generally unused. So running a line, the size of the scavenge tube, to a small oil filter, then on to the block, shoud be all that the Atomic 4 needs to filter out years of contaninates.

[hanleyclifford]

To build an oil fiter system from scratch, would this work?
Below the port to the valves there are three 1/8 npt holes tapped directly into the oil line of the block. Front, middle and rear. The one in the middle, behind the carb goes generally unused. So running a line, the size of the scavenge tube, to a small oil filter, then on to the block, shoud be all that the Atomic 4 needs to filter out years of contaninates.

That would work but a relief valve would still be needed to maintain oil pressure.

[Sony2000]

The small tube take off, ressistance from the weave of the filter, and possibly some oil pressure adjustment, maybe all that is required. Even if I loose a couple of pounds pressure, I would be in a good range. I have a universal unit that would accept a number of automotive filters. Diameter and thread size are only the requirements.
Moyer Marine could put together something, and sell it from in house, with or without, a regulator/relief/check valve.

[ndutton]

Sony,

I'm a big fan of innovative thinking and you never know when one idea will lead to another and perhaps to a viable product. You just never know. I'd suggest when considering A-4 oil filtration, consider what would make a better mousetrap either in terms of design, price or both in comparison to the already available product.

For example - and this is no joke - who remembers the Frantz Oil Filter system that used toilet paper rolls for filter elements? The first one I saw was in the 60's. I'm not saying it's good, bad or somewhere in between but here's a case of someone thinking unconventionally. They're still around, even make a marine unit although I'd say they're pretty proud of it ($$$).

http://www.frantzoil.com/home.html

[Sony2000]

Yes, toilet paper works, even thought of all the paper towels, it is the one that is designed to fall apart in the sewer! Best to try Bounty.
Getting back to the filter, the return oil flow could enter the block through the little used sump access just below the 1/8 npt.
Well, now I have a project for next winter.

[Dave Neptune]

Filters

Those Frantz filters worked pretty good, I had one on my first carr a 56' slide window Parklane Wagon. It kept the 292's engine oil "clear" even when ready to change, until I dropped in a "supercharged 406"~yeah baby!. Note the Frantz units were a "bypass" type and Fram makes a nice one too. I have used the Fram F-4 unit on my A-4 for well over 20 years now and I have seen a couple others in pics on this site and on many small marine engines including diesels. There are two types of filter available and I use the "finer" "P" type.
Sony, the bypass type is not a "full flow" and "bleeds" through a tiny orifice so as not to reduce the oil preassure "much". When I hooked mine up and re-lit the beastie I could barely notice the drop on my gage and did not compinsate by adjusting~it's been over 20 years!! My oil stays clear all season so I change when it smells usually at the "END" of the season so she sits in clean oil for her down time snooze.

Dave Neptune