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A few weeks ago I was slipping in fwd so I tightened a couple of notches. Now neutral has a bit of fwd in it. I'm assuming I should back off a notch?
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"Halcyon" 36' custom sloop. 8 tons. Glass over strip plank mahoghany. Spruce mast and booms, launched 1969. Original A4. -
If the forward indent goes in solid and without too much force you may have it right...especially if it was slipping. Now try your reverse and see if it's working OK and engages properly. There are times when an adjustment is needed on there reverse nut as well after adjusting the forward.
Keep in mind:
-there is such a thing as forward too tight..should not have to force into forward...should feel like shifting a manual transmission in a 1 ton truck with engine off and no clutch engaged...little bit of pressure and thump, it's in.
-you may want to disconnect the shifter cable from the gear box lever and move the lever to neutral. You may have a small neutral there and it may be difficult to hit it with play in shifting cables /handle etc.
-adjust forward, check and adjust reverse as required. Then you should have a small neutral.Last edited by Mo; 03-18-2014, 08:05 AM.Mo
"Odyssey"
1976 C&C 30 MKI
The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward. -
[QUOTE=Mo; "If the forward indent goes in solid and without too much force you may have it right...especially if it was slipping. "
I was able to get two notches so I did. Changing requires mild force, I'm guessing I'll back off.
"You may have a small neutral there and it may be difficult to hit it with play in shifting cables /handle etc."
no issue with cables, its all 3/8 rod. He built it right
"Halcyon" 36' custom sloop. 8 tons. Glass over strip plank mahoghany. Spruce mast and booms, launched 1969. Original A4.Comment
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Even with rigid rod linkage it is still a good idea to disconnect right at the lever and make your adjustments. You can get a better feel for where things are. The forward should be adjusted to minimum tightness that will still stay in forward without slippage. The reverse band should also be set as loose as possible such that when you pull back on the lever you get reverse without slipping. This will yield for you the longest "throw" in which neutral wll exist. In this application tighter is not better.Comment
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It sound like you can go into forward, and reverse. On your shifter there is a little ball that clicks into a half hole. This tells you where neutral is. If you don't hear, or feel the click, your little ball has worn, and fallen out. You can buy these at a hardware store. Take the shift handle with you so you get the size right. (If this is the problem you're having.)Originally posted by HalcyonS View PostComment
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No need to, if it doesn't bother you. My P30 always turned her prop slowly in neutral. I could easily stop it when I wanted by pushing the shifter slightly toward reverse.Originally posted by HalcyonS View PostJeff Taylor
Baltic 38DPComment
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" I could easily stop it when I wanted by pushing the shifter slightly toward reverse. "
I discovered this also. Neutral is no longer with shifter vertical but about 10 deg aft. ie just before engagement in reverse."Halcyon" 36' custom sloop. 8 tons. Glass over strip plank mahoghany. Spruce mast and booms, launched 1969. Original A4.Comment
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+1Originally posted by HalcyonS View Post
As I posted in another thread neutral position was drifting more and more towards reverse. I got so frustrated trying to adjust I cut some more threads on the solid part of the shift cable so I could get more adjustment.
Neutral moved from about 10:00 to about 11:30 and has stabilized there. I've learned to live with it.
Is there something that wears or breaks in in the tranny? Or am I just "lucky?" Maybe some of the tranny experts will comment.
TRUE GRITComment
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