Engine starts and runs fine from dock to lake, but after a few hours of sailing, it repeatedly stalls when coming in. Recently installed electric fuel pump and Racor filter. People have suggested to me either water in the fuel or crud at gas tank siphon tube opening. I emptied Racor fuel filter and didn't see any water in the fuel, but the fuel is brown.
Stalling after a day sail
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gas lines are original copper, only pump and filter are new. No fuel pressure gauge. I don't think there is a leak in gas lines because it fires up and runs fine after sitting for a few days, which is also why I don't think it's the coil. Oil pressure switch is brand new. I'll check the gas vent.
Does anyone know how to clean out the tank without removing it?
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If I had brown fuel (Oh wait...I did lol) I'd clean the tank, completely replace the fuel lines, and THEN look for your issue, if that doesn't solve it. Man I bet cleaning in place would be a pain. Too hard to get it out?My "other" Boat:
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How old is the fuel in the tank?
If you don't know then it is too old. See picture below.
Pump out the fuel as best you can into some 5 gal. fuel containers and filter a few times using a filter like this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...4&ci_sku=99869
I got about 1 gal. of ethanol/crud out of our tank this spring when I pumped out with this hand operated pump: http://www.amazon.com/Beckson-109PC-.../dp/B000KKB24I
and put the last 2 gals. into opaque bottles so the crud/h2o could fall to the bottom.
Isn't there a filter element in your Racor that could be replaced as well?Tartan 27 #328 owner born 1958
A4 and boat are from 1967
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Thanks for all the responses. I'd say the gas looks similar to that picture from CalebD. The removal of the tank would be very difficult due to space. I could pump the tank dry, but is there some solvent to put in to remove sediment at the bottom? Also, why would i want to remove the copper gas lines? They are in good condition.
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Old fuel Blues
or Brown's, or Green's.
That sediment is most likely solidified varnish. Even if you can't actually remove the fuel tank itself try at least tilting it toward the fuel pick-up and then flushing it out as best you can.
I used several gallons of white vinegar which did a good job, Acetone also works. Whatever you use be safe! The more flushing liquid you can get into the tank the better and flush as many times as you need to until you get all that crud out. Otherwise you'll just keep having fuel issues.
Your copper lines are just fine. I think the suggestion had to do with any rubber lines you may have. If your "Rubber" fuel lines haven't been replaced in a while you should strongly consider replacing them with an Ethanol Fuel rated hose.
Yeppers, we know what your going thru...Mike, Slower-Lower Eastern shore, MD
1973 Pearson 33
1967 Bristol 27
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Aside from the fuel issue, since you likely took power for your new fuel pump from your + post on your coil it is possible that disturbing the contact to your coil might be the issue. You should check to make sure that is a good clean contact to the coil.
If your coil is not fed its proper diet of current it will heat up and you will get a sudden shut down. Once it cools off you will usually be able to restart (until the coil fails completely). The wire that carries power to that post from your ignition (key) also is now carrying power for both your coil and your fuel pump so, if there was a bad contact on the coil or the IGN end, it will be be worse now.
HalfHourEarly
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+ coil connection seems good. I get great start up after boat has sat, which is why I think it's a fuel issue and not an ignition or fuel pump problem. Sometimes I go for a sail and have no issues at all coming in. The problem is greatest when I've been swimming off the boat with a crowd of people. My understanding is that whatever is settling to the bottom of the tank gets mixed in when out on the lake.
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Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View PostWhat if there was a copper fuel outlet line in an aluminum fuel tank and the tank somehow got water in it would that provide enough of an electrolyte medium for the copper to react with the aluminum?
TRUE GRIT
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I tried to remove the tank but couldn't get the brass compression fittings to budge. Would penetrating oil (e.g. PB Blaster) work? I removed all the old fuel with a hand pump and poured in 5 gallons of white vinegar. I pumped out the vinegar (which looked very brown) and sopped up the last few drops with a rag. I then put in marine fuel with some dry gas. It started up but took a little longer to warm up than usual. A friend said to make sure I examined the pick up tube, but I haven't been able budge the fittings. How important is it look at the tube?
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I'll see if I can come up with a plan.
Don't worry about the pick-up tube now. There still might be more gunk to remove from the tank. I think we need to gear up a plan for you guys in the US than have to deal with ethenol.
I have an Petroleum Eng friend who told me that:
- Imperial Oil doesn't make ethanol in Nova Scotia (where I live)
- Ethanol is made in NewBrunswick and customers are complaining of same symptoms along with decrease gas mileage.
I read somewhere that someone put carb cleaner in the tank and sloshed it around...........I will talk to Chris (Petro - engineer) and see if there is something more cost effective and easier to clean the tanks....I should run into him sometime this week.Mo
"Odyssey"
1976 C&C 30 MKI
The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward.
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I pumped a small amount of gas from the bottom of the tank and saw no crud or water in it. I started the engine, but after a few minutes, it stalled. After restart, I got this rough running action where it would rev up, then down repeatedly. It was necessary to choke it to keep it running. It was unresponsive to throttling up. Ideas?
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