Engine not running under load solved - but now there is some kind of knock

[JOHN COOKSON]

Is there a counselling thread somewhere????
[Needy
Elizabeth B_29

Yes, this is it.

TRUE GRIT

[Dave Neptune]

over oil in mine

Elizabeth, my engine sits at a very steep angle so the back of the pan is close to parallel to the water line. I have always run mine at what would be just under quart TOO FULL. When I get to the "full" line I add a halfg qt or more after 40~50 hours. No problems or leaks in over 30 years now.

Dave Neptune

[Elizabeth_B29]

Timing and oil

So tell me about the clamp under the distributer, not the hold down clamp.
SHould I loosen this clamp and the hold down clamp. I think I should to get more travel when adjusting the timing.
Can the distributer spin and wind up the plug wires and wiring if too loose?

Thanks for oil recommendation. Will take a look for it.

Cheers!

Elizabeth

[Elizabeth_B29]

Oil full line on dipstick

Elizabeth, my engine sits at a very steep angle so the back of the pan is close to parallel to the water line. I have always run mine at what would be just under quart TOO FULL. When I get to the "full" line I add a halfg qt or more after 40~50 hours. No problems or leaks in over 30 years now.

Dave Neptune

Ok, so the full line you are referring to is the upper most line on the dipstick?

Think I need to purchase ~5 qts 10-40 Lucas.

I am running regular non-ethanol with Stabil marine additive. THe weep at the main jet plug on a white paper towel is this weird looking brightish yellow.

Should I add Marvel MO to the gas or crankcase oil??


Cheers!

E-B29

[romantic comedy]

Elizabeth you can use any 12 v light to set timing. You could also use an ohm meter. (power off, 12 disconnected)

You are just checking and setting for when the points just begin to open.

Dave, I have always learned that high octane would burn slower. In the Atomic Four, I agree, use lower octane.

[Dave Neptune]

& burn rates

romantic, yes indeed the higher octane does burn slower. And with such low compression we want a burn and not a "pop" due to to much timing. Also the vaporizing of the fuel is more consistent when the octane and compression are matched in there smooth burn zones. It is a combination of factors that make for a good burn in an expanding chamber and atmosphere.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

2 clamps

Elizabeth, two clamps?? I have only seen one on mine a late model.
You can leave the dist clamp snug and bump it with a stick on the cap and the palm of your hand for fine tuning. I get mine to where I can rotate it by hand and then go out to set the timing. I have not left it loose enough to spin a bit. Before it spun much the engine would probably die anyway.

Dave Neptune

[hanleyclifford]

Elizabeth - You have probably not heard me say this so I'll do it again; there is absolutely no substitute for a strobe timing light to ensure that your initial timing is set correctly and to ensure that your centrifugal advance is functioning on specification. They are cheap and readily available at your local boutique. As for the oil change, here is a suggestion; try using 15w-40 heavy oil (usually used in diesels). It just might quiet that knock.

[Elizabeth_B29]

Ooooh thanks for the oil tip

Hanley,
I am in FLorida and it gets quite hot. Do you think the multi vis oil will be heavy enough then? I mean it gets too hot to touch any metal fittings here in the summer.

I do have a timing light, but I am freshwater cooled so can't get to the roll pin and accurate TDC... or well the reality is I am unwilling to take off the sheave on the end of the shaft for the pump belt. I guess I could make a white mark on the pump sheave and see if it advances huh? How do I hook it up with electronic ignition?

I ordered an accessory drive gasket and valve cover gasket. Will do the test and try to figure out if it is timing or acc. drive. Don't think it is a main bearing but gaads what a thought after getting this engine running snd adding all the Moyer bells and whistles. I do have a spare raw water cooled "Moyerized" block engine I have been salvaging parts from. Plan to pull the accessory drive if needed and send the rattly one in for Moyer upgrade.

Cheers!

