Originally posted by ndutton
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Drive train noise, stuffing box leak, etc
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Cool. Spend some time on the internet to read up on the process like three separate flax rings, joints 120° apart, different types of flax (I've been very pleased with the teflon impregnated flax).
Be sure to use the proper size too. I recommend removing one ring of the old flax and take it with you to buy the replacement. You can reattach the stuffing box with the remaining two rings to check the water inflow while you're away shopping. You'll ship water aboard during the process (a temporary wrap of tape really helps) but it's not much.
When reassembling the stuffing box, start out loose and slowly tighten to your preferred drip rate. No long sleeves when working around a turning shaft.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Reading assignment including the link roadnsky provided:
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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I repacked the stuffing box in the water. It's dripping multiple times a second at the moment because I read I am supposed to wait a while before tightening it down so that it can get water logged. I plan to motor around 4 hours tomorrow and then give it some adjustments.
As suspected, my shaft is scorched and scored. So, I'll have to replace that when I next haul it out of the water.
I'll just pretend that this problem already existed when I bought the boat -- which could be true. But there is a reason I bought a cheap (but quality) starter boat to make mistakes with.
Here is a photo of the old stuffing and the shaft. I can feel where the shaft is worn down in spots:
What are the side effects of the shaft being warn down? How do I know when it has reached an unsafe amount of wear? I am hoping to do another 650NMi of motoring before my next haul out.Last edited by LordGothington; 12-03-2018, 08:29 PM.
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You're probably correct that this has been going on for a long time but what you are seeing is the direct effect of continually tightening worn out flax attempting to manage drip. With fresh flax you'll be in better shape but do not expect to get an optimal adjustment against a scored shaft. It's gonna drip and if it doesn't you're likely too tight again. On the other hand, you risk nothing with this shaft, the damage has been done. Stuffing box temperature underway is a reliable method to monitor things. Consider 20°F above ambient water temp as the maximum allowable.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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LG if you want to continue to be really cheap you might try replacing the packing hose instead of the shaft.
The packing hose is that special wire free, super thick hose that the stuffing box is attached to. The length is arbitrary and can be changed to move the stuffing contact surface to another point on the shaft.
The change can even be done with the boat in the water depending on the access and how confident you are.
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Originally posted by romantic comedy View PostLG if you want to continue to be really cheap(????) you might try replacing the packing hose instead of the shaft.
The packing hose is that special wire free, super thick hose that the stuffing box is attached to. The length is arbitrary and can be changed to move the stuffing contact surface to another point on the shaft.
The change can even be done with the boat in the water depending on the access and how confident you are.
TRUE GRITLast edited by JOHN COOKSON; 12-06-2018, 02:28 AM.
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Originally posted by romantic comedy View PostThe length is arbitrary and can be changed to move the stuffing contact surface to another point on the shaft.
The change can even be done with the boat in the water depending on the access and how confident you are.
I've read that every time you take the coupler off the shaft you have to replace it because of the way it is fit on there? Or switch the the split coupler?
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Plan for the worst, hope for the best
The shaft needs to come out of the coupling for either hose replacement or a PSS seal. There's a better than even chance the shaft will be stuck in the coupling and stuck hard. There is a method found on this forum to press it out in situ but it risks destroying the engine output coupling in the process. Before going that far many prefer to cut the shaft between the coupling and the stuffing box and then extract the stump from the coupling with a shop press. Of course at that point you are in for a new shaft.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Originally posted by ndutton View PostOf course at that point you are in for a new shaft.
On the one hand, the PSS sounded like a good idea when I feared the stuffing box. But now that I am less fearful of it, I am more worried about the PSS. I've heard rumors it works great until it suddenly doesn't work at all.
While not comfortable, I *can* get both hands on my stuffing box. And I have gotten quite good at making the adjustments. I can even repack it in the water now
I guess I have a month to decide.
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Originally posted by LordGothington View PostHmm. Interesting idea. I am going to have the boat out of the water in a month or so anyway. I assume it is necessary to remove the shaft from the coupler so you can get the old hose off and the new hose on?
I've read that every time you take the coupler off the shaft you have to replace it because of the way it is fit on there? Or switch the the split coupler?
Also when the boat is in the yard I pull the shaft to make bottom work easier.
But if your shaft and coupling have become one you may have to steer a different course.
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Originally posted by romantic comedy View PostI take the coupling off the shaft twice a year. That would make that over 40 times with the same shaft and coupling.
Maybe *some people* are wrong. I have no first hand experience
I have no idea when this shaft and coupler were mated. At least a decade ago I'd guess.
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