Elizabeth

[Elizabeth_B29]

Distributer clamp and hold down

Elizabeth, two clamps?? I have only seen one on mine a late model.
You can leave the dist clamp snug and bump it with a stick on the cap and the palm of your hand for fine tuning. I get mine to where I can rotate it by hand and then go out to set the timing. I have not left it loose enough to spin a bit. Before it spun much the engine would probably die anyway.

Dave Neptune

Oops maybe I should have said one clamp and one hold down. I have an early model and both distributers I have have this setup.

Should I shoot a photo?

Elizabeth

[HOTFLASH]

Main Jet Leakage-tiny o ring mush another possible cause

Elizabeth,

In addition to the fiber washer where the fitting meets the carb, there is also a tiny O ring inside the adjustable main jet--(I am talking the MM upgrade with a T handle). My little O got gooey, mushy and basically disintegrated, I bet due to E10. Am talking with MM to gets some spares or at least the specs so I can get some locally. No wonder I was having trouble at the end of last season!

Mary

[Elizabeth_B29]

O ring mushy - alternate o ring compounds

Elizabeth,

In addition to the fiber washer where the fitting meets the carb, there is also a tiny O ring inside the adjustable main jet--(I am talking the MM upgrade with a T handle). My little O got gooey, mushy and basically disintegrated, I bet due to E10. Am talking with MM to gets some spares or at least the specs so I can get some locally. No wonder I was having trouble at the end of last season!

Mary

Thanks Mary, I don't have the adjustable main jet (yet).
I do know from other experience that there are many different compounds for o rings. Not sure which are ethanol resistant. I do know that buna is not petro resistant where Viton is....possibly there is a "rubber" compound for ethanol gas.

I have been successful in locating gas recently that is ethanol free.
Maybe it is now available in your area. Good luck!

CHeers!

Elizabeth

[Elizabeth_B29]

Knock, Rattle and Roll

Well hello Afourians,
Tonight changed out the oil with (Rotella diesel) oil as Hanley suggested...and why is it so much less expensive than oil for gasoline engines??? and is rated for both diesel and gas. cool find...The oil was pretty dirty.

Timed carefully and she starts the second I push the starter. Yes I did have to loosen the clamp to allow the distributer to rotate and then tighten the clamp and then tighten the hold down ( Idles great, runs great under load. Can hear tappets ticking like in a BMW motorcycle engine, too loose or OK?

But, here is the caveot.
The rattle or knock still there at certain RPM ranges and it stops when I remove #1 plug wire. I know this isn't good news. So it isn't the accessory drive or the alternator bearing.

Just break it to me gently. Is my top end trash? or can I recover with one of Don's videos, parts and a torque wrench or Marvel mystery oil???

Compression check next......stuck valve????

Dejected,

Elizabeth of B_29

[joe_db]

Hate to be a downer, but a rod bearing is another possibility
This cannot be changed in the boat.

[ndutton]

A compression test may indicate a rod bearing problem. I said may, the indication will be subtle.

I'm working on a spare engine. It ran when I got it but had a deep, sickening knock. By sound alone I was sure it was a rod bearing noise but before I tore things down I performed a compression test; 3@ 105, 1@ 85. Guess which cylinder was suspect? I removed the head and turned the engine over by hand. I could see the suspect piston did not reach the top of the cylinder like the others. Measuring showed the travel deficit was 1/8" and it's movement lagged behind the adjacent cylinder slightly. Taking the bottom end apart I found NO bearing in the suspect journal.

Bottom line, the piston didn't travel as far up in the cylinder due to the missing bearing and resulted in less compression. If we can expect it to have been the same as the other cylinders the completely absent bearing = 1/4" less travel (1/8" at the top and 1/8" at the bottom) = 20 PSI less compression.

A stuck valve will show a much greater loss of compression.

If it were me, before I started planning the removal of the engine:

1. I'd run the engine with the alternator belt removed and see if the noise disappears. It's a long shot but where's the harm in trying? Easy test to do.
2. Compression test for the reasons mentioned above. May point you in a direction. Also easy to do.
3. Remove the valve cover and carefully examine the valve springs and valve movement for anything unusual.